now I know the FC rack limits our counter steering and i watch 240s and 86s just keep on counter steering and was wondering if a FD rack is better and if it is compatible w/ the FC?

i don't think an FD rack is swappable, and even if it was i don't think it would really help. What you can do though is to modify the pivot points on your steering knuckles. they aren't really avaible for sale yet, but they might be soon. Its something you can do yourself though if you know anything about welding and have half a brain. In doing this though you will need fender flares in the front and a lower offset wheel. This is how the BN sports car manages such an extreme slip angle.

it was just an idea

So whats the problem here? Fc steering system doesn't turn the wheels far enough?

not really a problem just that It seems that when 240s and 86s get sideways they're anble to counter more.

OK this is a problem that every car has even hachi roku's. hachi rokus use what is known as a chombu rack.......you take the GTV rack and GT knuckles and assemble it all together this gives you almost a full turn on the wheel and helps prevent spinning at extreme angles. FC, FD and all nissans get aftermarket tie rods or a spacer/washer for the tie rods to increase the angle. These can be purchased at almost every tuning shop in Japan.



As far as requiring larger fenders or any other mods I have never seen that become a requirement. Haraguchi's car (BN Sports) uses spacers on the Tie Rods.....these are sold through 326 power and URAS. I have several articles from Battle Magazine and Drift Tengoku on this if people would like to see.



There are drawbacks to this because sometimes you get into a situation where you cant easily pull the wheel back so it gets stuck at full counter and then you under or spin the other way......lol this is common on Hachi Roku's

FC's lower arm is an A arm. with stock 205 tires and rack at lock it rubs a little already. With increased rack travel the wheels will not get any more angle unless the lower A arm is notched or the off set of the wheels is moved out ward. There is little to almost no space to move the wheels out on a FC so that is why flares are needed. FCs rotate different then S13-14 and AE86 in my opinion. FC is just more on the edge with less slip angle to play with.

Hmmm I run 9J 17" wheels with a 235/40 on the front of mine and it doesn't rub anywhere and I have never seen a fc with stock wheels and tires rub at full lock.



Notching the A arm would be a bad idea. There is a lot of room to move the whels out on a FC.......granted s-13s have a little more room to work with as far as fenders......the postition of the frame rails prevent them from turning as far as one would like, causing most people to make Caster adjustments. A hachi Roku has teeny tiny fenders in stock form and just to run a 8J rim you will need to pound the fenders out.



I used stock fenders (with just a roll ) for years with a 8J rim on the front........the fenders have almost nothing to do with how far the tires will turn.

only when you hit bumps and the suspension move up an down will the fender become a problem. You can alleviate that problem by getting the right suspension and adjusting your ride hieght to a good hieght.



If you are drifting on stock tires sizes then it is an accident waiting to happen........In order to make things work you have to get good wheel sizes with the right offset and/ or run spacers to ensure that your +35 offset wheels dont rub the inside.



FC and s-13 both use a McPherson Strut design suspension.......the position of the Tie rod is different the FC........is lower and further back, almost the same position as a hachi roku. The position fo the tie rod might give different results in the way the wheels turn in and out... I don't know for sure but I can tell you that the position of them definatley puts them in a position to be broken when you race.



Do not place to much emphasis on having the wheels turn more.......if you are in a competition and your line and such is off that you are heading for a potential spin the judges will have most likley seen that already and ding your points.....it does have its advantages don't get me wrong but I think most people here are not at the level to truly benefit from this modification fully.

hyperrex and those guys are tested out the prototype modded steering knuckles right now. From what they've seen so far (parallel steering setup) it allows a greater slip angle about equal to what the S chassis and hachi guys get which was always the limiting factor before. They are finding however that with the increased steering angle if you do not move the wheels out, when tipped in they impact the sway bar at near full lock, thus the need for flared fenders.

Well I have stock 16X7 wheels with 205-55-16 and there is rubber mark on the A- arm. I know knotching A arm is silly that is why you have to off set the wheels to get more clearance inside if the rack has been modyfied. My front tires don't rub at all if just driving around, those marks came from 100mph+ drifts and bouncing off the burns on the track. I am guessing you have much better and lower side wall tires so you don.t rub even with bigger tires, but I got 55 series cheap tires so at full lock 100 mpg and bouncing around it rubs.