First, a mod list. 1994 Touring VR with the following:



GREDDY TD0620G Single Turbo Kit

GREDDY Blowoff Valve

GREDDY Profec B

GREDDY Turbo timer

GREDDY Intercooler

GREDDY Elbow

APEXI-Power FC+Commander

20B Fuel Pump

Magnecor 10mm wires

Autometer Boost gauge

Autometer Fuel gauge/lightshow

Racing Beat Dual Exhaust

Downpipe

Mid-Pipe

ACT 6 Puck Clutch

Kuhmo Tires Front/Rear

Slotted/Drilled Brembo Rotors & Hawk Pads

New Wiring Harness

Front Brake Calipers, Lower-Intake Manifold, Upper-Intake Manifold & Throttle-Body are all polished

Double throttle Modification has been done to the UIM

Aluminum Radiator

Aluminum AST



What I'm trying to determine is what are the various temperatures that need to be watched during hard driving, and what the acceptable ranges for those temperatures are. Right now I'm simply watching water temp on the FC. I was told recently that intake temperature needs to be monitored in some way, as my intercooler may not be up to par for the type of driving I do. If this is accurate, what is the best way to monitor that temperature, and what are the consequences to it getting too high? I have also been told I need to pick up an EGT gauge and an oil temperature gauge for hard driving. If so, what are acceptable ranges?



The area I typically play with cars and bikes is about a 10 mile stretch where the car will be run in the boost for extended periods of time. On my first outing in that environment with the car I reached 103C with the car after about 7 miles or so and chose to back down due to not knowing what safe temperature ranges are, and possibly not having enough information in the cockpit due to lack of gauges. If I am nearing the limits of water temp at 103C, what are my options for controlling this temperature? Do I need to spring for a more heavy duty radiator, or are there other options?



So to summarize, I need to know what temperatures to monitor, what the safe ranges are, and any additional cooling related mods I should do to prep the car for this type of driving.



Thanks for any information provided.

One more small question:



Is the air temperature reading on the FC reflective of intake temperature? If so, where is the sensor located, and is this an accurate enough reading to be reliable versus a manual underhood reading?

the intake temps on the power fc is pretty accurate and it measures the temp of the air going through the intake not the underhood temp, the sensor is located right under the upper intake manifold, im pretty sure that the connector for it is blue, cant miss it

those temps are pretty high up there...... make sure your fans are working and you have enough coolant in there.

What is an acceptable intake temperature range under hard driving conditions?



I've been told that 103C is a pretty acceptable water temperature, but I'd like to get someone to give a number that I can use for a limit to avoid any chance of damage. No one seems to know what an acceptable range really is.

As for water temp. Most of the track guys shut down at 110c. I know I do. 103c shouldn't be a problem at all. I will also say on the track my Intake temps reach somewhere between 60-70c which is pretty hot, (ambient temp was about 90F), but I usually only run about 10psi on the track, and I also have BNR S3's, so my temps are probably alittle hotter than most single temps, thats for coolant and air.



Mine on the track usually gets up to 103-104 after 2-3 laps, then it takes a while to get much hotter, but if it is very hot outside it will reach 110 near the end of the session.



If you haven't relocated your battery, that helped mine out a whole lot. Maybe about a 70/30mix coolant/water with some water wetter.



You are probably ok with temps.

This might just be a tad off topic, but my thermo class got me thinking about temperature control in engines... Now I know that heat is the natural enemy of the rotary, but does anyone know exactly what level of heat becomes dangerous... And not simply "overheating." Plus, does anyone know at what pressure the coolant system runs at?

I'll add my 2 cents..



Intake temps are questionable on stock location. I believe that heavy casted Aluminum UIM could retain heat and could read much higher temp then what it actually is. For this reason, some people relocate the temp sensor somewhere else. I personally think it really doesn't matter too much unless you are hard core/high HP/ trying to get most out of your engine/ fine tuner.



Also If you are a PFC user, you could change the temp when your cooling fans kick in. But you must have Datalogit in order to change that.



In my opinion, oil temp is more important than coolant. By the time your temp gauge reads too high, its too late. Even with aftermarket gauge, most people place the sensor in a location where it doesn't matter too much. Remember the hottest part of the engine is the rear rotor and most temp sensors are placed in the front. If you are worried about temp, get an oil temp gauge and watch the oil temp. This is what I did when I blew my coolant seal and had to drive 200 miles back to my house. I didn't watch my coolant but watched my oil temp. When my oil hit too high, I pulled over and cooled down. When the engine was broken down, all parts were still in spec. I hit max reading on PFC (coolant).