Just blew my new motor. Can it be that my timing is too advanced? how do i check and how do i retard?



Also when is the anti-detonation device coming out.. or is it already out... where can i get it from....



whats the difference between this anti-detonation device and the J&S knock system??



Also please tell me how to run-in a new engine with old housings in good shape...



Also I am getting the Rotary aviation master rebuild kit... Any reviews? Along with the bruce turrentine rebuild video.. I am a first time rebuilder any precautions...



thanks

basically take your time rebuilding. I would watch the rebuild video before you even open up your engine. Watch it 2 or 3 times and familiarize yourself with it. Also having a shop manual will be very handy. There are a bunch of measurements that you will need to take and tolerances.



you will need feeler guages. you'll also need a micrometer and some other tools that are explained in the video to check runout on your housings.



Make sure that your engine is blown first with a compression test, sometimes a loose vacuum line will simulate a blown engine.



As for break-in when you finish rebuilding.. i'm pretty hardcore on that.



I let my run for 5 min and then shut it down and dumped the oil.

replaced oil, drove it for 100 miles and then did another oil change.

do not go over 4000rpm or into any boost until u reach 500 miles.. then do another oil change.



then u can rev up to about 5.5-6000 rpms with 2-5psi of boost. at 1000 miles do another oil change, also check ur spark plugs. Then u can start to have fun, gradually taking it higher and higher on boost and rpm. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

That's a pretty hardcore breakin. If you want a easy one do every thing he said till 500 miles then go for it. That's what i did and i'm still running 15k miles later. I even had the engine detonate a while back around 10k miles when one of my ignition blocks in my PFC went to 280. Dont know how it happened. We dont even know how that could work. But the engine is still living. I may have the 1'st detonation tolarent rotary, but i doubt it. I heard when the engine is new it wont break the apex seals because they are still seated deep in the rotor. Good luck with the rebuild. Oh just as a side note i like to change my oil at least every 1000 miles, i woudl recommend the same.

The knock sensor on the PFC is not trustworthy.

That's what i keep hearing, so where do i get one that is?

oh and i was knocking for sure you could hear it.

this is 100% true, what you see on the pfc is taken from the stock sensor. it's not accurate, and not really good for anything.



oh and as far as "engine break-in" it all depends on who and who builds your engine. My car did 10 dyno pulls, with 200 miles on the engine https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

My pfc showed 162 on the knock 5-6 times before it went...



How can i reduce knock??