I just bought a turbo manifold from someone over the forum and the top stud in the picture is brokenoff and the bottom one is missing altogther. My question is can this be salvaged? Other then those problems it is perfect. Thanks guys.
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Sure. Why not?
Extract the broken one and replace the missing one. |
how do I extract the broken one, its flush with the manifold? I guess a a local hardware store has a stud for the missing one?
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We had a stud get seized and snap when we were putting on my new exhaust. We had to take it to a place that was more experienced with that sort of fix and they used blowtorches to heat the hell out of it then break it out. Didn't cost us a dime.
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[quote name='Rotor26B' date='Mar 25 2005, 05:33 PM']how do I extract the broken one, its flush with the manifold?
[snapback]690883[/snapback] [/quote] drill bit and patience. |
[quote name='Rotor26B' date='Mar 25 2005, 02:33 PM']how do I extract the broken one, its flush with the manifold? I guess a a local hardware store has a stud for the missing one?
[snapback]690883[/snapback] [/quote] mazda sells the studs, nf01-13-708a, they arent cheap though |
I'd honestly just buy another one, and I'm even a really handy dude...I mean what do they go for on ebay? $30. You can try an easy out and a blow torch but those studs are in there pretty good...it may actually strip the easy out. Most likely it would work though. That or just drill that sucker all the way out, which could literally take hours...then you'd most likely need to retap the manifold...which I don't even 100% know is possible since its super tough cast iron. I've cut some of this material to do the non seq conversions...let me tell you it isn't soft stuff. Good luck
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Don't chuck it. Don't let it get the better of you.
This is simple stuff with the unit on a bench. Try fixing a broken-flush rotor housing exhaust stud with the engine installed. Soak it in PB Blaster and start with a sharp left-handed bit. If it isn't out by the time you've got a hole for your extractor (i.e. easyout) try the extractor. If all this fails then drill it out completely and re-tap. |
I'd take it to a machine shop or even the dealership to see if they can help you out. I once snapped the studs from the throttle body and took it to a guy i know that works in the shop(and thats from the frequant visits i had for buying parts) and he gladly replaced the studs for me at no charge! so see if they can help.
Chris |
couldnt you just weld and old bolt you dont want to the stud and just find a socket that fits the old bolt and twist it?
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good idea...take it to a dealership. They will really help you out...haha
The welding thing may work but thats pretty difficult stuff. i don't know if you'd really have room to get a good weld on it w/o actually welding over the manifold itself. The way to do this is with the correct tools...easy out/ extractor. and like that other dude said soak in with something...wd40...blowtorch that sucker too. Honestly I still think this is way more work than its worth. 30-40 bucks for a new one...maybe less if you bargain hunt. |
[quote name='HeffSpooled' date='Mar 26 2005, 02:32 AM']Don't chuck it. Don't let it get the better of you.
This is simple stuff with the unit on a bench. Try fixing a broken-flush rotor housing exhaust stud with the engine installed. Soak it in PB Blaster and start with a sharp left-handed bit. If it isn't out by the time you've got a hole for your extractor (i.e. easyout) try the extractor. If all this fails then drill it out completely and re-tap. [snapback]691100[/snapback] [/quote] ^^^ This is the most cost effective way, and it has a difficulty level of 2/10 |
[quote name='89 Rag' date='Mar 26 2005, 06:38 PM']^^^ This is the most cost effective way, and it has a difficulty level of 2/10
[snapback]691326[/snapback] [/quote] or take it to a machine shop, thats got a difficulty level of like 1.... |
i've broken dozens of these over the past 8 years.... take it to a machine shop.... sit back and drink a beer while you watch them fix it.
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