well, i've been playin with my carb today. tryin to tune it in some more. found somethin interesting out. i don't know what its called but one of the holes on the metering block looks to have a factory flaw. one hole was WAYYYYYYY TOO BIGGGGGGG. so i changed the metering blocks and low and behold i have a nice idle for once. changed my intake vacuum from 14 to 7 and i'm just about to test it. hope it works alot better now and i can get a etter tune.

hope those changes work out for you. That problem would explain why you had to have your idle mix screws (air bleeds) turned practically all the way out. Get the carb tuned in and then when you can get an aplified direct fire ignition on there you should be very happy with the results. I am very sorry that the transistor trick board I have is bad. I will let you know when I get sent the new fixed AND improved board from gsl-se addict. I made myself look real bad when installing that transistor trick with all the praises I had of it only to find out the board was bad.

well, it runs good. idles alot better. now just a plain tune in will do good. need to get a bung for optimal tunage.

yeah wide band tuning will give you the most optimal results!

Get your bung put in, try to get it a little ways down from the motor, and we can do some tuning with my wide band. Do you have a way to change jets, with out pulling the fuel bowl.?

MSD!!!! That's all I have to say. You all saw how my car starts. Like no other carbed rotary, and it's all cause of the MSD...

with the WORKING transistor trick my Holley started easier than even my FI 13b I got now. MSD is nice but the cost is much more than the trasistor trick is.

THe only way to change jetting on a Holley without removing the float bowls are if you get the "Adjust-A-Jet" metering blocks. The metering blocks I am talking about have an adjustable needle that all you do is tighten or loosen to change jetting on the fly.

http://holley.com/55001HOL.asp