ok



number one: The guy i bought it from runs synth oil, should I keep running it or should I switch over to mineral. Can I even go back to mineral if theres already syn in the motor ?





number two: When im not under boost (mostly in the morning when I first start driving) it feels a little hesitant when im around the lower RPM range. I dont know if its just me or what. Is this normal ? it does seem to go away after the cars totally warmed up. On a side note, I havent checked my plugs yet either so its possible they are old with about 5k on them depending if the owner changed them out since the rebuild

[quote name='nopistons93' date='Apr 28 2005, 05:33 AM']ok



number one: The guy i bought it from runs synth oil, should I keep running it or should I switch over to mineral. Can I even go back to mineral if theres already syn in the motor ?

number two: When im not under boost (mostly in the morning when I first start driving) it feels a little hesitant when im around the lower RPM range. I dont know if its just me or what. Is this normal ? it does seem to go away after the cars totally warmed up. On a side note, I havent checked my plugs yet either so its possible they are old with about 5k on them depending if the owner changed them out since the rebuild


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This one I never got the confusion with. Motor oil is motor oil. You can go back and forth to whatever type you like. Syntehtic oil holds up better. I don't think it is all that important which you use so long as you keep the oil level full. You should change it about every 2k miles, 3k at the least. Anytime you buy a new car you should perform all general maintance just for peace of mind in knowing that it's done. New plugs, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter.

The hicup is likely just in the warm up maps. It's likely rich till the coolant gets up to a ceratian temp. Pretty normal for an engine to run like that until it gets warmed up.

ok cool man, yea cause i dont really like syn honestly its too costly since i change my oil so often that i dont even think it matters much. Plus 6 dollars a quart is a lot more than 2 dollars per quart.





also noticed in the morning it does smoke a little when i first start it up, but after the initial startup for the day it will no longer do it. It doesn't smoke ever while driving. something to be worried about ?

nopistons93 , beond popular beliefe id ditch the synthetic oil and run valvline vr-1 race oil. it holds up as well or even beter them mobil 1 it coast less and burns a hell of alot cleaner.

i took 2 13bs apart one used synthetic the oter vr-1 the motor with synthetic was pure carbon packed while the other was clean as the day it was built. i was reading a link with someone who just started to use synthetic in his fd and i was laughing. people think that an instant carbon problem will happen when using synthetic oils and when they see it doesnt they think its not creating a problem. the real deal on my experiance is a longer term thing it may take 20/30/40k to see the results but believe me it is there.

as far as the vr-1 goes that **** is the bomb. i noted cooler oil temps and faster spool up and im running 20w50.

and your hesitation is the car warming up do not be alarmed with it just be safe and not beat on the car while its under warm up cycle.

again my 50 cent.

[quote name='nopistons93' date='Apr 28 2005, 06:10 AM']ok cool man, yea cause i dont really like syn honestly its too costly since i change my oil so often that i dont even think it matters much. Plus 6 dollars a quart is a lot more than 2 dollars per quart.

also noticed in the morning it does smoke a little when i first start it up, but after the initial startup for the day it will no longer do it. It doesn't smoke ever while driving. something to be worried about ?


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A little smoke is normal. If it gets worse then you might want to pressure test the coolant system.

[quote name='Fd3BOOST' date='Apr 28 2005, 12:44 PM']A little smoke is normal. If it gets worse then you might want to pressure test the coolant system.


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its not a coolant smell, its deff a little oil, than after a few seconds its just the normal condensation. But no coolant smoke at all, thats the first thing i checked. My rad is new as well as my alum AST and the overflow never went down at all even though its pretty hard to check lol, stupid coolant dipstick

[quote name='nopistons93' date='Apr 28 2005, 08:50 AM']its not a coolant smell, its deff a little oil, than after a few seconds its just the normal condensation. But no coolant smoke at all, thats the first thing i checked. My rad is new as well as my alum AST and the overflow never went down at all even though its pretty hard to check lol, stupid coolant dipstick


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the smoke is fairly normal also , electric oil metering pump , on cold start injects more oil to better build compression. also there may be a little oil collected in the turbo housings. but then again there is alot of things that will make it do that. but id suspect only normal omp functions creating this smoke.

[quote name='fc3sboy1' date='Apr 28 2005, 01:25 PM']the smoke is fairly normal also , electric oil metering pump , on cold start injects more oil to better build compression. also there may be a little oil collected in the turbo housings. but then again there is alot of things that will make it do that. but id suspect only normal omp functions creating this smoke.


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thanks man. Yea i chekd out all the gears boosting pattern today and they were all basically in spec. i think 3rd gear was 10-7.8-10 or so but again my guage is probably not exactly right either or I might have lifted the pedal a little or something.

is this car stock? if so the transition pressure is just fine. what kind of a boost guage do you have?

na i know the pressure is good, i have some boost guage i dunno its not a autometer or defi. looks like something that comes in porsches stock. Simple but effective