Ok i am feeling a bit gutted at the moment, I have just rebuild my Motor and not the first engine i've built i may add, i've forget to put the Rubber Seals under the Primary Injectors.



In your opinion does this sound about right for the sort of Symptoms, It runs but takes a bit of starting (like an Air leak) and once it is running its ok but only when you hold it on the Throttle (Won't idle).



I don't belive it i had just finished fitting the new Motor and i was Tidying up and noticed the Injector seals on the floor (it was an OMG!!! moment)



Do you think these Symptoms are due to this? Or maybe another Fault is Looming.

Ok, Bit of an Update. I have spent all day fitting two new Primary Fuel Injector seals (Not a nice job) only to find its still Flooding and won't idle.



I tightened the Throttle cable up and started it (so it idled at 1500) and ran it for a good 30 mins, every thing seems to work fine (well apart from the Oil presure gauge which i some how have damaged the wire??)



So now i'm looking for a fault that can cause a bad idle and flooding?

did you install the inj. fuel diffusers?

Yes, Dumb i know but i paid for it when i put the seals in today and its still not running properly.



I need to leave it for a day, I've spent most of this week carfully building it up and fitting it (its not gone to plan), The best bit is i thought "Did i put the Seals under the Injectors??" as i was fitting the starter then as i was getting out from under it i saw the two rubber seals in whats left of the Gasket kit........ F**King DUMB!!!! I don't belive it, Blond Moment!!!!!!



Now god only knows what i've done, am at that stage where you've spent two days in the Cold getting rained on and not got any Closer to fixing it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif All i can say is its NOT a Vac leak, so thats one down, Try The Ecu Codes tomorow and see where that takes me.



I'm looking for ideas to try at the moment.

TPS signal is off ? check calibration.Injectors do get stuck also.

Usually, its something simple and when you find it, you will hate yourself. I had seq turbo issue 3 years ago and took me 3 vac jobs to realize it was 2 lines mis plugged.. I almost killed myself for not finding out sooner...



The point is.. Take your time going thru all your vac lines, wires, etc etc..

The thing is with the Vac lines i replaced them one by one so i can't see them being too out of wack, My plan today is to Pull the Upper inlet again and get a mate to give the Vac lines a once over (often its possable to miss something realy ovious so its good to get opinions) then i'm going to try geting the ECU fault codes, if all this don't work i'm going to check all the Grounds and stuff like the TPS is correctly set up.



If all that don't work i'm going to kick it and get very Drunk https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif

This may sound daft too, But it was acting like the Timing was out, is it possable to plug the Crank position sensor's in the wrong way roung (The two plugs look very simalar??)



Or do you think i'm experiancing the Limp mode (some thing is giving a bad or no signal and the ecu has made everything go rich?) But if thats the case i don't understand why it won't idle?

Is there any one clued up on the Codes? I have just done the Ten Bridge thing and Multi metered B+/Fen, the Meter just reads power all the time so it's basicly the Power is on all the time.



Any ideas what this means?

Ok after searching i've found this.





Diagnostic code: Turn key to "ON" and count number of flashes and pauses.



1.) Remains on} Damaged diagnostic module or poor connection of diagnostic module connector



2.) Flashes 3 times} Open circut or poor connection of power source circuit



3.) Flashes 5 times} Damaged D-sensor (D-sensor ON)



4.) Flashes 10 times} Damaged diagnostic module (system-down fuse burnt)



5.) Flashes 4 times} Damaged S-sensor



6.) Flashes 6 times} Damaged air-bag module or poor connection of clock spring connector



7.) Flashes 9 times} Open circuit between diagnostic module and D-sensor.





So as my car is remaining on should i be looking at the ECU/Earths/conections?

I guess you don't have an PFC??



Do you have a FSM? All the codes are in the manual.

What I would do is check all your connections and also the harness clips on each sensor. Anything thats not connected will read code and could cause the car to go into limp mode. My suggestion is to get an PFC as its so much easier to check your sensors as you could read the voltage off of the commander. I personally think its worth the money..

Otherwise, if any of the sensors or solenoids are bad, you would have to check each one individually. I say thats a pain in the ass to do..



Also, they are being discontinued by apexi (not that you can't find one on the forum or ebay.. also I think there are more PFCs made than FDs in USA).

Yes i have a New PFC in its box for this car but i wanted it to run on the Stocker before i start upgrading.



As for the car i've had a Truely Bad day, I found out why the that Code came up (Bad earth to the ECU) so i ran a Jump lead to it and checked the Codes again, It came back this time with one Flash then Nothing.



BUT!! now i have another Problem, it was sort of running yesterday but when i tried to start it this morning it was so flooded it would not even splutter. Two hours later and its acting like the Plugs are dead, So i checked the two top ones and they both have a spark (not a realy good one but enough)



Anyway after a week of Trying its starting to wind me up so i'm going to have another go tomorow then its getting left for a Bit.

If you have the PFC, I would go ahead and run the PFC.. Stock pfc base map actually runs better than stock ECU. Not sure why you want to wait..

If i have a Problem i like to sort it before the PFC goes through its Learn Cycle when its first put on.



I was thinking about the PFC thing last night, How does the Warantee work if there not being made anymore? Do you think it would be more wise to put a EMS on that is going to have back up in twelve months time?

experienced the same issues after ive rebuilt mine... it turned out to have been injectors...

have you played around with the idle adjust screw...

Bit of an Update, Well it seems a bit more Serious than i thought.



Spent all morning checking all the sensors where working properly and stuff like Plug leads where the Correct way round etc.



Anyway long story short, I decided to tow it Round the Block as it was Proper Flooded. First time round it was Poping and missing as you would expect, Next time round it started to act like the engine was getting Tighter as it warmed up a bit?? so i stoped and Turned it over by Hand and there was a Loud noise (sounds like a Dry bearing). So at this point i took the Air pump and PS belt off (put the Decat Pulleys on with new water pump belt) and tried it again, Exactly the same (Goes tighter and makes a dry bearing noise).



My first thought was S**t i've forgot to put the Key in the Crank for the Oil pump drive (But if i take the Pulley of the front of the engine i can see it in place). The only other thing Oil related i've not checked is the OMP pump? But i can't see how that would make the engine go tight?



Anyway at this point i was one step of Cutting my Rists so i've put it away. I'm not sure what on earth is going on now but when it being towed (poping and Banging) there was Blue smoke coming out the back and there seems so be oil being pumped round.



Anyway what ever i've missed or done i've got a real Problem.

It could be injectors.. but stock injectors are pretty good, especially if it was working before, you shouldn't have problems now. Just to be safe, you could check the ohm on the injectors.



I'm not sure OMP would have anything to do with it.. Unless your jets are bad and just dumping oil into the engine. I would check your oil jets just in case.



The tight, bearing noise does concern me. Its kind of hard for me to diagnose since I cant feel it or hear it... not that I'm an expert:)

Not as much as it concerns me at the Moment https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



Just a bit of an Update, I've just pulled the Presure Sender out of the engine and turned it over, Yep there is oil there ok.



Also i removed Carfully the Crank pulley Bolt (mainly to check the Thermopellet is the correct way round) but there seems to be oil there too.



Next i took the Banjo bolts out of the OMp lines and even though the Bolts where oilly there was not alot of Oil about (i was expecting it to be dripping from the Pipes??