first, what is the difference in the 13bre and 13brew engines? somebody told me only the turbos are different. is this true? if so, im planning on using a single turbo anyways, so it doesnt matter. also, can the same motor mounts be used on both engines? what clutch and flywheel should i use with this engine and a TII tranny?

and how difficult would it be to swap in a fd wiring harness, with a plug-and-play ecu? im planning on an apex'i power fc, and all autometer gauges. thanks

the ignition pickup is different on the rew than it is on the re. the re uses the same cas setup as the fc but the rew uses mag pickups in the front cover. the mag pickups may be more accurate but it just makes the conversion that much more difficult when it comes to wiring. Of course if you got all the wiring and can sort though it than it shouldn't be to bad but imagine wiring up the complicated solenoid system that those engines had. In my opinion it would be best to go with the 13b-rett instead of the rew and then go with a standalone system.

As far as clutch and flywheel you can make up your mind as to what type of clutch to use but you will need to use the flywheel from the re or rew. if the source engine came was from an automatic then you will need to go with an aftermarket flywheel and use an automatic counterweight from the source engine.

If I am wring about any of these things please chime in.

I just saw a FC with a RETT swap last year at a meet but I cannot remember the name of the guy or if he frequented the forum.

I found some text that should be of help to you also

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/13b-re.html

the engine mounts on the REW and RE are positioned differently. REW the monts on the Rear iron, on the RE(and 13bt) mounts on the MIDDLE IRON,the RE swap is a helluva lot easier.for 2nd gen owners (also the 20b is easier in a 2g also!!!) although someone on this forum has made conversion mounts for the REW engine into the FC chassis i personally doubt the strength of those mounts. dont even BOTHER tryin to use a stock wiring harness in an fd to do a fc conversion. THEORETICALLY its possible BUT (i know i have one) the wiring harnesses on 90% of 3rd gens are cooked and crispy and unless you plan on getting a whole new wiring harness (which would be stupid because you could almost buy a standalone ecu for that much $) its pointless because you will be spending the rest of your life dealing with electrical issues and crispy connectors.



you'd be better off doing a RE swap but honestly for the $ you should just do a 13bt swap its much less $ and those RE engines are EXTREMELY overrated https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif although some people seem to think they can put out more power than rew engines i have YET TO SEE ANY EVIDENCE in fact i have seen more evidence that they are not good for making big hp (over 400whp) -chekcout the BRD design widebody bp 13bre cool car and engine package (re swap into fd) however it doesn't run laps any faster that the well tuned single turbo (rew powered) FD's! ,[color=#FF0000]and not worth the $ keep in mind you'd have to buy the jdm engine core and Have it rebuilt to spec because thos stock intake/exhaust ports on an RE are TINY. so betweeen the engine core and rebuild plan on spending 3-4000 on the engine alone at least going the RE route, you can find 13bt engines recently rebuilt (from totaled cars and such) sometime with receipts on this forum and ebay for MUCH more affordable.

hope this helps. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.gif OK now for some good info on The RE or REW swap. As stated YOU will need custom mounts for the RE or the REW. The CAS for the RE is the same for an FC so you can use any one from 86-91 turbo or not turbo. On the RE you can use fd or fc parts if you want. Like you could use and FD water pump or an FC water pump..I'm using an FC on on mine. The RE has much larger ports stock to stock than the REW engine (think of large street port on an REW engine) You can use a stock S5 ecu to "run" a RE engine but you will not be running it to its potential..best to use a standalone (haltech or something). For the transmission, yes all cosmo engines were autos..don't let that bother you..get any after market clutch and flywheel setup for and fc..just use one for the year tranny your using 87 tranny use 87 clutch and flywheel setup. YOU MUST use the auto counter weight that is on the engine. you can also use a stock FD flywheel if you wanted..

As I said before the porting in the RE is much larger than the FD rew engine..true except the exh ports..the incerts are more restricteve than the FD's so if you go the RE way and rebuild the engine have FD incerts pressed in the housings. or port them too. The thing to remember is how much you want to spend..and how crazy you want to go with it...If you do either swap you need to use a T2 shell or if you don't have one use the T2 drive line parts (tranny, drive shaft, rear diff., hafshafts and axles. Breaks if possible too).

The RE and The REW will make lots of power if the build is done right, but neither will be friendly to the pocket.

What about the advantages of the REW block? First off, the upper dowel area thats prone to breaking, esp on S4 engines is nearly twice as thick on the REW. It also comes stock with an oiling system at least as good as the "race" parts available for the previous engines. The REW is the latest generation of rotary prior to the renesis. Say what you want, but it is updated from the 13BT and 13B-RE engines.



About the ports, bigger isnt always better. The REW came out of mazda's flagship sports car, while the RE came out of the cosmo, which is just your basic near lux sedan.



Rotaryvillian, why do you doubt the strength of my mounts?

mazdaspeed7, if i do the rew swap, ill definetely be using your mounts. im kinda leaning towards the rew, mostly because its newer, and the port size doesnt matter that much to me. i just want it to flow really good. thats why it will be bridgeported. with the rew, would i need an fd clutch and flywheel, or could i use an aftermarket fc clutch and flywheel? i have a 11lb aluminum flywheel for a fc that id like to use. would i need an auto counterweight with the rew and a TII tranny? i need all the help i can get for either of these swaps, but so far, i think most people prefer the re. as for the 20b, been there, done that, and i dont plan on going through that again, but i dont just want a TII.

If you build the motor right extra casting or not it will withstand just as good. The RE properly built is the best 13b motor made for making power side ported.



Cryo treat the motor run studs have a wonderfull day.

The RE was designed and use the the same time the REW was..the FD however was continued and JC Cosmo line was ended. Engines were used intended for def. uses..but thats neither here or there..

I would use Mazdaspeeds mounts anyday, I would not worry about the strength of them. If your going to use the FC tranny use a clutch for that year tranny..I'm not sure if you can use a flywheel from an FC on an FD engine..I do know that you can use one on the RE. Either engine will make you happy..Oh another diff. between the two engines is are the turbos.. the RE's primary turbo is smaller than the FD's

Back up your argument. Lets hear why you think the RE is a superior motor.

S4 TII flywheels are not interchangeable between S5 or S6-9 as the rotor weights are different and the CW is built into the flywheel. S5 flywheels and CW are swappable all the way from S5 to S8.



The RE runners are larger and capable of making higher numbers easier without major custom fabrications while retaining side port intake design.



I use the same modification procedures on all rotary’s weather it is rew or re or T. These methods highly prevent allot of motor tq twist and heat transfer that causes these common failures such as dowel pins.