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-   -   Got my FD, couple of questions. (https://www.nopistons.com/3rd-generation-specific-18/got-my-fd-couple-questions-55093/)

jspecracer7 11-21-2005 11:18 PM


Originally Posted by Lionheart240' post='780330' date='Nov 22 2005, 05:23 AM

My problems now are vaccum-line related. First it was overboosting, now it's underboosting, and I'm getting backspin on my turbo sometimes...makes this horrid low-pitch "BYOUUUUU" sound. Mazcare told my vacuum lines are a nightmare, but they want $212 just to take off the UIM and look at the rats nest, etc, that's not even including any additional hours of labor. Ugh.



I'm too scared to do it myself, though. My brother who is at least a mechanic, tried helping me re-arranged the lines coming off the turbos/manifolds, but we still couldn't get it to fix my boosting problem.

:[



How did your brother run your vacuum lines? If he ran them straight to the actuator...then that is why you are underboosting. Boosting 8 psi right?

Dueled 11-22-2005 10:41 AM

Been driving my car a bit here and there. Mainly to work and home.



I think my car is running too hot, so i'm gonna stop driving it till i get a shop to check the coolant pressure and do the fan mod, flush the fluids and take a general look over it.



When i drive it its good, 180F. If i'm driving a bit hard it goes to 200-210, but it drops to 180-190 when i slow down and stop boosting for a few miles.



When i idle the car, to cool it off before turning it off. The car can't seem to get down to 180-190 well. Takes a long time, 10+ mins (last 2 days).



I also here some very weird, soft, inconsistent gurgling sound with the hood popped up. I did a search on this board + rx7club, lot of people said it was normal, but the sound should go away with an aluminum AST, which i do have.



Also, i think the car is idling too high. Sometimes it takes maybe 5+ mins before it drops to 800 idling at around 1100-1200.

Signal 2 11-22-2005 11:19 AM


Originally Posted by Dueled' post='780607' date='Nov 22 2005, 10:41 AM

I think my car is running too hot, so i'm gonna stop driving it till i get a shop to check the coolant pressure and do the fan mod, flush the fluids and take a general look over it.

When i drive it its good, 180F. If i'm driving a bit hard it goes to 200-210, but it drops to 180-190 when i slow down and stop boosting for a few miles.

When i idle the car, to cool it off before turning it off. The car can't seem to get down to 180-190 well.

I don't know, those temps look just fine to me.

[quote post='780607' date='nov 22 2005, 1041 am']I also here some very weird, soft, inconsistent gurgling sound with the hood popped up. I did a search on this board + rx7club, lot of people said it was normal, but the sound should go away with an aluminum AST, which i do have.

Also, i think the car is idling too high. Sometimes it takes maybe 5+ mins before it drops to 800 idling at around 1100-1200.

[/quote]

I think you can have those gurgling sounds even with an aluminum AST. Depending on how cool it is where you live, it could take a few minutes to warm up.

Dueled 11-22-2005 11:37 AM

gotta keep researching so i'm less paranoid.. lol

Lionheart240 11-23-2005 01:33 AM

Thanks for the positive responses guys.



Regarding what my brother and I did. All we ended up doing was take a "Y" pipe and basically spliced in an APEXi BOV between the thicker 1" or so vacuum line that comes off the primary and secondary turbo.



I have the air-pump electrically disconnected right now. That "moo" sound gets annoying, since it's atmospheric via air filter right now.



I just posted a thread where I used a diagram to show how my BOV is currently installed, and questions regarding it. Check it out and let me know what you guys think...

Signal 2 11-23-2005 08:34 AM


Originally Posted by Lionheart240' post='780889' date='Nov 23 2005, 01:33 AM

I have the air-pump electrically disconnected right now. That "moo" sound gets annoying, since it's atmospheric via air filter right now.



If your still running a cat, unplugging your AP may clog it up prematurely. While symptoms seem to vary between cars, it can also cause you idle to be lumpy or lope.

Lionheart240 11-23-2005 11:52 AM

I have dp, cat, then catback.



Is it going to clog up that cat if it's unplugged?



o_O?

Dueled 11-23-2005 04:52 PM


Originally Posted by amp' post='779828' date='Nov 19 2005, 04:09 AM

consider heatsoak during these supposed cooldowns..

id run the fans and pop the hood and let her idle for a minute..

turbo timers are a waste of hard earned money imho..use it for a boost gauge..



What is heatsoak? (Gosh i hate it when i sound so newbie)

Couldn't find it in search either.



And, what happens if this happens to your car? Any signs?

Signal 2 11-23-2005 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by Dueled' post='781040' date='Nov 23 2005, 04:52 PM

What is heatsoak? (Gosh i hate it when i sound so newbie)

Couldn't find it in search either.

And, what happens if this happens to your car? Any signs?



Not sure I can define heat-soak properly, I don't pretend to be an engineer or physicist so I welcome corrections..... basically, if you had a thermometer at various places under your engine bay, after you turn off your car, the temperatures would actually climb for a while as that heat leaves the engine and turbos. Nothing really alarming about it, and most turbocharged cars have this problem to one extent or another. Over time, it acts to bake the various vacuum lines, wires and plastic bits under your hood not unlike if you stuck them in the oven. Replacing the stock "pre-cat" with a downpipe was a big step in reducing heatsoak. Opening the hood (or buying an aftermarket vented hood) to allow that heat to escape quicker, and the "fan mod" to pump cooler air into the engine bay helps even more. I also heat-wrapped my downpipe to help too, since alot of heat is radiated off of it into the bay as well.

CantGoStraight 11-25-2005 04:46 PM


Originally Posted by Signal 2' post='781086' date='Nov 24 2005, 02:45 AM

Not sure I can define heat-soak properly, I don't pretend to be an engineer or physicist so I welcome corrections..... basically, if you had a thermometer at various places under your engine bay, after you turn off your car, the temperatures would actually climb for a while as that heat leaves the engine and turbos. Nothing really alarming about it, and most turbocharged cars have this problem to one extent or another. Over time, it acts to bake the various vacuum lines, wires and plastic bits under your hood not unlike if you stuck them in the oven. Replacing the stock "pre-cat" with a downpipe was a big step in reducing heatsoak. Opening the hood (or buying an aftermarket vented hood) to allow that heat to escape quicker, and the "fan mod" to pump cooler air into the engine bay helps even more. I also heat-wrapped my downpipe to help too, since alot of heat is radiated off of it into the bay as well.







Nicely done, excellant description of heat soak. Thre are allot of things you can do to lower the temps, one of the easiest is to drive the car at reduced boost levels or no boost at all for the last few miles before arrival at your destination, popping your hood as you enter your subdivision, no need to idle the car for any period of time due to the fact that if there's no air movement over it then it's just running for nothing. If you follw the above driving tip you can shut the car off as soon as you arrive. If you popped your hood and not going to open it then don't forget to close it. This is best done if your going to be around the car, say at home or a friends, a gathering.....son on. Don't be too parinoid with your new ride, enjoy it or it's not worth having.


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