I had my fd rebuilt on 9/30/03 at alamo rotary in san antonio tx spent $10,000 & now my ride is back in storage. I them rebuild it with a street port, 300mm rotors & seals new efini twin turbos, water pump pulsation damper, act clutch & pressure plate, misc hoses & fluids. drove the car for about 9,000 miles. the sits in my garage quite frequently cause ive been deployed (us navy) well long story short i was doing 70 on my way home when i got to a red light & the car started to idle extremly rough 200-300 rpms then it ran like **** ever since it feels like its running on 1 rotor? could it be an ignition problem? did the motor go bye bye? i also notice a sheen of oil on the rear rotor housing.i checked the oil level after i noticed it, & it was full. i changed the plugs & wires last month. if any one can help me id appreciate it. thanks

pull your plugs and have someone turn the engine over for you. Do you hear even "whooshes" or do some of them sound different? Get a compression check to verify..

alamo rotary..... god what a bunch of screw up's tito is a freakin loser and i hope he reads this.

hey crass so i guess you dealt with (THE HOME OF THE TEXAS 3 ROTOR!) HUH. What kind of experience did you you have with him? I thought he was pretty helpful when i dealt with him but then again so were the guys who burned me in chicago he talked me out of getting a single turbo & get the 99 twins there aight but i kinda wish i had opt'ed for the single hell i,d rather have a running FD with NO turbo right now. well i'm just pissed i blew over $10 G's & my car is back in the garage. im starting too loose the love i had for these rides..

i pulled the plugs cranked it over & got three constant swoohes almost like a train rollin down the tracks i'm not sure if thats a thing or not all i know is that it runs like ****.. if i get a compression gage for a crappy piston engine what should i read on the gauge? do i check both leading & trailing from both the front & rear rotors? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

wow i have not posted in a while...



anyways i just wanted to say do not give up! it will all be worth it in the end trust me!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

mandatory post....



"check the map sensor vac line"



lol

I'd be throwing bricks through windows.

Do the compression test and then if that is good start looking at the ignition coils or ignition coil harness.

cant get any readings during compression test. i bought a comp gauge piston specific removed the check valve removed all the plugs tried leading & trailing of both the front & rear rotors. gauge doesnt even move. what am i missing? without any gauges i can here three consecutive swoohes i tried the thumb thing on the spark plug holes & it didnt budge my thumb. all help greatly appreciated.

leave the trailing plug in, and put the tester on the leading

the thumb test was my next suggestion. If you can hold your finger there....You have a blown engine... sorry dude. Just for piece o' mind... haul it to the mazda place and have them do a comp test.

You did leave the trailing plug in each housing in right?

yeah i left both trailing plugs in. removed the check valve from the tester & cranked it over about 5 turns & the needle on the gauge fluctuated a bit but not much. am i supposed to hold the throttle wide open when i crank it over like our piston counterparts?

assuming my fd has a blown engine just wondering how much i can get 4 her. she has fresh paint (bright red) with a new 99 front bumper lights & lower lip, 2 brand spanking new yokohama avs100 tires mounted on the stock chrome mazda rollers. apexi dual intake, apexi gt spec catback exhaust, brembo slotted & drilled rotors w/ hawk pads, new tint, interior is clean non smoker very little wear on drivers seat stock bose radio still functional cd player does'nt work & volume & bass controls are missing the little plastic buttons. rx7 aluminum scuff plates

when motor was rebuilt i replaced the motor mounts, water pump & all hoses.she is a 93 w/ street port 3mm atkins seals, msd 10mm wires, new twins 99 version & act pressure plate & disc. body has 108,000 motor had 7,102 when she stopped running. car still starts but runs sluggish & idles extremly rough. i'll post pictures soon & have all reciepts for everything mentioned car was never abused & oil was changed every 2,000 miles i changed the plugs twice. once after break in & at 5,000 miles. if i get enough interest i might let her go. or if theres anyone out there prefferably in texas that can hook me up with a good deal on a 3 rotor conversion $36,000 is just too rediculous not mentioning any names of course. (ALAMO ROTORY san antonio, tx). i'm sure somebodys done a conversion (A GOOD RELIABLE ONE) for at least half that.

thanks guys

Da Bears!

Yes, full throttle. Keep trailing plug in. check both rotors..



Put the valve back in the tester and see what the maximum reading you get.

The purpose of taking out the valve is to see if the 3 pulses are even.



If both rotors are abruptly died at the same time after 9k, then its unlikely the build was the cause. Especially if you have no compression at all on both rotors.



Post the results of your maximum readings, and if the pulses are even.

hey guys heres some pics of my gurl

Can you run a street port on stock ECU ?

I didn't see it listed on your mods.

aight i'm gonna give it another go & post the results shortly.

I was told i would'nt have any problems. she ran stong for the 9k that i put on her i've yet to find out whats making her feel sick.

I did a quick research and some peeps are running a street port with stock ECU, but they claim as long you keep it in the stock boost levels, you should be ok. What was your boost patterns

i ran her at stock boost levels

I did the compression test & heres the verdict.



3 pulses on the front rotor

1 pulse on the rear

90+ psi on the front rotor

about 30 psi on the rear



Memo to all rotor heads if you decide to go with a street port & 3mm seals upgrade your ecu, fuelpump, & injectors. I just blew a little over 10k & on my rebuild at ALAMO ROTORY where there motto is & i qoute! ("THE DIFFERENCE IS EXPERIENCE") they told me ill be aight running stock boost. well my rear rotor thought otherwise!

Now accepting offers for 93 tt fd! unless i can find someone willing to take on a 20b project

I would be throwing bricks through windows like sweet7 said. Do they have warranties on the rebuilds? They should be paying for that, when they said you would be fine.



Sorry for the luck.

how much?

Accepting all ofers & trades welcome.

What's your mod list now?

mods are: streetport, 3mm rotors, 99 spec efini twin turbos, msd race wires, act street/strip pressure plate & disc, apexi dual intake, apexi gt spec exhaust ( all parts above have under 10k on them. car is currently back at alamo rotory i took it last night to see why she crap out on me. but im still considering letting her go. maybe do the ebay thing?

i have all reciepts for every thing mentioned above.

You said you were running stock boost, but you didn't mention a boost gauge or boost controller. Are you sure it was actually at 10psi always?



Dave

Blitz boost controller/turbo timer & apexi boost gauge gauge

I GOT THE MOTOR APART & I NEED 2 ROTOR HOUSINGS, 1 INTERMEDIATE HOUSING, & 1 ROTOR. IM SURE IF I GET IT REBUILT ITS GONNA BE EASILY OVER $5 GRAND UNLESS ANYONE HAS A 20B FOR SALE IVE GOT THE CASH..

so what exactly happened to the motor?

flattened all 3 springs on the rear rotor. all the side seals & apex seals are good it seems like she sucked something up missed up the rotor housing, rear housing, & rotor. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Which springs? What springs were used originally in the build/rebuild?

why dont you guys buy rebuild dvds and do it yourself? could save yourself a few bob considering the dvds cost like $60



Peace

Psycho_Dad

I thought everyone in San Antonio knew not to go to Alamo Rotary. :(