Whats up guys.



I currently drive a 1997 prelude, and was looking into purchasing a 3rd generation Rx-7.



I had some questions and am in need of some advice.



1. how much reliability issues are there w/Rx-7's?? i.e. what should I look out for when buying a rx-7(known problems etc, also I have heard of issues w/the "apex" seals...I have a good idea of what they are, but how hard are they to replace, cost etc.)



2. what is the best year/model of RX-7 to get? (for example, certain years of preludes are better because of curb weight/gearing etc...) According to carpoint 93 rx-7's are the lightest, is there any truth to this? Also if someone can explain the difference between the touring and base model etc.



3. what is the best route to go...build a new rotary motor?? or build the one currently in the car. reason being I see many RX-7's for dirt cheap (relatively) w/motor issues, and many w/new mazda warrantied motors.



I don't plan to boost much more than stock, after driving a prelude, Im sure I will be satisfied easily w/the rx-7's performance. I really want to build the car for reliability (I know that is not normally spoken w/rx-7's, but its possible right?) and plan on doing alot of auto x, I want to stay w/the twin sequential turbo set up, I'm not considering single turbo.



any info would really help, sorry for the huge amount of questions (probobly relatively simple to you guys.)



Thanks in Advance!

D



oh ya, one more thing. Does the F.N.G on the side stand for ****** new guy?? LMAO

1. Reliability issues: are usually include, but are not limited to, cracking Air Seperator Tanks, deteriorating water seals (keep the coolant out of the chamber) and lean conditions that lead to detonation and blown apex seals. Blown apex seals and water seals warrant a new "remanufactured" engine, or a rebuild of your current engine.



EDIT: Many report problems with the sequential turbo system, but the system is neither unreliable nor difficult to work on. An intimate knowledge of the vacuum control system and a general understanding of engine mechanics and turbo mechanics is all that's required to troubleshoot these problems.



2. I'm not sure about the weights, but I know the '93 model year came with less insulation and stiffer suspension than the '94+, making the car somewhat less "civilized". Base RX7's are the lightest, but are devoid of everything (except leather). Touring RX7's have a sunroof (metal in '93, glass in '94+) and a Bose CD sound system. R1/R2 models have front and rear spoilers, no sunroof, dual oil coolers, a front strut tower brace, brake cooling ducts from the front lip spoiler, stiffer suspension and synthetic "suede" seats (Read: cloth).



3. It really may be irrelavant which route you take. Some people just happen to have, what seem to be, stronger motors than others. I hate to say it, but chances are that you will be rebuilding a motor sometime during your ownership. Good cars to look for should have been properly cared for (body is rust/ding free, leather in good shape, CD player works), that also have an aftermarket rebuilt motor. Motors built by companies like KD Rotary or Rotary Performance or Pettit are usually very high quality builds, and those shops know the tricks of the trade to beef up the inside of your motor. Many of these aftermarket rebuilders offer extended warranties on their motors, as opposed to Mazda's 1 year reman warranty.



4. RX7 and "reliable" are surely interchangable words, if the motor is properly cared for.



5. The sequential turbo system can be very tricky to master, with boost transition and low spool time. Many Autox'ers convert their stock twins to a non-sequential operation for predictability.





Please, anyone correct me if I'm wrong!

Oh, yeah...

6. Your the F*ckin New Guy. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

HAHA, thanks for all the info man.



anyone else have any other advice/opinions on whats best?

RX-7's are like crack :yum: , once you get one the speed is ok, For a little while. Then you'll want more and more.

hehe...I know what you mean man.



I had a bunch of plans for my prelude...but college limited my spending$$$..i.e. I couldn't afford the crack!

if u cant afford a prelude, u cant affort a 7. (my reasoning is, so many honda parts out there for dirt cheap, not many 7 parts u'll find out there for dirt cheap) if u dont think u'll be able to handle the amount of money that goes into taking care of a third gen. look into buying a TII. pretty cheap and with little mods u can go really fast.

Good call! About the cheapest replacement part on the FD is the brake pads, and those are $50 a pair...



$1400 door panels...



$700 seats



$1800 motors



$95 AST's



Pretty much every single thing on that car costs a FORTUNE.

$1800 motors?? jesus that is cheap. H22 motors are about 2grand...I am assuming the price does'nt include turbos?



I am graduating this semester, so I should be making alot more $$. Preludes seem to be the most expensive Honda you can buy...so I don't think the adjustment will be too much.

I'm needing one of those..