[quote name='Signal 2' date='Jul 20 2005, 06:21 PM']If you're not sure how old the coolant is, that's probably not a bad idea. Water-Wetter...OK. But as you've figured out, the OEM temp guage is pretty worthless in these cars, really no better than just an "idiot light". Instead of wondering, why not just get a decent aftermarket guage so you know for sure?


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I believe the coolant is about 14,000 mi old. The engine was rebuilt at 92,000 and now I have about 106,000. I was planning on changing it sometime this summer. Do you think there has been any major engine damage if the needle has never gone anywhere near the red? The most it's gone up is probably an 1/8 of an inch, then the fans come on.

The red zone on the stock water temperature gauge is also called the 'new motor zone'..



I linearized my stock temperature gauge, it goes up and down all over the place. I know that anything between the two normal marks is fine with a 5% margin for safety. If mine gets to the top normal mark, it's time to shut her down.



My temps do go up at idle.

[quote name='base94montego' date='Jul 21 2005, 08:16 AM']I believe the coolant is about 14,000 mi old. The engine was rebuilt at 92,000 and now I have about 106,000. I was planning on changing it sometime this summer. Do you think there has been any major engine damage if the needle has never gone anywhere near the red? The most it's gone up is probably an 1/8 of an inch, then the fans come on.


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If it's going near the red, it sure sounds like you got a cooling issue. I'm no guru, but I guess I'd start with the cheap things first. There are probably others, but these come to mind:

1. Pull the belly pan and drop your A/C condenser (but don't disconnect it) so you can access the front of the radiator and make sure it's clean. Blow it out or wash it out as necessary. Be sure you oil cooler(s) are clean too.

2. Buy some cheap foam to cut and stuff into any openings that might allow air to go around (instead of through) your radiator/condenser.

3. Make sure both fans are working properly.

4. 14k isn't too much on the coolant, but you could probably flush and replace. I'm in the midwest and run 50/50 distilled water.

5. Replace thermostat....maybe it's sticking?

6. IMHO, Miata or FC thermoswitch is a good idea.

7. Kinda tedious, but with a small pick, you can straighten any bent fins on your condensor, radiator and oil cooler(s).

[quote name='Sinful7' date='Jul 22 2005, 10:10 AM']The red zone on the stock water temperature gauge is also called the 'new motor zone'..



I linearized my stock temperature gauge, it goes up and down all over the place. I know that anything between the two normal marks is fine with a 5% margin for safety. If mine gets to the top normal mark, it's time to shut her down.



My temps do go up at idle.


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Exactly, do what Sinful did or get an aftermarket gauge. The factory temp gauge is a dummy gauge. It will sit at the exact same point mid-way 90% of the time after the car has warmed up. If it goes up even slightly the damage is already done.

[quote name='sweet7' date='Jul 24 2005, 02:51 PM']Exactly, do what Sinful did or get an aftermarket gauge. The factory temp gauge is a dummy gauge. It will sit at the exact same point mid-way 90% of the time after the car has warmed up. If it goes up even slightly the damage is already done.


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So you are saying if it goes anywhere above the midway my engine has been damaged? Mine has never even gotten close to the top white line, or the red so I'm hoping there hasn't been any permanent damage yet.

[quote name='base94montego' date='Jul 29 2005, 07:37 AM']So you are saying if it goes anywhere above the midway my engine has been damaged? to the top white line, or the red so I'm hoping there hasn't been any permanent damage yet.


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Maybe not. You can't go back and undue what's been done anyway. But your car is running hot. Just do what has already been suggested, so it won't be repeated.

[quote name='Signal 2' date='Jul 29 2005, 05:05 AM']Maybe not. You can't go back and undue what's been done anyway. But your car is running hot. Just do what has already been suggested, so it won't be repeated.


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Precisely. Thats not always the case, but I've seen it go down that way a few times. Also had it happen to me. If you ever see that factory gauge move above the "normal" level, it would be smart to shut her down.

[quote name='sweet7' date='Aug 1 2005, 05:09 AM']Precisely. Thats not always the case, but I've seen it go down that way a few times. Also had it happen to me. If you ever see that factory gauge move above the "normal" level, it would be smart to shut her down.


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Well I finally fixed the problem. I took my car to Peter Farrel super cars and they set up my fans so they are running all the time. My guage has not moved since, even when sitting in traffic on hot days.

[quote name='base94montego' date='Aug 8 2005, 01:59 PM']Well I finally fixed the problem. I took my car to Peter Farrel super cars and they set up my fans so they are running all the time. My guage has not moved since, even when sitting in traffic on hot days.


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Mmmm. Did they say why you were running hot? Did you or PFS try anything else to try to bring the temps down? There's a reason your car is running hot. Unless your living in Death Valley, or maybe have an engine that's extremely modded, it shouldn't be necessary to run your fans full time for the street.

IMHO, that's not fixing the problem, that's just treating the symtom. The underlying problem could get worse and the "full time" fans may not able to compensate forever.

[quote name='Sinful7' date='Jul 22 2005, 02:10 PM']The red zone on the stock water temperature gauge is also called the 'new motor zone'..



I linearized my stock temperature gauge, it goes up and down all over the place. I know that anything between the two normal marks is fine with a 5% margin for safety. If mine gets to the top normal mark, it's time to shut her down.



My temps do go up at idle.


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whats the process to linearized the stock guage again? I cant find it anywhere anymore