Got my FD with this problem and just cant seem to get it solved. If I press the throttle past a certain point (about 40%, the engine bogs/hesitates and if I hold it there it dies. This happens weather the car is at standstill and revved, or being driven. It starts easily, and idles fine. If I bearly press the pedal it will rev out just fine, but the moment I press past a certain point, it hesitate and revs fall. The plugs are fine and I changed the fuel and air filters, but no difference.



Pleas give your suggestions.

List all your mods. Do you have a boost gauge? Are you on the stock ECU?

are you on stock pre and main cats..

Sorry I forgot to mention the car is a bone stock JDM.

I think what amp was getting to is that if it's bone stock, then you may have a serious exhaust issue causing your car to bog. The pre-cats were famous for collapsing and your main cat may now be plugged up with it's debris. Remove the pre-cat ASAP and install a downpipe. You can then check your main cat, but if the pre-cat's toast, the main probably needs changing out too.

IMO, consider an aftermarket Hi-flow cat like Bonez. Just be aware that not all catalytic converters are appropriate for the higher exhaust temps of the rotary.

Oh, and if it's a LHD model, you'll need something like an HKS or Trust downpipe that will fit around the steering column.

I dont think its the cat.....reson being it will happen right off Idle if i press the pedal too far.... even before there is any significant exhaust flow. Also if I bearley press the pedal it will rev to redline.

Then you may be in limp mode....no timing advance or fuel if the manifold is not under vacuum. I'm not familiar with JDM models, but in North American versions there would be a CEL. This is how you can check for codes on LHD versions. You can search around and find out if/how it's different on yours.

http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

Is the check light located on the gauge closter like the hondas? Which one is it?

Should it come on for moment when the IG is turned on?

Don't know. Your on your own with all that JDM goodness.

And I was mistaken earlier in the thread. If it's RHD you don't have a pre-cat. Forgot.

Ok guys I made some progress. I did some reserch and I was able to access the trouble codes for the JDM, and got code 45 ....Charge control. Does anyone if this would trigger limp mode. Also is the charge control a common problem.

Page F-222 in the FSM that I linked you too in the other thread.

I wouldn't term it as common, but these are old cars, it's not all that unusual either.

wouldnt hurt to check the map sensor. vaccume line blew off, maybe cracked line or bad sensor. u could check the sensor manualy with a pressure/vac handheld pump. if im not mistaken you check them with hertz. you should see a certain amount of hertz with the varring pressure being monitered by the sensor. you can also check the ohms of the sensor but most time that wont indicate a bad sensor unless its an open curcuit or close to it, in the mega ohm range. you will need a dvom to check both the hertz and ohms of the sensor. good luck



the code u pulled could also be unrelated to the driveability issue you are fighting

With a vacuum line cracked or pulled off the map sensor, the car would barely idle if it started at all. I know...like some others I accidently knocked that line off once. Scared the crap out of me until I figured it out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

He did pull a code 45. The charge control will put him into limp mode which is pretty much what he describes. As long as the manifold sees vacuum the car will start and run fine. But no ignition advance or fuel if the manifold sees positive pressure.

My is bet still with the charge control.

im just going off how it affects my car . i can pull the vac line off the sensor on my car and it will idle fine just wont accelerate and runs extremly rich,

it also runs on an ems and is far from stock. it still is not a bad idea to check the map , along with the charge control circuit. the solenoid should be bench tested to see if the solenoid can hold a vaccume on the inlet side with out leaking through, you can also manualy give the control solenoid power and ground to see if you can hear an audible click which would indicate a functional solenoid.

if it doesnt leak and is capable of working, you need to find out if its getting voltage supplied to it while in the car and the pcm is grounding it when needed!

Got the problem solved.. It was the cc solenoid everything ok since I replaced it.

Outstanding. Glad it worked out.