Ok I searched and could not find anything on this problem I have. When the car is idling cold and you rev it the revs will go up then drop and the car shuts off. Once it is warm you can rev it and it will go back to idle speed. Sometime while driving the revs will drop and the car will cut off. My mods are in my sig. Anybody have any ideas?

bad idle control valve maybe

Whens the last time you changed the plugs?

health of your battery?

I will check icv and the plugs, they havent been changed since i got the car about 5k miles ago. Battery is is very good condition. Thanks guys

change them plugs!

Check/change the plugs as that's a decent amount of miles to do that and an oil change (obviously). Also, did you do anything to the car to disconnect the battery in a while? Maybe need to do your idle learn on your pfc again possibly.



T.c.

Ok the plugs are changed and so is the idle control valve. Also adjusted the tps. Now after some adjusting of the tps the car ran fine. Then I shut the car off and started it again and the idle was bouncing and then it shut off. Also when the car shut off there was a buzzing sound coming from the idle control valve (this also happened with the old one). It started to rain so we had to stop. Do you think adjusting the tps some more would solve it? Do you think the power fc has anything to do with it?

i dont see why the programming on the PFC would change by itself

How do you redo the idle adjustment on the power fc?

Ok here's an update: The car idles better and is driveable now. BUT it runs really rich and there is a hesitation around 4-6k under boost. Brother adjusted the tps, but he went with the voltages of somebody else. Does anybody know what the factory specs are?

anybody?

as much work as you and your brother do on this car...why don't you have a work shop manual yet? or at least know where to find one online?? hmmm... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



should be everything you ever wanted to know about the TPS



https://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y2...p/93aec082.jpg



good luck

Thank you!! I know, I'm working on getting that shop manual lol.

Ok once the full range with pedal depressed is within spec nothing else is. When everything else is in range the full range when pedal depressed is not. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif Could the tps be bad? Please help we are going insane over here.

I'd take a shot in the dark and say it could very well be if you haven't changed anything else on the car and it randomly just started this. You didn't install a stereo or anything else randomly like that and now it just stopped working correctly has it?



T.c.

It has nothing to do with spark plugs and tps, It look like the computer is acting up maybe not seeing a load or a sensor, ISC is usually the case or there is another sensor call stop light sensor when comrs to a stop and the clutch is depress it make the sensor sends a signal to the ecu to rev up the engine. Also according to way Mazda desgin the 3rd it does not need any adjustment, it's different from the 2nd gen tps which is adjustable.

Thanks Rx7aholic. I read somewhere that there is a differance in the autoa nd manual tps, I'm using the auto one. This problem started when the auto to manual swap was completed.

I don't really know what Rx7aholic is talking about...as the 3rd gen TPS does need to be calibrated. The CAS does not (w/PFC but does with other stand alones, MoToC/Haltech etc)...but for 2nd gens they do, I think he is a little confused.



typically I would say bad readings not in spec means the sensor is bad...but, since you have auto-5sp swapped, there is more to the story.



Attachment 20849



the section I have added is for the AT controller...did you remove this computer?



pin 2T on the controller reads off the wide range lead. This could be affecting your calibration. How far out of spec are we talking here?