Ok, i track my car and on a warm day 80+ F i can get the car pretty hot by the 3rd lap, the last one i saw was 110C, so is this too hot? When does my car go boom?



i have a vmount setup w/ nice aluminium radiator, but still have my A/C in it so that is likely robbing flow to the radiator.



i am going to put in the "R" model twin oil coolers to help as well. Yes i have water wetter in it.



Any other ideas, i have heard people not want to pulll the thermostat because is causes cavitation in the water pump. i just order a new thermostat but understand they don't have the little flapper valve, so i have heard some say to drill a little hole on in it.



any other ideas.



Oh, i got the 'r' double oil coolers from the forum but it looks like the tops are little crushed, but it may be just they way they are made. Does anyoe have some pics of what a good condition set of oil coolers look like. Thanks



D

first..... sell the factory twin oil coolers and get a set of mocal 19 rows.



the single most important thing you can do to keep your FD cool is ducting. Any holes or cracks between the radiator or I/C and any body panels or frame rail is gonna rob you of airflow.. it's looking for the path of least resistance. Fill in those gabs with foam, aluminum ducting, small children..... ANYTHING that will close up the gaps.



Add an aftermarket remote mount oil filter kits while you are at it... the dual unit if you can find room for it. Rotaries lose alot of heat thru the oil... the dual filter kit adds about 2 quarts of extra oil to you system.



If you are gonna be tracking it alot... invest in a new nose for the car and maybe a vented hood. When i'm on the track... i drain ALL of the coolant out and run straight distilled water also... no anti-freeze.



At VIR Full course on 95+* days... i normally ran 190-195*F ... That being said... i have EXTENSIVE work done to keep mine cool.



also..... 110c is about 230f. If i remember correctly, you start toasting an engine at about 235-240f.

thanks for info. the Vmoount comes with a lot of ducting to force air, but i will go back an look at it some more. i do have a vented hood that helps the flow though the IC and the engine bay.



Anyone got some pictures of the R twin stock oil coolers so i can see if mine are damaged or not. i guess when i get home i can take a few pictures and post them as well.

I always wanted a v mount setup but I actually heard that it's not the best setup for air flow through the rad. The theory is that the air entering the nose is actually deflected off the rad and goes through the intercooler because the intercooler is less restrictive. Just food for thought, but I agree with GreyGT-C about ducting, it plays a huge roll while the car is at speed.

Regarding removing the t-stat....there is a passange that allows water to run directly back to the engine, by-passing the radiator. It's there to aid warm up but with the t-stat removed, it's always open.

Agreed on the ducting. I used some upholstery foam. Cheap and effective. And at the risk of being flamed by some, I'd consider a good synthetic oil.

ok, stupid question but why upholstery foam? and where do you get it, i am guessing this is not a walmart item

Upholstery foam is cheap and you can stuff it into all the odd size gaps. Cut it oversize for the given gap and it stays well and lasts a long time. I bought mine at a local fabric store but I've also seen the stuff at hobby supply shops.

sounds like it is somewhat heat resistant https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif Cause you know the 7 is hot.



Fabric Store, yep good idea.

110C by the 3rd lap with a vmount? Thats nuts.



I have an R1 with an unducted FMIC with Koyo rad and didn't get to 109C until the last 5 minutes of a session in 88F ambient weather at Buttonwillow.



Are you sure you don't have air in your system or a something else wrong like a stuck thermostat, fans that don't work or a bad waterpump? Something doesn't sound right....

if you've got a v-mount and are still having heat issues something is definately wrong. Duct everything, and if you still have problems (i.e. air bouncing off of the rad and heading towards the IC instead) throw in a splitter between IC and Rad, this should prevent air bouncing off of the rad. Just make sure you still have enough air directed to the IC!

yeah i was thinking that, my A/C condenser is there and i tilted it up and was thinking of wrapping it with some plastic to create a splitter that way for the track.

well i have changed out the thermostat, running just water, etc. I know just boosting down the back roads, dragging the brake etc.. i can get it to 100c pretty easy but not being on the track i can't get it much hotter. so until the next track day i guess i just wait and see.



yes fans kick on at 100c and quickly cool it back to 94C while idling so i know they work.

Search for info and consider adding an FC or Miata thermoswitch to turn the fans on sooner. IIRC, about 88 C. And personally I wouldn't run ALL water.

All water runs cooler... but promotes corrosion later. Drain and put normal mix in between track events. the cooling fans do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING while the car is moving.. I don't even have fans installed on my track FD.....

Thanks Grey, i was under the assumptions, fans not that big a deal on the track, water at the track and some antifreeze afterwards.

May not be a big deal on the track, but huge when on the street. Unless you plan on being in constant motion, consider it. It's an easy and inexpensive mod.

my point about the fans being.... *IF* it is running hot while moving.. the fans are NOT the issue. I still drove my car on the street with no fans, although it was a huge pain in the ass dealing with the occassional traffic. I'd have to switch the car off anytime the traffic stopped. But it took very lil time to drop temps back down once we started moving again.



Ducting , ducting, ducting....