I got my car back from my mechanic, who moonlights as a painter...The paint looked fine at first, although he did paint it in the dead of winter. I paid for
1.sanding 2.priming 3.basecoat (Mazda sunrise red, paint code RH) 4.clearcoat. A week after getting it back, it was still soft and had lots of imperfections in it. Handprints were easily left where the car was touched. He tells me he needs to buff it out. I get it back, IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL. Fast forward to a few months from then, and now it feels like GD sandpaper, and its flaking to what appears to be my ORIGINAL PAINT!! That pisses me off. But aside from that, does this paint look like it could be salvaged, or what? On the flaking, he assures me they are stresses in the paint from where I must've hit something. I think it's BS. I've never hit anything in my life. Please see the attached pics and let me know what you think. |
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yet more
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will wonders never cease
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Looks like there was no flex additive in the paint, does the snout look the same way? stress cracks everywhere?
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did you show the guy his "wonderful" job? That's just pathetic. Hope you get your car repainted soon
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That paint job sucks! sorry, The was no prep done from the looks of the spoiler shot, It looks like it was half ass wiped off and shot w color! where's the clear?
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yeah the color looks faded
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The phrase "moonlights as" does not belong in professional credentials unless it is followed by "bartender", "stripper" or "dominatrix".
Someone will have to peel all that crap off there, I would think. |
Thanks guys...this pisses me off. I paid 600 for that job. He's accusing me of that being my fault. Apparently he did his t2 just like mine, and his paint turned out like "armor." Mine turned out like "****." He wants me to have him buff it again, then hand wax it for 4 hours. I'll ask about the flex agent, he didnt say anything about it. What a bastard.
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Front snout and rear bumper need flex additive because of the material they are made out of. It looks like someone smoked the paint when they cut and buffed the car, maybe a rookie was running the wheel, at any rate your are most surly due some repair and repaint for that job.
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for starters the paint should have been dry and hardened, before you got the car back... which would have taken maybe 4-6 hours, it looks like there was NO prepwork involved, looks like he shot it out of a can, and finally there is no clear on there... Him buffing it surely didn't help matters, I'd say bring it to me and I'd do it right, I'm in Joplin, MO it's about an hour drive, or if you want I can give you some info, I have a brother that's been in the business for 12 years that will gladly point you in the right direction.
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I agree with everyone else. Obviously no flex adhesion promoter was used. Thats not even the worst of it. I don't see any primer or clear there. I would assume that he sprayed it with Acrylic enamel if that is what you wanna call spraying. But for $600 you got what you paid for.
A real paint job is more like $3-$4k for a decent job. It can go up from there dependant upon the shop. |
Depending on what you want painted (just the top layer, or the whole chassis) a good paint job will run you about 1K for the top, and about 3-4 for every nook and cranny.
Sorry, but you got FUCKED. For far less money and a bit of effort and patience, you could have probably done it yourself in a garage. |
i doubt buffing and hand waxing it will do miracles to that care
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Basically what everyone else has said, ans in order to do it all right again, the car will have to be completely stripped of the **** paint you have, and start from scratch. Sorry you had to learn the hard way, but as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.
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in the pics you can see everything he did
1st pic shows some primer on the bumper and some cracks in it as well, from a impact 2nd pic shows the bumper again with those cracks as well as how he painted right over the chips. Either the bumper was repaired before or you hit something. No amount of flex will stop the paint from coming off in a impact, it helps for light taps. You can also see he used no primer for the lower part of the bumper, not a big deal because a plastic bumper in good condition doesnt need MORE primer, it will actually make things worse. the hood pic is nice, you can see his white primer, the oem primer the red base, and the clear- there is clear- you can tell by the drivers side where it looks like 2 shades of red. Simple enough to tell- wax a part of it and see if the rag is red or not. the 1/4 panel pic shows what looks like a classic example of laquer primer or paint swelling the new paint up. Sometime in the past I would say there was a repair done there, and now its showing its ugly head. you got a $600 mess, no busy shop will want to get involved with a mess like that, its not worth it. It will end up costing you more then $600 to get it removed. Anyone can learn to swing a gun in a few weeks, a good painter is someone who can properly prep the surface, knows how to mix and apply the products, and knows how to deal with problems as they arise. And more importainly- would never let someone take thier car away looking like that piece of **** you have there. It actually looks like a maaco paint job, you sure he didnt send it there and pocket the change? Ask him what primer and paints he used |
he used the paint code rh sunrise red, but as far as everything else, I dont know. Unfortunately, the guy who fucked me on the paint is also the ONLY ROTARY MECHANIC in tulsa, so I can't just go around pissing him off. If something else breaks, I'm screwed-you catch my drift. But thanks for verifying that I did get screwed over on this one.
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The Maaco paint job I had on my old car was far, far better than that.
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Originally Posted by Srce' date='Jun 13 2004, 12:15 AM
For far less money and a bit of effort and patience, you could have probably done it yourself in a garage.
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Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Jun 13 2004, 09:09 PM
After painting my parts Idon't know about that. I spent $720 on supplies to paint my hood and hatch using Dupont Chromo paint. I might have been able to shave $200 off that buy not buying some of the extar stuff like sand paper, tack cloths, lacquer fill, primer etc..
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unfortunately, he claimed to be a pro, citing his own t2 as a reference...I should've known :(
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Good to know Dave.
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keep in mind shops buy at a far better discount then people
off the street. We buy 5% over cost, they give out the discounts according to how much paint you buy so everyone doesnt get the deep discounts. |
Man, that looks horrible. I've seen better paint come from Earl Scheibe's and Maaco's $200 paint service.
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yeah he definitly did not wet/prep well enough or at all, and he didnt put enough hardener in the paint
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