GF's project continued
#1
Starting w/ the little issues that the car had, I started by replacing the radiator. The only things that are really holding this car back from being a more reliable starter racer is the fact that the stock radiator busted on my buddy a few months ago, and the battery is dead. So for starts I got a new, slightly thicker, radiator. I'm not looking to spend too much $$ so the aluminum version wasn't really in the cards. Here's some pics.
First pic was my buddy's temp fix, go JB weld..he was on 95 and had to make it 45 miles back home..so I can't bash the repair too much..lol.
Also, from the engine bay shot, you can see the red brackets...i made a point to return them to black, lol...
Next weekend I should have the new battery and taylor battery relocation kit installed. I'm moving the battery to the hatch area and using a nice duralast unit..
Once this is all done, she can start learning to drive the car
First pic was my buddy's temp fix, go JB weld..he was on 95 and had to make it 45 miles back home..so I can't bash the repair too much..lol.
Also, from the engine bay shot, you can see the red brackets...i made a point to return them to black, lol...
Next weekend I should have the new battery and taylor battery relocation kit installed. I'm moving the battery to the hatch area and using a nice duralast unit..
Once this is all done, she can start learning to drive the car
#2
you sasid "starter racer" right?
if she's going to race the car in an organized event, when you relocate the battery youll need to make a "system shut down" switch easily accessible from the outside of the vehicle, AKA drill a hole through the sheet metal and put a switch in the car's body, running it to your relocated battery.
just figured youd like to know that,. most people dont know that, then find out they have to drill their sheet metal, and so move the battery back to the engine bay and get a lightweight one, such as a braille auto battery, which i believe is only 7lbs.
kevin.
if she's going to race the car in an organized event, when you relocate the battery youll need to make a "system shut down" switch easily accessible from the outside of the vehicle, AKA drill a hole through the sheet metal and put a switch in the car's body, running it to your relocated battery.
just figured youd like to know that,. most people dont know that, then find out they have to drill their sheet metal, and so move the battery back to the engine bay and get a lightweight one, such as a braille auto battery, which i believe is only 7lbs.
kevin.
#3
I've raced in SCCA and NASA events, along with NHRA and IHRA drag events (hell, i got back to the NIRA year, lol)...way ahead of you on that...but it's not going to be that kind of "starter racer"
I just want her to use this car to hit up local "open" track events... she prefers drag racing, but doesn't know much about the setup, the launch, etc...so we're using this car to teach her that...then move her into another car..
My FC has the cutoff switch on the rear already too...
I just want her to use this car to hit up local "open" track events... she prefers drag racing, but doesn't know much about the setup, the launch, etc...so we're using this car to teach her that...then move her into another car..
My FC has the cutoff switch on the rear already too...
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