What do you guys do about broken connectors when you're messing with your engine harness? I can't be the only one who manages to break 10 year old, heat brittled connectors. Yet Mazda or anyone do not sell them. Surely they don't replace the entire harness anytime they break a couple connectors in the service department? I see K2RD sells the correct NEW injector connectors, but I need the crank angle sensor connectors. Mine were baked to ****. The snap on portion of the clips broke when I was taking them off, then the wires broke inside when I tried to strip the insulation.



Anyone know of another car that uses a similar crank angle sensor to an FD? I found almost new injector connectors on a smashed Toyota in the junkyard today, but I didn't find any crank angle sensors.

I remember j9fd3s said he could order the new connectors.. try PM'ing him

yea mike can probably at least give you the correct part numbers for it



kevin.

Alot of the connectors can be found in a junkyard off of other Mazda cars from the mid 90's...protege, 626, etc...I got like 10 connectors from a local junkward for my harness. Cheap and easy. When reinstalling my harness though I broke the black round connector that went into the back of the waterpump housing...so I tried to solder it back together..I hope it stays. If not, I don't know where I'll get one of those. :(



Makes me want a Haltech instead of my PFC since it comes with flying leads to build a brand new harness for all the **** I need and none of the **** I don't.

Doesn't come with the connectors, though. That's what I'm doing. I took a quick junkyard tour on the weekend. Found replacement injector clips off a Toyota, but didn't find a Mazda for the crank angle sensor clips.

any reason for not soldering the wires together...

could always splice later if requiring replacement

i can look in the book, mazda does sell some of the connectors.



mike

Check it out, will ya? Right now I'm using the air pump connector and the blue connector from I think the AWS for CAS connectors. The clips are broken on both of them and they might not stay on.

ok they list 2 possibilities. they are both female 2 pin, the gd1g-76-mf1 looks like the bac valve connector. and the gd1g-76-mf3 looks like the egr valve connector.



mike

I don't think it's the same as either of those. Do you have a picture, by any chance?

mebby, i can try to post it. they arent very good anyways



mike

sOMETIMES THE OLD HARNESSES ARE SO CRAPPED UP THEY WON'T "TAKE" THE SOLDER. jOHN

He He. I've been battling that for the last two weekends, but I won! All the crud (oxidization) ended up on the tip of my soldering iron. Every joint ended up solid, though. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

https://www.nopistons.com/~j9fd3s/al...4c8a30c3ac.jpg



i cant decide if its one of those two



mike

It's neither. The EGR solenoid is closest, but there are 2 of the little notches, and they are on the sides, not 1 on the bottom.

I found 3 of them on Mazda MPV's at the junkyard. If you find one of those you can also get injector connectors off it. On an MPV without the engine, you will likely find 4 injector connectors and 1 CAS connector under the hood, running other systems.



Couple of wrecked Millenia's also had the CAS connector, but they weren't in very good shape.

if you're installing a new harness, theres really no reason to keep the OEM connector anyways. You can easily buy GM style weatherpack connectors, which are of great quality (hermactically sealed) just a bit bulky. At least they're readily available.



Most the ECU's that are not plug-in, have flying lead harnesses you can get and also connector kits you can get, which will include most of the time GM weatherpack connectors that can replace all your OEM connectors.

GM connectors don't fit on Mazda CAS sensors, or injectors.

theres no pigtail coming off the CAS?



I'm used to FC's maybe the FD just has a socket right on the CAS since it's a hall effect type...



on the FC the injectors are just nippon denso, the connectors are easy to find for that (bosch style).

FD injector style.

http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/images/n...rConnector.jpg



FC injector style?

http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/images/o...rConnector.jpg



FD trigger is still reluctor type, not hall effect. Socket is right on the sensor.

ah, everything FD is new to me https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



wouldnt you be better off switching to a more precise trigger anyways though? motronic perhaps?

I'm not sure if a square wave generated from a sine wave is any less precise, I'll have to ask one of the experts at work. We use a sin/cos encoder for our own positioning control units for AC motors, but most other manufacturers use a square wave TTL. Course, with industrial motion control we use 6 tracks instead of 2 like the crank trigger. I'll try to find out which is inherently more accurate. I have a feeling the sin/cos is, just because our company tends to take the high road and damn the extra cost. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Glad you asked that though, cause it caused me to look back through the E11 manual, and I found I had wired the HOME sensor backwards https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683827.gif Thanks!!