So does anybody know what the disposition is for numbers coming off of different brands of dyno's??



Obviously there is going to be a difference in the numbers seen from one type of dyno to another, and one brand of dyno to another. I was just wondering if anybody has had enough experience working with different flavors of Dynometer to give an educated take on common differences between them.





My reasoning is this: It seems that numbers in the UK are generally much lower than numbers in the states. I don't think that is due to the lack of competent tuners though. So I figure it may be the different type of dyno's they use over here (Dyno-Dynamics for the most part).





I'm left scratching my head when I see people with similar (or even less) mods to me pulling MUCH higher numbers.

Have you ever heard of a "mustang dynometer" they are common in the states.



That dyno would give much lower readings than it should have. That is how all mustang dynometers are. I don't know if you guys have that kind of dyno in the UK. I would very rarely see that dyno say a car was over 200hp (only people with tuned cars would bother to pay to use it so... yeah)



I remember someone tested the same car on a different dyno (I don't remeber exacts) but there was like a 15% higher power difference.

Dunno, I don't think my guys were using a "Mustang" dyno though. The dyno my car was tuned on (even AFR with a power band not breaking up at the top is all that really matters in the end anyway, correct?) was a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer (they are the Australian ones).



I'm really just jealous/curious how guys in the states can pull 350+ with similar mods to me, when I'm only getting 325 at the wheels. Or does a front mount REALLY make that much of a difference (I should think not, so long as it has minimal pressure loss and keeps efficient cooling..)?

If the car runs well and is fun to drive, does it really matter? 350 minus 325 divided by 350 is like 7%. Not a big difference, given environmental variables and measurement error.



What sort of intercooler are you running, if not front mount?

Yeah, in the end the HP number is just that, a number. She runs well, idles fine (most of the time) and kicks you in the balls when switched to the "Hi" setting on the Profec..



Really just curious (for the whole "my pee-pee is almost as big as your pee-pee" factor) what, if any, was the normally recognized spread of numbers from one type/brand of dyno to another.





I have a GReddy that is mounted up in the stock location, it's pretty much the same size as a stocker though a good bit thicker. I'm wanting a V-mount because I'll be able to turn the boost up while keeping temp's at about 7 degrees above ambient (at least the guy that tuned my car was pulling temps like that while running around the Nurburg). I figure I'll go the A/I route as well, just to be sure (at which point the boost will DEF be going up to see what these BNR's can really do!)

I have a bit listed on my web page on this.



But an un doctored Dyno Dynamics machine (not molested to make it read high numbers like on a dynojet guessing/exagerator 3000 machine) will read vastly lower always. The DD system is very close to reality *again read my site*... the ACTUAL power delivered to the wheels as I derive from first principles via top end VBOX analysis is only matched by a Dyno Dynamics machine and this tells me they are closest to reality, as all of my power analysis are backed up by multiple real world cross checks as well https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



We did 600+rwhp years ago on a 13B running RR water injection and always on regular pump petrol (probably 700rwhp+ on a dynojet lol), it was that much power that the OEM gearbox explodes when power is put down in 3rd gear!!!! the chassis distorts when you have grip and it feels like you are in the shuttle going into space https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



I think some of the power figures are dubious at best on most of the other systems, cause whenever I test any car and tell the owners the real power they have at the rear wheels least it can be checked against multiple other basic physics calculations (or complex ones!) and it comes out perfectly legitimate https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif the others well.......... LOL, it makes for a nice dyno sheet SUPRA STYLE YO!

Yet Inertia dyno's are not affected by heat.

I hear this stuff all the time, whats not compared is how the dyno is setup. Is the weatherstation in the cell or in an air conditioned space? How was the car tied down, how tight was it tied down?

Its funny that my dynojet numbers were more or less spot on with the mustang numbers from my P-port car, even the graphs were the same shape with maybe a 3 hp variance at best. Locally the numbers we saw between all the makes were all pretty damn close using the same cars as reference.

Its just a relative number to work from, I am not gonna put my money any dyno's number as a true carved in stone number, they all have their problems, be it software, contact patch, attachment method, cooling method etc etc. In the end, you adjust to your tools, and make them work for you , be it a torque wrench or a dyno. Lots of people think you can't load cell tune on a 248, but you adapt and find a way to do it.

And the article floating around about dynojet correction is bogus, email dynojet as to why that guy said what he said and they will tell you.