so when i press the brake once, it goes down about a inch or two before it actually begins to stop the car, however if i tap the brake twice quickly, the brake regains pressure right where it should. I also noticed a decent amount of fading coming from the brakes as well.





Jio said it most likely holes in the brake lines, but I don't believe that is the only issue, or if that is causing it at all. under the master cyl, there was fluid dripping but it looks to be from a while ago. whats weird is, I don't lose any fluid. Any ideas ?

sounds like air in your brake lines. Bleed them.

i agree, it IS air in the system. If you had a hole in a line... you could go stand on the pedal for a minute and it would gradually go all the way down to the floor... and leave a nice puddle somewhere.

danke schon, I should do each brake caliper right

[quote name='nopistons94' date='May 12 2005, 03:17 PM']... Jio said it most likely holes in the brake lines..
[/quote]

you misunderstood.. its air in your lines...

holes in a pressure system will cause visible leaks...

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png

[quote name='amp' date='May 12 2005, 08:18 PM']you misunderstood.. its air in your lines...

holes in a pressure system will cause visible leaks...

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png


[/quote]











sorry bro, i misunderstood because you told me to buy stainless lines I thought you said that because my lines have holes in them

you sure it's not your master cylinder leaking internally?

i had this issue when my master cylinder pooped.

when the MC on my jeep went... it went pretty much instantly.. no bleed down, no leakage.. just pop... no more brakes.

[quote name='GreyGT-C' date='May 12 2005, 11:11 PM']when the MC on my jeep went... it went pretty much instantly.. no bleed down, no leakage.. just pop... no more brakes.


[/quote]



happened on my blazer in line @ the taco bell!

Seeing how you just got your FD you should bleed the brakes anyways. the most simple way is to go get yourself some Russel Speed bleeders, They are the ****.



Once instaled just pump your brakes and the old fluid will come out, as it gets lower just keep filling your fluid resevour.

This will aid in harder brake feel and get rid of any air in the lines.

someone is gonna post abot how badly speedbleeders suck and they break easily, etc



i've used russell speed bleeders for about 5 years now.. never broke one on my car and i bleed brakes before every track weekend.



I agree with mazdabation... get a set.

Thanx Grey, I have no complaints either. These are prob the same people that crank down on their oil filters and spark plugs, and then wonder why the parts break.



The bleeders are just a thin alum/steel (not sure what one) so there is no need to put all your might behind them when installing.

i like rollin poor man/oldschool style myself and just bleeding them by hand with a tube in a bucket of brake fluid honestly. nothing really wrong with doing it that way, just slower. Thanks for the tips guys, ill get er done this weekend when i do the suspension as well. yay

[quote name='GreyGT-C' date='May 12 2005, 10:59 PM']someone is gonna post abot how badly speedbleeders suck and they break easily, etc



i've used russell speed bleeders for about 5 years now.. never broke one on my car and i bleed brakes before every track weekend.



I agree with mazdabation... get a set.


[/quote]



I have a set of the russle speed bleeders. They are like anything on teh car. Don't go and ******* heave on it with with all your might to tighten or loosen them.



They work great. I bleed my brakes atleast 5 times a year without problems. I just did it last night with ATE super blue. Hope that help



Just suck it uip and buy the speed bleeders. In my opinion brake fluid is the nastiest chemical in the car. It feels disgusting, hurts any service it touches. The less I have to touch it the better. I used to use beer bottle and plastic hoses. Every single Time i would spill that stuff on the floor. Now I have speed bleeders, and I took an old bleeder, drilled a hole in a 2L coke bottle and shoved teh old bleeder in and the hose on and it never spills.

change the master cylinder, 100% thats the problem

[quote name='turbovr6' date='May 13 2005, 07:52 AM']change the master cylinder, 100% thats the problem


[/quote]







yea it looks new, but i guess ALUM and plastic always look new in the spot that the MC is in

Try replacing the two vaccuum hoses for the brake booster. One of them has a check valve. They are not expensive.

just remembered, before I bought the car the guy got the clutch changed at his mechanic. I bet the guy didnt bleed the brakes after installing the clutch.

[quote name='nopistons94' date='May 13 2005, 10:15 AM']just remembered, before I bought the car the guy got the clutch changed at his mechanic. I bet the guy didnt bleed the brakes after installing the clutch.


[/quote]



Before you start analyzing various scenarios have you taken the effort to simply bleed the system to see if that the problem? No point spending 300 bucks on a master cylinder when all you need to do is bleed the system. Don't post here until you finish properly bleeding the system. If you still have a problem post again. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

[quote name='mr.zoom' date='May 13 2005, 10:45 AM']Try replacing the two vaccuum hoses for the brake booster. One of them has a check valve. They are not expensive.


[/quote]



if that check valve fails, you simply lose power brakes. You will have a rock hard pedal that you will NOT be able to push down with one foot.

[quote name='Cheers!' date='May 13 2005, 11:34 AM']Before you start analyzing various scenarios have you taken the effort to simply bleed the system to see if that the problem? No point spending 300 bucks on a master cylinder when all you need to do is bleed the system. Don't post here until you finish properly bleeding the system. If you still have a problem post again. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png


[/quote]





yes sir, sorry sir.

Your master brake cylinder normally has 2 chambers, one of the seal in that chamber probably has a hair line tear in it. You HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER. Don't waste your money and try to buy just the seal because it's not cheap 'cause only mazda dealer has them. But, here is the reason why you shouldn't mess with it.



Normally, master brake cylinder are cast Alunium or Steel. Morelikely, they will have microvoid inside the internal cylinder. Your brake put a lot of pressure on those voids - it's called Cavitation. Overtime, these microvoids get bigger and bigger and eventually scatch your internal seal inside the master brake cylinder and there is nothing you can do about.



Does your brake fluid has some black flakes? Normally, that's the sign. Check with your local Autozone first before going to the dealership for the master cylinder. I learned my lesson the hardway https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

I think he fixed it by now, this was like 3 months ago

ha , yea its deff what you described hotaggie I just didn't get around to fixing it yet I just got in the habit of double tapping the brakes. My friends FD does the same thing and its not that big of a deal, tranny gets fixed first now, thanks though