My internet has been down for a little while now and it's quite annoying







Saturday night I blew an apex seal in my daily driver, and it took out the whole rotor!





YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY YYYYYYYYYYYYYYY

Damn dude sorry to hear that.

I thought you were at the hospita having a nail removed from your head. Sucks about the car though.

*PSH* Where You At!?

well so i guess you need that motor huh? LOL



its all good im getting a volvo https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

https://www.nopistons.com/turboii/al...9e8a09c929.jpg

do you have a replacement motor? if not i have a n/a shortblock for sale

how did you manage that?

bummer dude

I wish my daily driver had apex seals.

^^^^^ mine does, im lucky i guess.... until the seals blow, then i hate it

Okay so not the whole rotor



Rear rotor has one face with half compression









Either way I need to swap motors soon



defprun yeah I do need that motor now bro, unless you can find me something better







I switched to premix with this motor I hope that didn't do it in, or using the wrong mix or something



I usually overshoot the mix, I'll add a hare extra. Is it possible that the mixture in the tank will settle after sitting for a few days or something? I don't see why when it's TCW3 cert 2 stroke.



This was a higher milage motor that I fixed up but I didn't crack the compression on the inside, everything else (front cover, other outer block mods) was looked after and brought up to par



S4 6P, rear rotor was the one that blew (Common in S4?).



It had an engine vibration since I put it into this car, RPM related, slight vibration, I told Adam and he had warned me to look into it further and it might be a sign of failure to come. I'm using an aftermarket light flywheel and counterweight, could an imbalance there cause the vibration and in time take out the rotor or something (since the rear was the blown rotor)



Or was the motor just on it's way to begin with?



I don't want to swap in another 6P and have it blow in a month again due to something I hadn't considered..



Right now I'm just thinking motor was on it's way out anyways, it does have some decent mileage on it but compared to how much life other people have gotten out of S4 6Ps, I consider it pretty damn premature.



IDEAS?!

How much premix are you using? Tcw3 isn't suppose to settle, so shouldn't be a problem there.

Oh yeah FYI I was winding out 3rd gear and I got to about 5500 RPM and the car virtually "hit-a-wall" and I lost serious power.



Funny how fast it happens, the car was running spectacular and then just like flicking a switch, it had no power. No funny noises or signs as I was winding the motor out, just BAM no power.



It sounds like the porche from getaway in stockholm at 6K RPM on one rotor. LOL

Well if it hits a wall like that and no power, sounds like no fuel to me.

Or do you mean it blew up and no power?

I was using about 250ml to 40 L of fuel



I had read advice from reputable builders (not just at nopistons but articles all over the web), and converted it to metric (little less than ounce per gallon)





I shouldn't be off but if I am then at least I know what the problem was.

As I understood, one ounce per gallon was a race type setup, but I run the car at decent RPM (but cruise at lower RPM), I don't shift at 3k like a grannie when I drive it.



The rotor is definately blown, when it happened I was thinking fuel injector failure, or spark plug failure, wire failure, coilpack failure, something simple



But I pulled over and I have an open element filter, the intake pulse was not the same at all anymore, and pulling the plugs and cranking the engine over brought light that the rear rotor only has one face with a bit of compression. Front rotor runs like a champ? LOL

Yeah suppose to be like 100:1 ratio. Should have plenty of variance there to rule that out. If it were any kind of no spark problem I doubt it could blow, the sparking action to try to ignite fuel or the lack of is where you run into problems. I'd investigate the fuel sytem and make sure its working.

V8 SWAP!!!

Good call, when the new one goes in I'm going to take a more serious look at my warmup enrichment maps, it wouldn't run 100% until it was fully warmed up. I had assumed it was because I had enrichment too high (fuel consumption while warming up was ridiculous) but if it was lean, that might starve lubrication a bit and in the long run would advance seal wear.

More like





CAR SWAP





I'm done with daily driving a car that uses engine management and the only thing stock under the hood is the ports on the block of the motor.





Fun weekend toy to tinker with, NOT a daily driver

Just to clarify, it would run just fine and drive just fine, but after it was warmed up it would run through the gears alot better



It was NOT as weak as it is now on one rotor while cold

You wont blow a n/a from the fuel maps being off(or ignition for that matter). I could give you plenty of examples of me not blowing my motor.



Want to know what I think it is? Your fuel map was tuned overly rich to compensate for you running map based accel enrichment vs TPS. Old n/a motors that usually lose compression are the result of stuck seals from carbon build-up as opposed to actually breaking the seals. Running rich makes it worse. Old engines are more likely to suffer from stuck seals because as the seal wears, the spring loses some of tension, as well as the seals getting shorter, so there is less force on the seal.

maybe you can build teh other gxl motor in mikes garage? it only has 180 000k instead of 200, lol.



id like to stop worrying if i had somewhere to store the car!

colin i did offer you my motor but i thinki JUST sold it, i wanted 550 fotr it. 120km's on a mazdees rebuild

CAWLINGS!!! **HUG**

Okay well I'm back in business now, internet on my computer and new (used) engine in my RX7



Adam since I put that engine in (the first one) I have been using TPS accel enrichment, not map based, I set up that full range on the TB I believe I told you about



BUT



The motor I pulled out, all 3 apex seals had big chips missing, all three on the rear rotor.



I hadn't adjusted the fuel maps at all for this new motor (since it's the same setup entirely except for flywheel weight)



My engine vibration issue has disappeared with this motor, BUT the car would barely run, I did a quick tune with a friend and a laptop, enrichened the map and it ran alot better, but I didn't have time to set up all areas of the map, but I enrichened it quite a bit. Idle EGO voltage about .88, WOT it falls off to about .82 at 7k (I need to tune the map, not just increase pulsewidths all over the board, I just didn't have time).



And I still have the warmup issue which I have decided is NOT coolant temp related, it will do it at 182-184 F, then while still at that temperature, something will change and it will start running fine, temperature stays at 182-184 F.



Unless my EGO sensor is playing tricks on me, the car runs very very lean and then suddenly runs fine and enrichens itself. I could barely drive up the hill while it was warming up. I was suspicious of ignition cycles before coming out of the startup enrichment loop, but for the amount of time it's doing this (and the fact that I'm being told it's lean, not rich) that shouldn't be the case. But it is a narrow band EGO sensor so it might be overly rich and throwing off the sensor voltage, right?





But I appreciate any of your input, and I need advice! I am worried about running lean because these two motors run on premix now, if it was lubrication related causing seal failure, I feel safer enrichening. But if you mention enrichment might actually cause the failure.... Hmmm!!



I need to talk to you on AIM which I will do ASAP now that I have internet again.



I have some other issues I won't go into much detail about with in this thread, it's just Gen D after all, lol.







But my car is really pissing me off I don't want to use it as a DD anymore.

im going to use your engine stand adaptor soon

Awesome I hope you like it lol

Thats the idea ive always had, daily driver + rx7. But my plan was always flawed with piece of **** cars.

You still got that adapter for me? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

um you want it rich at idle (12.2:1-12.8 depending) but over idle you can run almost anything on an na and it shouldnt be blowing up. we're running 13:1@full load in the race car and it seems happy enough. apparently the really fast guys (in our class, stock engine, full ecu) are running really lean like upper 14's