Hi,



I am getting a street ported engine soon... i will be using the stock turbos for a while... ppl tell me that with a ported motor i will have to port the wastegate too... is that necessary??



can i do it my self.. Oh i have a boost controller too... will that help... or will i need to port the wastegate..



Pics would be appreciated....



Also how much boost can the stock clutch take??



thanks

Some feedback please!!

What ppl?



Don't even think about it!



All the wastegate is doing is routing exhaust gas straight through the exhaust system instead of through the turbo. It is wasting the boost that isn't needed.



I don't even think this is possible without doing some major work that could really mess up your turbo system. The only gain you may see from this is that your exhaust system would be less restrictive when wasting exhaust gas. Hardly worth the effort and/or risk.



If you don't feel comfortable with this answer, ask the guys that are porting your motor.



If you have the stock down pipe with the first stage cat in it, you would be better off replacing this with a free-flowing system. I feel certain that this is more restrictive than the wastegate on the turbo system.



The clutch is limited by total HP at the flywheel; not boost. I am pretty darn sure that your clutch is going to be fine for a while. I am also pretty sure that the manual specs out the stock clutch. Check it and see if your expected HP is going to exceed the capabilities of the stock clutch.

in the words of....i forget...but, dont cross bridges until you get there!!

I would be more worried about what boost you will try to run on the stock ECU, than if the clutch will hold, and porting the wastegate.

if by ppl u mean who ever hangs out at the other place. then id wait a lil for more replies here or...check some websites like, scuderia ciriani, iluvmyrx7, et al.

Well you don't port your wastegate to make exhaust flow more efficient. You port your wastegate because you've increased the airflow to the turbo so much that the stock size wastegate can't bypass air around the turbo fast enough to keep boost under control. This is called boost creep. As rpms rise your boost pressure will continue to rise even higher than you want it to because the wastegate can't keep up. It will usually happen on a stock motor if you remove the all the cats and get a high flow muffler. A ported motor would probably make it even worse.

Exactly my point.... I don't want my new engine to get screwed because of the boost creeping... I have a Knightsports Dual Downpipe and a somewhat free flowing main cat and an Apex-i n1 installed....



The Engine i got direct from Japan and i don't want to screw it up.... It costed me alot...



Also how much hp increase should i expect from a street port with the stock turbos....



and any tip on how to run in the engine



Thanks

What do you mean by "somewhat free-flowing main cat"? What kind of intake are you running? What type of ECU? Boost creep is usually more of a problem if your exhaust system is fully open with no cats (as in MP); hi-flow cats don't suffer from it as much, although every car is different, so it's been known to happen.



Using the stock wastegate, a boost controller will basically only let you raise boost, not lower it (based on the flow capabilities of the stock wastegate compared to your intake/exhaust mods). Especially with a streetported motor, which is obviously opening up your intake side.



Too many variables to say "you'll get this much more hp with a street port using the stock turbos". Boost level, intake/exhaust mods, ECU, etc.



Everyone has their own ideas on break-in, but my pattern is to keep it below 4500 rpm for the first 500 miles with no full throttle/full boost applications, but some occasional short moderate-throttle bursts through the gears. Also, vary your rpm as much as possible; don't take it out on the highway and cruise it at a steady rpm for an hour to get 500 miles under your belt. The biggest part of break-in is multiple heat cycles-- letting the engine cool off, then run up to temperature. After 500 miles, you can do some occasional full throttle/full boost runs, but don't make a habit of it, and until you've done 750-1000 miles, don't do a "dyno-pull" full-throttle run all the way up to redline in 4th gear.

You need a ECU period. And if you get a bigger fuel system you can run higher boost. So the little creep you will get wont hurt. But i woudl do a new exhuast with a new wastegate at that point.

I already have a power fc... have not installed it yet but i have it... I was planning on running the engine in with the old ecu and then putting in the Power FC... What do you guys suggest?



I think my Power Fc came pretuned to 12 psi



thanks

If you mean the stock ECU when you say "the old ECU", that would not be a good idea, especially with all the mods you have.



Your PFC is going to have to "learn" a lot of stuff when you install it, so you might as well put it in now. Problem is, you need to have it tuned correctly; don't just think that just because it is "tuned for 12 psi" that you can just run it up without any problems, even while breaking in a motor. Every motor is different, so one person's map won't necessarily work for another. The extreme tuning capability is one of the great things about the PFC, but it's also one of its great disadvantages for those who don't know how to work with it.

I am very new to the PFC... I have no idea how to tune it... New good tuners around... What should i do?



Should i run the engine in with the original PFC settings keeping the revs under 4500...



Any suggestions



Thanks

I'd suggest finding a section on the forum where you can get some basic tuning advice on the PFC. And then try to find someone anywhere nearby that can tune it properly for you.

Hmmmm,



That is a good point. I hadn't thought about the possibility of boost creep occurring on the turbine side of the turbo. I do know that I am running a stock turbo system with a ported engine; down pipe and cat back exhaust. I have not had any problem with this setup yet. However, I do still have the stock main cat. Perhaps this is saving me.



Still doesn’t sound like a good idea to me somehow though. If you did it wrong, couldn’t you destroy your turbine housing. Also, wouldn’t the wastegate be leaking all the time? I would really want to be absolutely sure that this was necessary before attempting it.



I apologize if I misinformed you Rotorfreak. Anyway, if you can, I would say the best people to ask would be the guys porting the motor. They will have the best idea as to what effects their port job will have on the characteristics of the engine.

I spoke to my guy in japan who is supplying the engine... One thing he said he is using some new kind of 1 piece seals... which are even better than the 99 spec engine...





Also regarding the engine break in... he recommended i run it in below 5000rpms for 5000 kms !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! isn't that a bit too much??? I mean i drive my car that much in 10 months maybe....



Please advise what to do



Thanks

ok you know about porting the wastegate you need to do that when your engine and mods are very free flowing so you dont boost too much

-even when i set my car to 7psi on a ported engine and full exhaust it would go to 11psi by 7800rpms

you have a high flow cat so it may not be as bad



as far as new seals and stuff I'd stick with traditional stuff

and for breakin if the engine has all new bearings and new housings and rotors I'd do a couple thousand miles maybe 3000. If that stuff was reused then maybe 1500 miles just drive real easy. You have to do it gradual. Like the first day dont go above 2,500 rpms and don't boost. Then after 500 miles go to 3000rpms and boost to 2-3 psi keep continuing like that just slowly let it get used to revs and boost. You can't let the car bog though don't let it get under 2100rpms while cruising and change the oil every 500 miles.



this might be overkill but it's what I'd do if I spent a hardcore amount on an engine and didn't want to do this engine thing again



SNook