What does the "Internal Toggle" option in the ignition setup mean? Its not explained in the manual. Haltech E6X software version 8.02. The choices are on, and off. What should I set it to for a stock setup (distributor, multitooth CAS, 24 teeth, 11 offset, 65 trigger angle, aux out set to ignition toggle).



Thanks!

sup man, did you get it running yet? not sure on your question but just wanted to say hello https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

You need the toggle to be on for your application.

If the toggle is not switched on, the trailings will fire wrong and can cause engine damage.





-Ted

Okay so the "internal toggle" AND the aux out "ignition toggle" must BOTH be activated in order to get toggled trailing fire? Gotcha. Shame the manual does not emphasize this.



Thanks for the scoop.



JWX, I'm hoping to start her later today. Gotta put a second alternator/waterpump belt on.

Okay problems...



First of all, it won't let me set this to "ON". When I change it, and hit enter, and reset the ECU, it goes back to "OFF".



Next, the Rotary Trailing Map is now gone... I cannot directly edit my trailing coil split.



Finally, the trailing coils are NOT firing now. They would fire just fine before. I don't know when they quit firing, but now when I start the engine it runs VERY rough, worse than when it was running on one rotor, like its coughing. It dies when I let off the throttle to let it try and idle. But it starts just fine. AFRs are around 10.9 right now when it is being held ~1000 rpm by foot.



I am a little pissed. The software will NOT give me this option any more, I can't get it back, and its not firing my trailing coils any more. I've tried locking the timing, etc.... but still no. The leading are bang on in terms of timing. The trailing *were* fine but now they are not. WTF???

In addition... haltech just replied. The "INTERNAL toggle" option is for 4-cyl piston direct-fire sequential ignition ONLY. All you need to enable trailing ignition toggle for rotaries is to use the aux-out as Ignition Toggle and use the engine type "rotary".



I still have not resolved any of the other problems however, and I've been through my setup with a fine-toothed comb.

Okay. Figured out a bunch of stuff today. The trailing ignitors *were* firing -- its just that at cranking speeds apparently they don't pick up so well with my light. Why they did that once I don't know but I pulled them and checked for spark on 4 other plugs, and they are working. I then pulled T1 and put it near a bolt so it arced and I got a solid enough pulse to check its timing with. Bang on, leading and trailing. So, to go from there, I figured out the software. Apparently changing even the fuel injectors from disabled to enabled or v.v. is enough to cause the software to "forget" the rotary trailing map should be displayed. Go to ignition setup after changing the injector status, change from rotary to piston, apply the change, change back to rotary, apply the change, and presto. The map reappears. Pain in the ass but its a solid workaround. Don't forget to check for any other settings that might have become invalidated by that change - I didn't have any but I always check just in case.



The rough running and dying idle were due to insanely rich mixtures. I tuned them WAY down (from ~7ms to ~1.9-2.1 ms) and wow... although now she's idling around 500 rpm, which doesn't do me any good. But try getting the stocker to happily idle that low! Hah. So now I just need to jack the idle, and probably retune a few of the low speed fuel maps and the coolant temp correction maps etc. and play with it for a few hours and I'll probably get her right about perfect. Its nice to know its a tuning issue and not a problem with the car. Well, I'm about 90% on that.



Mike at Kickyride spent a lot of time on the phone with me helping me out. Props to him as well. I am getting my money's worth with them, and once this car works smoothly I will be very happy. Until then, I'm running out of fingernails.

hmm thats weird. i had problems like that with the e11 and loading maps, it would loose all the settings.



start with about 2.2ms at idle (12-12.8:1 afr) and then by about 2000 rpms it should be in the 14's. combine this with between 0-10btdc (wherever its happy) and then about 10-18btdc by 2000 rpms should have it running real sweet!

good to hear you found out what the problem was https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png