soo this weekend completely sucked. it was suppose to be my 2nd race weekend this season but unfortunately when doin pre race inspections we found that we had a leaking water o ring that was pressurizing the cooling system. The motor ran fine but overheated after a few minutes of running and the overflow tank would start filling as soon as the motor was running. soo basically a dead engine, ending my race weekend before it started.



soo now im facing a rebuild. the engine that was in the car was rebuilt not to long ago, only has a few race weekends on it, soo all the other seals should be good. but ill soon find out when the engine is torn down. soo my question is can a rebuild be down with just an engine gasket and o ring kit?



I also have to del with the issue of cooling. im assuming running at 210+ temps was the doom of this engine. and thats with running a koyo 2 row, water wetter, and gutted thremostat and plugged bypass. obviously it wasnt enough to keep the engine cool enough. soo any suggestions on better cooling? ive been loooking for another radiator, preferably a 3 row, cross flow one, but can seem to find one. i dont know if one even exists. also is water wetter the best option as far as coolant goes? anything else to help with cooling?



this is the second motor that has been killed due to overheating soo this issue needs to be fixed asap, thanks in advance for any help!

John

those annoying plastic undertrays actually help and a oem thermostat run 5 degrees cooler then without those maybe a cooling panel that goes between the headlights other then that idk

rx7 racer,



when we ran ITS we used a Fluidyne rad 3 core . it was not for a spacific car just one that fit but the bottome rad hose outlet was on the opposite side then the factory rad or the koyo. measure your area i believe you can go up to 20" tall x 27" wide with either a cross flow or a top to bottome tank. There is no rule stating you need to run the factory replacment rads in ITS. your other option is to buy the MAZDAMOTORSPORTS radiator and use that but its not a cheap date. you can also have C&R make you one



your other problem may be due to improper oil cooling. we have always used the MAZDAMOTORSPORTS factory race oil cooler and have never had hotter temps the 190 on oil , even threw a 13 hour induro.



now comes the most important part, proper ducting. We ran ITS and now EP with a Full under tray out of plasic or now we use fiberglass under trays that we make. compleatly enclose the underside of the car to the front of the subframe. then enclose the oil cooler in its own duct track and the rad in its own duct track and make the oil cooler waist air flow under the radiator to bypass any of that heat the oil cooler may have put out. cheap plasict or aluminum will work wonders to enclose the ducts to coolers from the grill openings. and use thermo tape from the core suport to rad to seal that void up. or even better ill post a pic of my EP car so you can get a better idea of the ducting.



by the way we run with out a fan and never get hotter then 190 on 95deg race days in the midwest .



randy



Triple R Autosports

i used the quick reply so i couldnt post the pic in my last post so here you go.[attachment=47731:DSCF1207.JPG]

we for sure need better ducting. there are gaps everywhere around the radiator right now that need to be blocked off. that along with a bigger radiator should do the trick. as far as the MS oil cooler goes, its a little to expensive right now for us. on their site tho is says NLA on the oil cooler listing. is that "no longer available"? also do you happen to know the part number fo that fluidyne radiator?



thanks



john

ill find out about the oil cooler and ill look into a part number for the rad. you can also use a miledon oil cooler but there about the same price as the MFR cooler

Running a gutted thermostat is a no no. From my knowledge regardless of use of the car it is necessary.



If your rad is not properly shrouded you will experience a steady temperature increase. You need to make sure as mentioned above that it is completely sealed above and below the rad. Also you need to add ducting to direct the flow of air.

this is not true, you need to gut it for racing and just use it at a restricter. like i said we use this method for 13 to 24 hour enduro races and have never gotten above 190 unless the grill area gets leaves or grass in them. then the car will run warm. and a thermostat will react the same way with dirt.

fc3sboy,



when you ran ITS what suspension setup did you use as far as spring rates and struts?

Dynamic double adjust shocks with the resivors removed per rules and spring rates where around 700# front 400# to 475# rear.