hey every1,
I'm running NS with the CRV and BOV both venting pressure from the stock locations....but i had an idea. With them both back there, the boost that has been through the IC has to run backwards to exit the BOVs, making this setup a little in-efficent. So i was thinking, why not cap of the stock CRV location, then move it up to the hole on the elbow where the AWS used to take air in? That way, it would vent the air that had already came through the IC, as well as the freshly compressed air from the turbos......lemme know what u all think about that. -Zach |
Sounds like it could work??? I'd also like to hear so more feedback on this idea.
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well taht also means ur wasting already cooled air when before u were vented heated air yet to be compressed. but thats just me being devils advocate. i have heard that the closer the bov is to the intake mani the better
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You can get rid of the crv and cap the hole when you go non sequential
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Go non seq. and then you can use the stock bov on the y-pipe as well as the one for the crv. That way you are venting at both before and after the I/C https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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Originally Posted by helihansen' date='Aug 20 2003, 06:45 PM
Go non seq. and then you can use the stock bov on the y-pipe as well as the one for the crv. That way you are venting at both before and after the I/C https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
They are both before the IC in the stock locations. Original Q, was about moving the CRV to the Elbow. |
I imagine it would work...
Here's how to try: Cap the BOV. Put the CRV on the elbow. Drive. If it works, it works... which it should... If it doesn't, just put the BOV back on.. You could always come try out my Turbo XS BOV... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png |
yeh thats what I meant use one bov in stock and one on the elbow. Think I should stop drinking? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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im ALREADY running NS. I think i'll get off my lazy ass one day and cap it and try it out. justin, gimme a call sometime and we'll throw that badass BOV on my car and see what it sounds like. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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It will work.
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Sounds good. YOur gonna do what everyone does with an aftermarket BOV with the stock one. Hey you saving yourself some money. Without the BOV connected to the air box or aftermarket filters you will get a similar sound to an aftermarket BOV.
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Originally Posted by boostdfd3s' date='Aug 22 2003, 12:29 AM
im ALREADY running NS. I think i'll get off my lazy ass one day and cap it and try it out. justin, gimme a call sometime and we'll throw that badass BOV on my car and see what it sounds like. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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this is a ******* awesome question...I must say I wish I would have thought of that.
I don't see any reason why it won't work...it will actually be safer right? We know you can cap the crv and just use the bov but its safer to keep both. But what about getting rid of the cool compressed air that was mentioned? Aftermarket bovs are usually after the intercooler any way right? you'll hear it better from the drivers side too...you'll just need one long ass vacuum line to T into the bov Coolio! |
Do we have any testers???
One in stock location and one in elbow location. Then just one in elbow location. You could run the vac line behind the UIM so it woodn't be that strange looking... So what's the consenus on two??? Safe, waste, or pretty custom and neat? I feel like trying it, but can't think where to mount/vent the hose??? Maybe since it's after the IC there won't be much oil blow by...another Q; My TB has the coolant bypassed, but the AWS isn't blocked off, so if it's still electrically plugged https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif and I pull that air hose off, will that be okay? TIA who anyone who can shed light. |
I believe I used a 1/2 watt 330 ohm resistor for that one as well. I will check for sure later but I am almost positive thats what I did. Just go to radio shack they are like $2 for 6. Take the resistor and put male or female spades (opposite of what youre connecting) and push it up in there. Make sure to use electrical tape to cover it all up when youre done. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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Originally Posted by helihansen' date='Aug 24 2003, 06:07 AM
I believe I used a 1/2 watt 330 ohm resistor for that one as well. I will check for sure later but I am almost positive thats what I did. Just go to radio shack they are like $2 for 6. Take the resistor and put male or female spades (opposite of what youre connecting) and push it up in there. Make sure to use electrical tape to cover it all up when youre done. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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hes talking about elminiating the AWS solenoid w/o getting a check engine light. But you can remove that AWS hose and it'll be fine...it just wont work ne more https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png
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Thanks for clearing that up...I was so confused for a second. AWS doesn't work anyway, just revs to 3k and then down to 1.2k...I kind of like it, sounds real mean (even though its not the best thing for the engine)
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