This was my first time using it although I've seen the end result before. Having an inboard motor in a boat requires that you paint the motor on a somewhat regular basis in order to keep it from rusting away. I had a few spots starting to break out and I decided I would try POR-15. I started with the cleaner degreaser which was nothing short of amazing, within 5 minutes it had removed diesel fuel from the engine, rinsed it right away with fresh water. Next is the metal ready prep treatment, I have no idea if it does it's job or not but it etches the metal. After that you let it dry and go to town with the paint. The fumes will give you one hell of a buzz, i had the engine room hatch open, fan running you name it and I'm still cross eyed. First warning comes now, you CANNOT get this **** off your hands if it dries, even says it on the can, none the less I managed as I always do to be covered in the ****, it will supposedly come off in a week or so. Solvent won't remove it.... like the can says. This stuff goes a LONG way, I bought a gallon, did one coat on the engine and transmission with less then a quart of it. Stuff looks really nice, it isn't UV stablized so they recommend you paint over it with regular paint, being in the engine room I am not sure that I will paint over it I dunno we'll see. I jsut want the the engine protected. I have not doubt this **** works, it seals out any air or moisture which is what you need to rust and it's appears to be bulletproof. The guy used it on my Benz in the areas where the drains are and where they often rust, it has no rust He also did in on the engine bay wheel wells and it it's holding up marvelously.



Anyone else used the stuff? I was pretty skeptical at first, but I must admit i am very impressed.

I have not, I was fully prepped for rusty floors in the vert from all those years of a leaky top and thought I was

going to end up buying a can of the stuff, but luckily the floor was in great shape!



I think the fact that I popped all the rubber drain plugs out helped it.

Yeah, I've used some on the Nova. It seems like a good product. It's been a couple of years now since I did the front subframe, and I don't see any spots where it's bubbling yet. I used their chassis black as a topcoat and it came out looking pretty darn nice, and I'm an absolute amateur when it comes to painting. I'll have to find a pic or go out and take a new one. After I blow the dust off the damn thing.

Yea the motor is gray now, the stuff is not UV stabalized, but it won't be in the sun. That said I think i am going to paint over it with their engine enamel, i'm hoping they have something like the old ford blue as that matches the perkins paint perfectly.

I did the floor pan on my P-port fc about 8 years ago. Its still good and rust free.. I got some on my hands, and I basically had to live with it for about a month till it wore off...

Humidity seems to make it dry faster, here its dryer than a popcorn fart, it took almost 10 days to cure, then it rained and hardened.

I still have the can, wonder how long it keeps for.

Its like a brushable ceramic coating.

**** i hope it aint a month man, i got this **** all over me, i even have some paper towel glued to the paint then to my hand, i look like a freak!



Humidity must make it dry fast, I painted it and within 2 hours it was dry, the engine room hatch was open and the engine room is not a/c'd except when i work in there so it's as humid as you can get without it raining. I just finished cleaning up from the second and last coat, I'll snap some pics if Rob promises to be nice LOL



it does give you one hell of a buzz, but i am a believer.

I'm not one to make light of another's misfortune, but HA HA!



I've heard the stuff takes a while to wear off your skin. And you shouldn't be painting without proper ventilation and a respirator.

Party pooper.

I think the reason this paint takes so long to dry is the same reason it covers so damn well, i think it has hardly any solvent in at all, this **** is all paint solids

try some baby oil and rubber gloves to see if the **** will fall off.

Wear the gloves for like a hour or two so your hands sweat up good.

I was thinking about soaking them in vegetable oil, the rubber gloves are a good idea, thanks dude!

POR is done, now I gotta do the engine enamel.

Yo' motor, mang.... It need mo' bling.



Two words: Chrome air cleaner, yo.

I've ordered the engine enamel that will be the next step

Overprep of the surface will make POR fail.. ask me how I know

Yea it likes rough metal and rust.

Jumpin' Geehossafat! It's Banzaitoyota!!!

who is this banzai?

he's the stuff legends are made up, he moved out into the country, disconnected from society, he sits around burning dead pets to pass the hours and talks about a giant garage he's going to build some day.

I use the stuff on all of my Jeep frames... like you said, a gallon of it goes a LLLLLLOOOOOONNNNNNGGGGG way. BTW, try to not get any on you... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

my por engine enamel will be in tomorrow i'll be able to finish this project up.

looks purty capn.

Finally got the engine enamel today, they sent me the wrong color the first time around. One thing they didn't tell me is if you don't paint of the POR-15 within 24 hours you have to scuff it or use their etching primer. This etching primer **** STINKS, but you can't paint over it in 15 minutes. I did the primer this afternoon then a coat of paint. The engine enamel doesn't cover quite as well as the POR-15, but it does pretty good, after the first coat it was looking pretty shitty as the gray primer was still showing through, second coat made it look BEAUTIFUL! I'll snap some pics tomorrow, it's almost 2am and i just got done painting the second coat. That should be enough looks like i got everything covered and it looks good. I'm still really impressed with the way this stuff lays down, it really smoothes out and turns out nice. The color was chrysler blue which ended up matching the perkins blue so well you can't tell the difference.

did you ask them if you put more por15 over the old por15 if you still needed the etching primer?



meaning if you overcoat por15 with the same maybe you would not have needed the etching primer or had to sand?

Yes of course, any overcoat has to be done before the por dries, so once the por15 dries if you want to go back over it with POR15 you have to etch it. The stuff is like ceramics when it dries.

i have epoxies that if you miss the window time to finish coat them you have to apply more epoxy first

or sand it. So its easier to apply more epoxy.

Yea I could have sanded it, but that's little easier said then done when it comes to an engine.

I read wrong, I thought you said you had to sand it, thats why I was asking

Done

I have never used POR in an open environment. However we used it to paint the end plates of our heat exchanger which was cast steel and beginning to rust. We let it sit and set, did all the proper prep, and within an hour of bolting the end plates back on and filling our loop with water, the paint was already peeled away and rusting again. On the flip side one of the other programs used it to coat all of their test stand which supports a well known helicopter drivetrain and have had no problems. But the test stand is also in a sealed warehouse. I would say as long as it's not in an environment where it is constantly exposed to water it apparently works well.



- Hand

Well we'll know soon, it's on a boat engine. So far the stuff still appears to be bulletproof. Did you use the marine clean and metal ready when you painted it? I have some the guy used in the engine bay of the benz, it's been there for 3 years and still looks perfect.