Ok so me and my dad went out for a bit of a cruise just after getting a new clutch and flywheel fitted, along with main oil seal and an oil seal on the turbo somewhere.



Anyway, we got about 1/8 mile from the house, and the coolant low light came on, switched the engine straight off, topped up.. no problem from there.



Three or four days later, we done the same thing again- same thing happened. No problems on the rest of the journey.



Done it quite a few times since and it has done the same thing, and just recently its been dumping water on the drive too not a/c.



Looked on scuderiaciriani.com and it says its likely to be a vacuum leak somewhere between the rad cap, ast and expansion tank.



Just wondered if anybody had similar problems? or knew of a quick fix?? The exhaust doesnt steam excesively and it doesnt smell of burnt coolant https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Sorry Charlie https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png but you need a new engine, your seals are cooked man.

Of coarse your not going to want to belive me , but seeing as mine just went out last year I am now an expert on bad o ring/coolant seals in the engine.

You need to rebuild or get a new engine.

Here is some proof to back up what I say..



http://www.fd3boost.com/my_project_page2.htm



http://www.fd3boost.com/Troubleshoot_oringfailure.php



I hate to be the bearer of bad news man.

Sorry about your luck. Let me guess the car has somewhere near 60k miles?

You can pressure test the coolant system and see if it still holds a constant pressure, if it doesnt then that is proof. You can also do the visual test, after the car is at running temps SAFETLY open the filler neck and check for tiny air bubbles. That is another tell tale sign. Also if you are seeing exsessive white smoke when you first start the car or if the car has a very rough idle when first started. If the car starts pissing coolant on the ground (which you say it does)

These are all signs of a broken coolant seal.



-Dave

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif update....





the car now has starting problems- im guessing wet plugs on 1 of the rotors https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif so it seeems as though its going to be the inevitable o-ring failure and you were right dave... thanks https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

Man, that's got to suck.

it sure does.... i guess im gonna undertake the rebuild though. It cant be that hard.



Just need some info on removal/refitting of engine and doing the rebuild itself. Aren't there a couple of videos available? which ones would you guys reccomend? would be even better if they were available on DVD otherwise i have to fork out for an NTSC video player too as we run PAL over here in the uk https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

You sound line you're F' as stated by FD.....

I had the same problem and it turned out to be there was a tiny leak on one of the plastic end tanks on the POS OEM radiator....replaced it with the Fluidyne - same symptoms though....I thought I was screwed also, however, you problems sound more severe than mine.....



Mine has been fine since the rad R&R.



GEB.

95K on original block - living on borrowed time baby!