I just want to be sure I have everything I need before I start the install on my FC. The Haltech kit comes with some kind of connectors. I don't want to put this one together and have parts left over! I want to hook it up the way it was meant to be hooked up. Someone said the crimping tool to do it right cost $150 or more. What tool is it? Does anyone know? I have found links on how to hook up the tps sensor. Does anyone know how to hook up a wide band o2 to a haltech? I have been ready to install the haltech for almost a year, but I don't want any problems. If there could be a possible problem I want to be prepared for it. Hooking up the injectors and the ignition is also a concern. I have the patience to mess with all the wires I just want to be able to finish once I've started. I am in middle ga. I know I have seen a few members from savannah. What I really need is to see the setup already installed on another FC.

I'dj ust solder and heat shrink tube instead of crimping.



Ignition, wire that into the chassis harness down by where the stock ECU was.

And with injectors juust remember that the color wires are grounds that go into the ECU with the 12v power lead as t he red wire.

Fuel pump wire is black with white stripes.

A crimp connection is better than a soldered connnection. The heat of a solder joint can cause the wire to become brittle and the wicking action of the solder intensifies this effect.



Personally, I prefer to crimp first, then solder lightly over the crimp to ensure a positive seal against corrosion.



I used a normal crimp tool on the Weatherpack connectors and was careful. It did the job well enough.

The MSD tool is decent. Summit has it for around $50. DO NOT SOLDER A CRIMPED JOINT

Been doing it for years. A heat controlled solder joint with a proper iron prevents backflow up the wire and heat-induced brittleness, and also keeps the joint from corroding or working its way loose over time. Is there any particular reason you say this so strongly?

Soldering or Solder-Dipping Will Improve The Connection"



Crimps are designed to work without solder or solder-dipped wire. When solder is present in a crimp, the deformation properties change. When the deformation properties change, metal-flow, cleaning, welding and residual force also change and compromise the mechanical and electrical properties of the crimp. With diminished mechanical properties, the connection may not survive normal uses. Furthermore, as electrical performance diminishes, the perils of static heating arise. Additionally, in some cases, copper wire may become embrittled or solder wicking may affect the flexure strength of the stranded wire. By soldering a crimped connection, the process heat may compromise the crimp.



Insulated terminals play an important role in many electrical devices. Their reliability, performance and low cost result from the design relationship between the wire, terminal and tool. This connection integrity makes them suitable for many applications. By getting back to the basics, designers will likely find a suitable insulated terminal that meets their reliability, performance and cost requirements.



References: THE MECHANICS OF PRESSURE CONNECTIONS J.H. Whitley (Research Division, AMP Incorporated) Dec 3, 1964 SOLDERING & CRIMPING, Various Authors, AMP Incorporated 1950. FUNDAMENTALS OF CONNECTOR DESIGN, AMP Incorporated



Also consider this:



The second-worst connector is a soldered crimp. It's no longer a

gas-tight crimp, and it's a bad stress-relief for a solder joint.

Any chance we can get some pix here of what a proper solder joint and crimped joint should look like. I've been soldering my stereo connections for a few years, but I am never 100% confident that I'm doing it right. For example, sometimes, I might overheat the wire a bit to the point the insulation on the two wires begins to melt a little around the edges.



So, how does one do a proper crimp and a proper solder?

-a

The problem with a crimp is that, as tight as you make it, its still "loose". Its not a metallurgical bond. It doesn't guarantee that over multiple heat cycles it will retain its grip, regardless of how well its designed. Further, there is more opportunity for corrosion, which reduces electrical conductivity orders of magnitude faster than a solder joint will go bad. A solder joint is the most metallurgically robust electrical connection you can make. Its just not always optimal when there is going to be excessive vibration present, or temperatures so high as to make the solder fluid again. I find that your argument does not address the issue of the metallurgical bond properly and does not address the corrosion issue well enough, and I continue to maintain, as an electrical engineer, that a solder joint is perfectly appropriate for use in a car, provided it was done with controlled heat and using noncorrosive solder. I do not recommend a solder joint where the joint itself is going to be under severe and repetitive physical stress, either. But its perfectly appropriate to solder lines together, then heat shrink the connection. Its perfectly appropriate to solder-tap into another line, then heatshrink the connection. Again, from an electrical perspective, the solder joint is preferred due to its reduced resistance and increased reliability compared to a crimp joint.

A PROPERLY performed crimped connection is SUPERIOR to a soldered joint. PERIOD



Thats not my opinion its fact. go count the number of soldered joints in commercial avaition, NASA, Military etc.