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Well I got my car back on the road yesterday. After putting some miles on the motor, I found that the car would stumble and hesitate badly at anything more than slight load under boost. This would be accompanied by rapidly dropping a/f ratio no matter how much fuel we added. The problem turned out to be a secconday injector not firing. I pulled the manifold and inspected the connectors. They were complete garbage. I can't believe the shop that previosuly worked on my car installed them. They were all brittle and half the connector was missing. Besides the -2 degree timing split that I had at 10 psi and 7k rpm in my so called "tuned" map, this might have been another reason why my last motor grenaded. I replaced them with some brand new haltech connectors that we had in stock. They are only a few $ each so I can't understand why they didn't use them on my car before. When I bought the 1600cc injectors I didn't know I needed connectors. I also don't have any resistors in there. Are they needed? So I soldered in new connectors, and even zip tied them to the injectors so they couldn't pop off, and went to tune for low boost. The car felt great at 8 psi. Better than it ever has at 10. After doing a few 4th gear pulls, my friend had the tuning right on. Then as I was doing a pull at about 7500 rpm the ignition went dead. I coasted to a stop an popped the hood. The egi fuse was burnt. I tried to put in another fuse and it immediately blew. I have a huge short somewhere. I had to call for my roomate to get the trailer and pick us up. Turned out to be a long night. I haven't looked into it much yet, but there is a blue connector by the ecu that has some melted wires. Where does this go to? I plan on checking the wiring diagrams tonight. It seams to have a black wire with a white stripe. I found a similar wire by the injectors. I might ahve shorted something out when installing the connectors. I also remember hearing a faint hum and feeling slight current through the intercooler piping when I was assembling the car. I didn't think much of it at the time. Any ideas of what to check? Maybe I have a bad ground? I dunno. At least the motor seams ok. It sounds fine when I crank it. Let me know what you guys think.
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That sounds like a wiring nightmare. If it were my car. I would just go through the entire harness and check all the grounds.
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1. yes you do need resistors with the 1600's they are mid impedance (5-6ohms) so you dotn need as big a resistor.
2. sounds like you have a short. find out what circuit that is that melted, if its the injector 12v, look at your connectors. if its not you need to look at what ever circuit it is and see mike |
I'll probably just get the gotham guys to help me
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That sucks. Hope it isn't too bad
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that blue connector has a black/white wire that provides 12v positive for the injectors, so like mike said check your connectors.
as far as your resistor question. without naming names "the guy" who did all the work on your car and tuned it has found a way to run the 1600's without resistors by playing with the settings in the datalogit software. How reliable it is, I can't tell you. I would get some 10ohm, 10 watt resistors and wire them in. Then compare some maps, and compare all the secondary injector #'s and change as needed. |
Originally Posted by turbovr6' date='May 27 2003, 04:18 PM
that blue connector has a black/white wire that provides 12v positive for the injectors, so like mike said check your connectors.
as far as your resistor question. without naming names "the guy" who did all the work on your car and tuned it has found a way to run the 1600's without resistors by playing with the settings in the datalogit software. How reliable it is, I can't tell you. I would get some 10ohm, 10 watt resistors and wire them in. Then compare some maps, and compare all the secondary injector #'s and change as needed. mike |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='May 27 2003, 07:33 PM
[quote name='turbovr6' date='May 27 2003, 04:18 PM'] that blue connector has a black/white wire that provides 12v positive for the injectors, so like mike said check your connectors.
as far as your resistor question. without naming names "the guy" who did all the work on your car and tuned it has found a way to run the 1600's without resistors by playing with the settings in the datalogit software. How reliable it is, I can't tell you. I would get some 10ohm, 10 watt resistors and wire them in. Then compare some maps, and compare all the secondary injector #'s and change as needed. mike [/quote] yes, like this example, if you have a faucet the more you open it(less resistance) the more water will flow through. or if your shower drain is full of hair cuz you are going bald, it will be restricted(more resistance), thus less flow LOL hmmm any more examples? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png |
I found that the melted wire goes to the bac valve. The wires were melted together right near the connector. I decided to just cut it out. I have the bac blocked off anyway. I'm going to put in another fuse and give it a shot.
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Originally Posted by Silver Ninety Three' date='May 27 2003, 07:18 PM
I found that the melted wire goes to the bac valve. The wires were melted together right near the connector. I decided to just cut it out. I have the bac blocked off anyway. I'm going to put in another fuse and give it a shot.
mike |
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