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-   Interior, Exterior, Audio Mods (https://www.nopistons.com/interior-exterior-audio-mods-22/)
-   -   FC Type 2/3 Audio (https://www.nopistons.com/interior-exterior-audio-mods-22/fc-type-2-3-audio-61082/)

Teyvareb 08-12-2006 11:27 PM

Why make your life difficult?



Well, after a little intel and some wiring diagrams, if you're one of the "lucky" ones to have four inch speakers front and rear and 6.5" door woofers, you'll quickly find that your aftermarket headunit (if installed properly with a harness and not cutting the connector) won't drive the stock door woofers, which you've since replaced. If you do a little searching, you'll probably find that they're amplified and need a signal from the stereo. Then you'll try to get them working and get pissed. Then you'll spend hours trying to figure out how to connect them to the stereo without having to run more wire.



This is where I hit my standstill for a few days.



After almost a week of searching, you might find out that the two connectors going to/from the woofer amps are opposite of eachother and you can hook them together. If you're like me and decide that you don't want to waste your time running new wire to already wired speakers, do this. Bam! Like freakin' magic the door speakers will work. Bear in mind though, that they're run in parallel with the front tweeters though, so you need to keep the volume downish or adjust the balance to the rear. Then you'll start looking for rears, and again if you're "lucky" like me, you'll find those awesome 4" tweeters back there too. You can probably find a set of 8"ers to stick in the towers that don't need to be amplified. Then everything will be hunky-dorey.



Of course, there's still more to be done. Rather than hacking and slashing your way to the worst stereo upgrade I've ever seen, why not spend a few minutes learning to solder? Then, after you solder the FC adapter harness to the stereo harness and wrap the connections in some sort of insulation (heat shrink tubing, electrical tape) you won't have flaky speakers whenever you hit a bump in the road. You can also take the old connectors off the stock speakers and solder them to the new ones. Cheap, easy, and you don't have to crimp connectors to the two inches of wire you can get to.



Yeah, I know. At this point, some of you are saying, "You're retarded. You just wasted all that time to use the factory stuff when you could've just re-done it." Well, why do it again if it's already done? Soldering is a good skill to learn anyways, even if you only do it once. "Well, I'd rather run the rear speaker leads to my door speakers" Yeah, because being four inches away from the dash speakers makes them rears. Imaging dude. "Who do you think you are telling us what we should do?" Well, I'm just providing a new idea. It's something I've done to all of my friend's cars because they know it's a job done well. It's something I'd wish more people would do so there isn't a long, drawn out discussion as to why your dash lights don't work anymore because you just taped the wires together and the tape fell off.



So, I'll bet my next paycheck that only about 5% of the people who read this will actually think it's a good idea. But that's still more people that only have to do it once and have done the job right. I mean, hell, you go to an "audio install" shop, and they pull the same half assed job that Jimmy down the street could do, but you pay for it. Think about it.



I suppose that's about it, my rant is over.

j9fd3s 08-14-2006 05:24 PM

lol, i've found for the dash speakers its easier to run new wire, but the door speakers, are wired, and running new wire NICELY is a huge pain, and again the factory already has wires there, so why not use em.

Jonlax 08-20-2006 01:37 PM

I just ran a new wire to the doors. Took about 25 minutes for both of them but it was a pain. I wish i knew about this before hand.


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