Does anyone know what type of locktite should be use in the e-shaft nut that holds the flywheel on? Red, Blue....?



Mazdatrix said they dont use any, but thought I read wher it should be used.



My new aluminum flywheel should be here next week https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

ive never used any. the really old ones had a locking tab.



you dont need much to hold it on there, i would use the locktite thats the weakest, you may want to pull it off someday

nah no locktite needed. that sucker should be torqued around 275 I belive. that sucker won't come loose!

Thanks guys. The MFM has the torque listed at 350 ft/lbs! I better eat my Wheaties that day!

if you give me a long enough lever....

The front gets loctited, no?



Torch + 1/2" impact gun + vise grips + three guys + 10 minutes = off https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

i locite my with the strongest stuff they sell. last thing i want is that nut loosening



you can always torch the nut to break the locitie bonds

300+ ft/lbs of torque will be pretty hard to come off. No locktite. If you do, just a little bit will suffice.

if you think you'll need some sort of locktite, use blue. Blue is thread locker and would still come off without the use of torch

Front E-Shaft bolt is loctite'd from factory. You need the heat to melt the compound before you even try to loosen the nut.



I wouldn't go as hardcore as red loctite (strongest), but I do agree with Cheers! to use some because all it takes is a little heat to get it off if you want to remove it.

on the later cars they have a tabby jobber to keep the front bolt on, works way way better than locktite.

i just don't liek the idea of the flywheel going loose, it scares me.

fixed.

Yea a little weaker loctite would do you wonders, but at 300+ ft/lbs, it's going to be a bitch to get off anyways.

If you do use it use blue.



I didn't use any. I just gave it a few extra rat tats with the impact.

Its not nearly so dramatic. The throw out bearing keeps it from coming loose enough to slip off both shafts. But it will shake the car like all hell until you push the clutch in.

If its the stock one, and your spinning it at say 7k or so and it pops off, I figure the inertia of it would be enough to break whatever is in its way. Including the input shaft on the tranny. But who knows?

It cant move far enough to slip off the ecc shaft. If your clutch is properly adjusted, there wouldnt even be 1/8" between the pressure plate fingers and the throwout bearing. And while the inertia to tear everything to pieces is there, there is considerably less side load, because the flywheel is balanced. Yes, theres the counterweight, but thats opposing the imbalance of the engine.

FYI, in case you didnt pick up on it, I forgot to torque the flywheel nut once. And it didnt mess anything up, just shook the car like all hell. I put the clutch in, it went away. I nursed the car home using the clutch to keep light pressure on the pressure plate to keep it seated, got home, and fixed it. And it came loose at around 3k rpm.

I think some of you are missing the point that its at 300 ft/lbs. That's more than most impact guns can put out. I remember when I tried taking off my flywheel (no loctite used from the PO) It took my Dad and my 3 tries to pop it off. Fucker finally pulled off after 15 minutes.



Moral of the story: You don't need the loctite. I just used anti-seize.

haha crap, i doused it with red..... whoops..... hahaha

a friend of mine had that happen, with similar results. the funny ones are the tranny ones, where a snap ring pops off and it jambs everything together, or when it goes into 2 gears at once....

Well that is comforting to know. I figured it would just slip right off.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll just use a small amount (the proper amount!) of blue locktite. It just makes me feel better since I would have to pull the entire motor and trans to get to it once it is in the car.

The aluminum flywheel is supposed to show up today according to UPS tracking https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif



BTW - a company names Fidanza makes the aluminum flywheels for Racing Beat. If you look around you can find them about $300 for a NA 2nd gen. About $160 less than RB, but you will need the RB $25 hardware kit. You can save $135.



One other thing is that RB's Street/Strip clutch disk is a ClutchNet clutch - say's so in big letters etched in the clutch hub. Nice build quality on the clutch and I'm sure you can get it cheaper direct from ClutchNet.

Pressure plate is a Dakin unit.

Well, I got the old flywheel off with out any drama. 2 hits with a lead hammer and it was loose. I go teh new aluminum flywheel mounted and clutch and pressure plate installed, but I've been having problems getting the trans to engage withthe clutch splines. I had trouble before and swore I would throw out the cheap ass plastic clutch alignment tool I had, but guess what I'm using again... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif



So I think I'll see if I can get a new one that fits a bit tighter and if it lines up OK, ny job will be done. Lets see, whats next on the list......

I have a clutch tool if you need it

Thanks, but I got it on after 2-3 tries after work today. I am going to throw that POS plastic alignment tool away! I need to find a core trans and cut the input shaft down to use as an alignment tool - that is the best way.

Thanks. You just gave me a good use for one of those broken trannies in my garage. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif