Hi, I rotary swapped my miata.

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And I've been battling problems with it for a few months now. I think I have everything ironed out but it won't crank start. It doesn't even act like it's trying!



Heres the skinny:

fresh rebuild - street ported - it has run for about 5 minutes, I pull started it. Then due to my crappy hackjob of wiring the harness caught on fire, and I have since made a nice clean harness for it.



I would go into detail about my specific spark/fuel/efi setup but honestly I've diagnosed all that and I'm pretty sure that stuff isnt the problem:

- i know it's getting fuel (I put 1 quart of 2-stroke oil in my 10 gallon gas tank, should I add more for first start/break-in?)

- I know it's getting spark

- I've set the timing with a timing light



I was hoping since the engine got warmed up once that I wouldn't have to pull start it again. I'm waiting on wheels/tires in the mail and the car is currently on jackstands. I've heard of adding oil down the intake. I tried a capful of motor oil split between each IRTB and it didn't make a difference. Any tips for getting it running without pullstarting it again?

A quart in 10 gallons sounds like plenty of lube in the fuel.



I'd pull the plugs, disable the injection, and blow everything out of the engine. Basically do the old tried-and-true un-flooding procedure, then put in clean, dry plugs and try again.



Also, in winter here, my Turbo II needs a lot of extra fuel to fire. Make sure your cold-start enrichment is squirting enough fuel.

or make sure the cold start enrichment isnt fireing too much. im a bit confuzed though. you said your car will not crank to fire leading to belive the motor wont turn over at all but the rest of your story makes me believe that either the motor is plane flooded and needs to dechoke , or your porting is rather large and your starter just isnt fast enuff to over come the overlap making it dificult to fire on its own. what ecu are you using and where did the base map come from.



randy

sounds like the timing is not set right in your ecu. zero the timing again

Nice swap it took me a month just to fix my 13b miata as i had wiring problems out the ass from the guy who did the whole thing.

Once you know you have spark, fuel and a good rotation speed (very important) try removing the spark plugs, and with an air compressor find a way to quickly place the air line alternatly from one chamber to the next where it would be on it's tdc position. Your basicly replacing expanded gas with the compressed air. This will clear the chamber of wet fuel and seal the apexes'. you'll see that you can rotate the engine by hand just slightly and the compressed air will do the rest of the rotation, then switch chambers. Do this for about 5-10 rotations of the rotor, so that means 15-30 e-shaft rotations to make sure all seals are in good condition. Also a cap full of motor oil in each chamber will help if there isn't some already. Oh by the way I used a regular air chuck with a piece of rubber hose placed on the threads. It fit right in the spark plug hole for a tight seal. I was in the same sort of boat you were in, and this seemed to have the best effect . Good Luck!!!!!