I'm about 95% sure im going w/ a wolf v500 3d w/ a flying loom into a 87 turbo ii

What kinda heatshrink, any special sheathings, what should i shield with something extra?

should i use electrical tape or what.



Did you reuse the big firewall grommet from the stock harness?



Anywhere I should watch out for and leave extra bits of slack in the harness?



Any tips on anything would be greatly greatly appreciated





Any good links to some milspec type stuff. I want this thing to look CLEAN and work in a rotary engined enviroment flawlessy for many many years.



All bidness!

-Ben Martin

invest in a quality crimper, use mil-spec terminals[not parts store assortments]



and use banzaiwrap

I use the firewall grommet. You'll need some kind of grommet anyway. I pull the stock harness out and strip it of all that isn't being reused which gives plenty of space for a Haltech harness. I figure out which wires out of the Haltech loom won't be used and pull them back through the sheath and neatly bundle them under the carpet. This keeps them out of the engine bay, makes things look nicer without odd wires hanging, and prevents them from getting baked underhood and being one more thing that can go wrong. Their full length is left intact as well in case they need to be used some day or the owner wants to move the whole deal to a different application. All unused wires get doubled over and shrink wrapped on to itself so they don't accidently ground themselves.



I run the loom right along the firewall. Drop the wires down under the manifold for the injectors and coolant sensor. About 6" later drop the CAS lead down with the air temp sensor. Of course keep the CAS lead away from any "noise". The ignition wires run on around the the firewall to the fender and to the coils.



All the wiring gets wrapped in non adhesive electical tape to keep it bundled and then covered in convoluted tubing for abrasion protection and to keep it looking nice. Some day I will decide to just shrink wrap it all but for now the convolute works well. I use plastic D clamps and rivets to secure the loom. There is really no need for extra slack other than the obvious making sure nothing it stretched tight. Common sense applies.



As far as crimp connectors, I don't use them other than when I absolutely need a ring or spade terminal. Everything gets soldered and double heat shrunk. The terminals I do use I buy bulk from McMaster without insulation. I crimp then solder them and cover the joint with a double layer of shrink wrap.



I just began a Haltech install on a rotary powered 510 a couple hours ago and am taking a break right now. The work is tedious and ends up taking way longer than what you would think. Just take your time and the results will show. Several of my Haltech customers that do their own installs ask me how long it will take. I think they honestly think they can do it in 3-4 hours the first time. It just doesn't even come close to working like that.

good tips ludwig, but a couple questions



by double shrinkwrapping you just do one shrinkwrap and then another exactly overtop of it?



and non-adhesive electrical tape? dunno of any non-adhesive kinds.

Node, get some harness wrap from Banzai. Its great, self-fusing and has a super high temp range.

My 3 Cents on soldering. Done incorrectly it is an inferior connection. A properly designed and laid out harness will eliminate the need to solder. Buy the proper connectors and tools to do the job. Most problems are self induced in the execution of the harness



For an example of how not to solder, look at a Haltech Flying lead kit

Buy this book



http://www.buildersbooks.com/aeroele...connection.htm

Yes on the double shrink wrap. And static wrap was the word I was searching for when I posted before.

my soldering skills are a little weak, but i think a part is due to lack of practice and the shitty $7 iron i have from radio shack. I want to try a little butane torch because I'm very comfortable w/ torchs being that im used to "sweating" pipe being a plumber and all



for stranded wire, I strip about 5/8", then pull them apart a little, and insert the one wire into the other, then twist, and then solder.

I heat up one side of the wire, and solder from the other side in order to make good penetration. sortve like a linemans splice, but w/ stranded wire and solder.

banzai has a point on poor solder joints. If you're trying to solder a hot iron is all important. A larger wattage iron is easier/better to use than something small. It's hard to go too large of wattage for this type of work.

yea, i only have like a 15w or something shitty.



can anyone suggest a good type/model or whatever of soldering iron to get.

do you guys use soldering flux?





btw, I'm going to include the good replies from the same thread on the other RX forums so that there is one hell of a good wiring thread on the forums thanks to everyone who is replying w/ good information.

-Ben Martin

well i just finished installing my E8 last weekend and i say solder every thing. its really not that hard and is a stronger connection with less resistance, when done correctly. just go pick up the largest one from radio shack, 45W i believe. that 15W is much much to small. i have both and the only thing the 15W is good for is rechipping ecu's and soldering on circuit boards, from personal experience. where you dont want alot of heat to avoid melting other connections when you are doing it. i just used the 45W iron to install a stereo whos wires are the same size as the haltech ones and it worked great.



Jrat had a really nice once i used when i did my haltech https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png.

Ikarii, I beg to disagree as do NASA, BOEING, AIRBUS, General Dynamics and a few other people who do it for a living.....



"Crimping is an efficient and highly reliable method to assemble and terminate conductors, and typically provides a stronger, more reliable termination method than that achieved by soldering.



Crimp terminations are available in different styles, depending upon the design application and connectivity requirements.



This section details the generic accept/reject criteria of commonly used crimp termination styles. See 2.02 - 2.10 for specific accept/reject criteria applicable to individual crimp styles"



http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp.../frameset.html

Home Depot will have a decent selection of irons. I personally don't like the trigger guns. They heat up fairly quickly but I like the iron that's hot all the time. A good size (45+ is fine) Weller is an inexpensive investment that should last many years.



Banzai, I'm certainly not saying there is anything wrong with a good crimp connector. They aren't fool proof either. Just like soldering a bad crimp connection is prone to failure. If you use shitty crimpers and butt splices you might as well throw a shitty solder joint on there. A poor connection is a poor connection regardless. I simply don't like the way crimp connectors look. It's more of an esthetics thing for me.

"Crimping is an efficient and highly reliable method to assemble and terminate conductors, and typically provides a stronger, more reliable termination method than that achieved by soldering.



"termination"

solder joints give a hardpoint, and if flexed enough right next to the solder joint they will break the wires.

this is the one thing ive observed from my own soldering experience

ombanzaitips

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...3990&st=100

j9fd3s: um dont wrap the harness until the cars done and running for a while

ive done it a couple of different ways. this is all on the haltechs too



i cut out the haltech fuse box(s) and relays, as the fc/fd's have fuses and relays, for the same thing as the haltechs. this allows the use of the factory wiring diagrams, and eliminates the crappiness of the haltech harness.



i use a mazda firewall boot to pass everything thru. like ludwig, i like to wire it up with the most extra stuff, that way if i decide to add stuff later (efan, wideband, etc) then its no problem. i dont wrap the harness between the ecu and the firewall except for a few zipties/maybe a little anti abrasion covering, it doesnt see heat, or much movement.



i run the harness like ludwig, across the firewall, seems like it minimises heat exposure. i will tend to duplicate the factory wiring runs.



i like to solder the connections as i'm decent at that, and i dont have a crimper thats worth a crap.



i will get everything hooked up and run the car with minimal wrapping (zip ties to keep it a bundle) and make sure that the harness functions, and i dont need to make any changes.



once i know it works, i'll pull it out, and banzai wrap it, sensitive sections will get a currogated cover. i will use the factory mazda rubber grommets and "D" clamps.



basically my ideal harness is the factory harness with haltech plugs on the end....

Thats what we did on my car, about 4 years ago. The factory harness-hybrid has held up great, minus the pack rat a few weeks ago.



I didnt use any crimping, soldered all the haltech connectors and heat-shrinked. Then used gratuitous amounts of high-heat inlsulating wrap.