I'm removing my omp, and oil injectors and running premix (obviously).



My question to you guys is, what thread size and length are the oil injectors on a series 5??



I know i saw it on reTed's site before (fc3s-pro.com) but his site is down, and I don't really want to "eye" it. I'm afraid that carbon will build up in there if the bolt is too short.



I'm asking specifically about the series 5 rx7, but if someone knows the thread specs for other years, go ahead and post em up, maybe I can save someone the effort.



FYI I did a bunch of searches to no avail https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

M10x1.25x10 to 20mm. Use copper crush washers underneath all four bolts to seal.



B

whats the advantage of eliminating the OMP and using premix?

with a quality two stroke oil, you will decrease seal wear, reduce carbon build-up, and eliminate one more thing that can go wrong (it is rumored that the s5 engines didn't last nearly as long as the s4 counterparts because the electronic omp would fail, bringing your engine to a premature death.



plus it puts a big smile on my face knowing how much im helping my motor



btw, thanks bdc, im goin shoppin for them right now



Also do u know where i can find a good price on a e6k??

M10x1.25x10 to 20mm. Use copper crush washers underneath all four bolts to seal.



B [/quote]

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

rumor is not true, the ecu knows about the mop, if it doesnt like what it sees the car she no drive



mike

rumor is not true, the ecu knows about the mop, if it doesnt like what it sees the car she no drive



mike [/quote]

well it will drive like crap. unplug your MOP and find out https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

If you don't want to go and buy new bolts just cut the oil injector lines close to the injectors and call it good. It worked for me. No leaks or anything.

you sure? it might be a vacuum leak



mike

well i found bolts that would fit perfectly (m10 x 1.25 x 20) but was informed of the difference in accuracy of machine bolts, and automotive grade bolts. Long story short, the identical machine grade bolt (I could only find machine grade) doesn't fit near as tight as the oil injectors. I think I'm just going to cut the nipple off the back of the injectors and hit it w/ a spot weld, then sand to smooth. You guys think that would work well??



I was just thinking of sealing the outer part of the injector, should I weld the hole on the bottom shut as well??

from my understanding the oil injectors are just a 1 way valve, w/o the pressure from oil going into it, it would open to the atmosphere under vaccum

No problems during vacuum. I'll check with Steve Kan just to be sure that they won't. My motor went( due to old age ) and he is replacing it for me. I'll ask him tommorow and get back with you.

Steve isn't a fan of premix but I most definitely am. I don't like the factory oil metering systems (any of them) due to their dependence on these four, goofy nylon tubes known as oil injection lines. They seem to be quite fragile (especially the old factory ones) and tend to break when tugged on.



I personally promote and believe the solution to compression seal lubrication is the use of 2-stroke, outboard engine oil. A great deal of the aircraft rotary folks use 2-stroke oil in their fuel tanks. It's not unheard of to have engines lasting a substantially longer amount of time vs. 4-stroke oil metering. Combustion chamber surfaces remain much cleaner (much less carbon buildup). They also seem to run much better and smoother.



B

Kandy at Pettit pulled out a housing from an engine using the OMP and it had a nice shiney line around the middle of the housing where the engine oil was being injected. She then pulled a housing that was using premix. Nice and shiney all the way across.



I was a sceptic of pre-mix until she showed me that.



Not I am a firm believer in it. I just bought 3 gallons of Pettits Protek to mix. Up until this point I was using Amsiol.



We just put a hose nipple on the end of my injectors and clamped them off.

is it possible that a smoking engine could be caused by stuck linkage or a leaking omp on a 12a

I'm gonna say possible, but not likely. Don't have much experience with smokey motors, unless your burning out atf, then I have plenty of expereince

i have plenty of trans experience aswell

i havent seen the engne run yet im just going off what po said

and now that i think about it i will check the modulator line to see if the is a little oil in it

the trans has 160,000 miles on it and is a possible cause

thanks for getting my wheels turning

automatic flywheel bolts work very well. Your way will also work well.

from my understanding the oil injectors are just a 1 way valve, w/o the pressure from oil going into it, it would open to the atmosphere under vaccum [/quote]

they are supposed to be 1 way, but usually they arent



mike

what premix ratio are you guys using

i guessing a pint at every fill up

Update: New motor is in and I did ask Steve about the injectors leaking compression. he said that they quite possibly could. So as an added safety measure I zip tied on some bypass caps and called it good. They started up the new motor today and had no problems with compression. In the future I may change over to the correect size and thread bolts with crush washers for an added piece of mind. My new thoughts are go with the bolts and washers if you have the time.

check the premix post pinned in the second gen FAQ section. I use .852 oz per gallon of gas. Works out to be 11.928 oz per 14 gallons which is about the tipical amount I put in when I fill up during the week.

what do you use for oil good 2 stroke oil

i see amsoil listed alot

hey mazdadrifter

thanks for the clue

i pulle the vacuum hose off the modulator and fluid ran out so it shouldnt smoke once i change that

any tcw3 oil is fine



mike

I personally like amsoil, just because many succesfull moto-cross and snowmobile racers swear by it, and it has been tested and perfected over many years.



Any 2 cycle will work much better than injecting motor oil tho. Amsoil is harder to come buy, but i just get a couple cases at a time. They have a case that comes with 24 8oz bottles, so it's perfect for our purpose. It's works extremely well so I'm using about 6-8 oz's per fill up (approx 10-11 gallons). Depends if I'm runnin her hard or idleing down the interstate.

thanks

when i go turbo we will be race most of the time so i will mix half and half valvoline and motul 2 stroke oil the motor is the best stuff you can get it starts at $10 a quart smells like cheeries too