I was told that before I add a down pipe to my my car that the ECU would have to be replaced because the boost would become skrewy. I want to add the down pipe but I don't have the money for an ECu right now. So does anyone know what is up with this rumor I heard? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/moon.gif

the stock turbos are designed to work with the stock back pressure. when you change back pressure the transition becomes unstable, and this is bad. at steady boost the ecu is fine for 11-12psi, the problem is with an intake exhaust etc, the transition can spike up to 17-18psi. the reprogrammed ecu's are setup to compensate for less backpressure, if its just a dp though and nothing else it should be fine



mike

i had a dp with no upgraded ECU as long as u dont add alot of bolt ons



my car did fine with just a DP :bigthumg:

If you get boost spikes you can control them using a manual boost controller (also called the "home depot" boost controller). I think that with only a dp you should be ok as long as you keep boost to stock levels.

need not concern yourself with just dp..

you can run dp with intake and cb without issue..

the factory ecu is actually on the rich side ..

I allready have the rear pipe and muffler so with that on there should I still put the DP on? If I do put it on then will I get a benefit out of it. Will it add more horse power. I also have not done an intake yet so should I do that first?

I had dp and catback with no problems. My advie to ANYONE here is to get and a/f meter and a boost gauge. Most of the issues can be resolved or atleast monitored by using these. Just my 2 cents

-Kyle-

i had an efini y pipe, dp and cat back on mine and it had a spike but not bad 11-13-10-8. it had tons of fuel too, it dynoed at 11:1 afr



mike

Damn thats a high dyno from what I know of. Am I wrong? I won't have to worry about the exhaust now though because I crashed yesterday.

wow you had two transitions? tri-turbo or something lol



j/k mind you.



kevin.

Definately get the boost gauge but the a/f monitor wont do anything at all for you. It is accurate at afr of about 14.7 but if you are running anywhere near that you are way too lean. If you want to monitor a/f you need to spend the $ to get a wide-band.

wow you had two transitions? tri-turbo or something lol



j/k mind you.



kevin. [/quote]

it would transition at 13 and be down at like 8 at redline



mike

wow you had two transitions? tri-turbo or something lol



j/k mind you.



kevin. [/quote]

it would transition at 13 and be down at like 8 at redline



mike [/quote]

oh see now i get it https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



kevin.

So with all this boost mess should I wait till i get an ecu. I do have a trust boost controller to put in. Will that control boost spikes?

ok, me new to this whole mess too, but from what I understand, if you run a free flowing exhaust on a T2 the boost will go up, so the ecu cuts fuel to the rear rotor.. right? So is there a chance that the rear will blow up during the fuel cut process, cuz I beleive thats what happened to the engine I bought.

yes, because it cuts fuel, and boost drops it turns fuel on, and it hits fuel cut again, so basically it runs lean



mike

So I could blow the engine? Will the boost controller control this or do I need the ECU?

So I actually sound like I know what the hell I am talking about for a moment huh?

Sorry for hijacking your thread Danno, but its good info..

yah, so on a t2 you need a fuel cut defensor (fcd) because fuel cut is so low (7.5psi), on an fd fuel cut is up to 13-14psi in places



mike

Listen bro play it safe an get rite ECU for car b4 u blow motor up...I did same thing an my motor blew up ...I had dp an cat back APEXI... It went about 15psi an blew rite up... I ran it like 1 month like that b4 it blew up...I had expirence it my self....all i gotta say is DON'T DO IT OR ELSE https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/flamed.gif LOL

or don't get boost happy and keep it down..