I got the report from Sevenspeed today my engine blew up on em. They went over a few options with me i wanted to see what you guy had to say about the pricing. They said i am looking at either geting a Re-man or having them re-build the current one and having it ported at the same time. They said either way i went it would be about the same if it goes good i am looking at 5000 bucks if it goes bad i am looking at 6000 bucks. So either way its goin to be exp. This also includes my turbo being rebuilt. And if i get it ported that goes with pop off valves and what not. so do these prices seem right? They also include a new wiring harness ( I need one ) and all the labor for the install. If i get the Re-man i get a 1 yr unlimited mile warrenty. If it get's ported they still cover it if it's their fault. So what do you guy's think i should do?

how healthy was the engine? what were they doing when it blew? it blew at their shop for something they did, apparently wrong, right? id pay half thet at the most. but thats just me.

No it was a bad oil line they found from when i bought it so not their fault. so you think 5000 is too exp where coudl i get it done cheaper? i really dont have many options around me and they are pretty damn good up there.

werent u running, even racing the car with the bad oil line. and now all of the sudden it caused the engine to give up?

5000-6000 is about right, especially if you are getting a new harness and rebuilt turbos too



mike

no they fixed it when i took it in they knew about it and fixed it. I took it in the day after i bought it. They were hoping that the oil line broke while or just before i took it there. So we were watching to see what happened i'v only had it back for 2 weeks it was up there for 3 months. i had a turbo problem took it in about a week ago and they fixed it. They took it on a test run just about an hour ago and the apex went. They knew it could happen so did i we were just praying it would be after summer. But murphy fucked me once again

ahh, ok. well u can use these prices as reference.

http://www.kdrotary.com/price_list.html

Rebuild Only (owner has engine pulled completely, with plenum and harness)

Stock: $2354.29

W/ Reliability Mods: $2518.49

W/ Mods and Street Porting: $3102.49



Well they were goin to do the 3'rd one and rebuild my turbos and give me a new wiring harness all for 5k and that includes labor and at most 6k so i'd say that's not a bad deal.

the price is not bad at all

Serves you right for drag racing it...

Hey if you have a car with as many mods as mine, if your not racing it you shoudlent own it.

I think the nice way to say it is... shut the **** up?



what do you think? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

haha, ryan has always been against draggin, he loves autoX.

So how does a oil line that used to leak, and has been fixed for months cause an apex seal to blow, please enlighten me. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



On a side not, I knew it was too damn good to be true!!! He paid like 10k for an FD with somewhere near another 10k in mods....



It still suxs tho, hope it all works out in your favor.

The line was not working since before i bought the car. I only got the car in December of last year. I took it to 7 speed and they found it. I drove it 1000 miles to get it from FL to PA. the line that went was the line that feeds the rotar housing oil for the apec seals. So we dont knwo when it broke we were wishing that it was on the way to the shop but i guess it was sooner. You can run the engine for allmost 2k miles without oil to the Apex seals then at some point they will cost blow. I knew it was goin to go but we were wishing later rather than sooner.



PS i also woudl liek to get into AutoX but where i live drag is king

word

i drag race alot no engine problems. both require skill and money https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Rx7 Kid, Fds have omp correct? The apex seals get oil from that, which has nothing to do with any oil lines, it gets its oil straight from the front cover. I think they are BSing you.

And if you knew the line was broken, and that you were planning on driving the car still, you should have been premixing. Oh, btw, sucks about your engine. The only way I see you getting the work done cheaper is doing the work yourself.

the omp has little lines that go bad. they need to get replaced because the high heat of a rotary makes them brittle.

Yea that's what happened is the omp lines went i guess. who know i dont have a clue and they coudl be ******* me over but i highly doubt it. Not liek SevenSpeed at all. They only told me somthing about lines and oil wasent getting two the second rotar so tha's why it went i dont know exactly what happened.

they fixed it thou before i got the car back and they were hoping that not too much damage was done. But a lot was done i guess so the apex's on the second rotar went and now i need a rebuild.

rotar = rotor

it makes some sense, i think 1revvin7 just isnt getting the whole association between the oil line and OMP....





his oil injector line is what went, apparently on the rear rotor, and apparently thats the apex seal that went. I guess it's plausible, if the rear rotor wasnt getting oil injected for a lot of driving time.

yeah if you drive with no metering lines it fooks the housing



mike

Yep and that is what happned

i got a reman for 2000 from maloy mazda and vosko and my friend are doing the work but, then again i don't have 10k in mods so it probably won't be easy for you to do the work your self

$5000...sheesh...yet again, I remind people to learn about their cars or have deep pockets and lots of time on their hands. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683621.gif



Either way, $5000 doesn't seem bad considering that they'll be getting a lot of extra stuff done.

ah.. I understand now, I thought you meant some other oil line, like an oil cooler or turbo line.... That really sucks! Premix is the only way to go.

That blows.

Yea once i get it back i will pre-mix from now on no matter what

yet another reason to go premix I guess

What do you guy's use for pre-mix? Also my turbo use to be leaking oil so i only ran 10W40 in the engine. But since everything will be rebuilt now and it wont be leaking what oil should i go to?

20-50 seems to be the oil of choice for a lot of rotor heads.

Well whats your climate like? I run royal purple's syn premix and their syn 10w-30 in the "crankcase"

for us fb guys, even the book says 20-50. So I follow the

book.

I tried 10-30 but it was too thin and caused my car to smoke.(no premix, just OMP)





Raul