Anyone on here try it. A friend of mine has it on his FC and it works great, costed him a total of 500$ Including the Megasquirt kit, wiring and lm1 wideband.

Megasquirt is a full stand alone, not really a plug and play, but a cut and paste (import tuner said that, its pretty fitting)

It include datalogging.



Im going to run Megasquirt 2 ver3 as soon as Muythaiboxr off rx7club gets the firmware update done to run leading/trailing support.



IMO it is worth the extra work.

My suggestion would be to run the megasquirt 1 daughterboard with MSnS-e at first, just because there is so much support for it, it's proven to work for rotaries, and you can gain more experience with the system, get used to tuning with it, get everything wired etc, and when muythaiboxr finishes the MS-2 code, you can just buy the MS-2 chip and swap it in for the MS-1. Well, thats the route i'll be taking anyway.

Way worth it.



We have a member here (haven't seen a post from him in a little while but I was just looking at his car), with an N/A 6 port block, turbocharged, TII intake manifolds with extra injectors added in the upper bank, and uses a version of the EDIS deal for ignition. In a '79.



What's the point?



Clean install, hauls serious ass, and the driver has more control over the engine than he ever has previous.



It's not for everyone, but it's a great unit IMO.



I use one too.

Very well worth all the extra "cut and paste" work. I am buiding my MS as we speak, using the version 3.0 board and MS1 chip for now. MS2 would add some nice extras once the code is finished. I have heard on more than one occasion that the daughtercard is a pain in the ass.

sorry to bring this from the dead but I've ben reading a lot about the megasquirt and have decided to use it on my T2 swap. I do have a couple of questions though.

How exactly do you control igniton?

I guess my question is which "version" of EDIS should I use to deal with the ignition

you dont use edis. I havent played with the MS2/extra stuff yet, but for MS1/e it is very well documented, and only requires you to solder together an additional LM1815N chip (which i was able to locate on the proto area of the V3 board. Its a very clean install and keeps everything within the case provided.