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-   -   is this worth an engine pull?... (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/worth-engine-pull-72662/)

kevyn_rx7 06-30-2009 07:06 AM

ok so i'm having a few problems with the engine and a friend recommended we do an engine pull to make things easier.



while the engine was out, we were going to:

port the wastegate

clean the turbo

remove the remainder of emissions components

install new gaskets/grommets/o-rings

new vacuum/fuel lines where needed

clean up engine components and maybe paint

sandblast/clean/repaint engine bay



the main reason we were going to pull was so we could have easier access to the turbo/wastegate. but i figure if it's out, we really should just go ahead and take care of all that stuff.



thoughts? opinions? any past experiences?

thanks



(it's a '91 TII)

1988RedT2 06-30-2009 08:12 AM

With the exception of painting the engine bay, none of that stuff sounds like a good reason to pull the engine to me. The turbo and manifold can be removed fairly easily.



Also, I was under the impression that the S5 wastegate was generally good enough to not require porting at stock and somewhat higher levels of boost. Care to share some details of your setup?

kevyn_rx7 06-30-2009 06:08 PM

sure.

currently; i'm running a 3 inch exhaust with not cats and i have the stock TID with a cone filter. I had made a custom TID for it that was just a straight pipe with a 45 degree bend and then the cone filter and that's when the problems seemed to start.



but here's what i don't fully understand..

when i bought the car, it had the 3 inch open downpipe installed and the stock TID (pipe w/ 2 90 degree bends, maf, cone filter) and it didn't bog out. I had the exhaust made for it and it still ran fine. after we made the intake for it, the car started to bog around 4k rpms (only if you punched the gas though, if you accelerated slowly it'd go beyond 5.5 rpms easily)



i thought for awhile that it was a vacuum leak and i still think it's possible, but according to members on rx7 club, this (boost creep) is a common problem when you add an intake/exhaust.

j9fd3s 06-30-2009 06:31 PM

turbo comes right off, no reason to pull motor at all.



my old setup had the stock TID and 3" exhaust, cone air filter. it would creep a teeny bit on cold nights, but that means it would boost like 7psi instead of 6. have you disconnected the factory boost solenoid?



car will run much much better if you dont touch it

kevyn_rx7 06-30-2009 06:53 PM

i haven't disconnected it.

if you have a similar setup i think i may just have some leaky vacuum lines. guess it's time to replace 'em

kevyn_rx7 06-30-2009 06:54 PM

i haven't disconnected it.

if you have a similar setup i think i may just have some leaky vacuum lines. guess it's time to replace 'em

Ranzo 06-30-2009 09:03 PM


Originally Posted by kevyn_rx7' post='923752' date='Jun 30 2009, 03:08 PM
sure.

currently; i'm running a 3 inch exhaust with not cats and i have the stock TID with a cone filter. I had made a custom TID for it that was just a straight pipe with a 45 degree bend and then the cone filter and that's when the problems seemed to start.



but here's what i don't fully understand..

when i bought the car, it had the 3 inch open downpipe installed and the stock TID (pipe w/ 2 90 degree bends, maf, cone filter) and it didn't bog out. I had the exhaust made for it and it still ran fine. after we made the intake for it, the car started to bog around 4k rpms (only if you punched the gas though, if you accelerated slowly it'd go beyond 5.5 rpms easily)



i thought for awhile that it was a vacuum leak and i still think it's possible, but according to members on rx7 club, this (boost creep) is a common problem when you add an intake/exhaust.





When it bogs what kind of boost are you seeing? Reason I ask is I have seen the Injector Cushions or O rings that sit in the housings get hard or break and stop sealing. Typically on the primary injectors it will idle and run fine but any boost will leak past the O rings and the car falls on it face. Any chance you had the fuel rails out.



then again since you made an intake and it is a S5 what did you do about the two hoses that come from the stock suction pipe?

j9fd3s 06-30-2009 10:31 PM


Originally Posted by kevyn_rx7' post='923758' date='Jun 30 2009, 04:54 PM
i haven't disconnected it.

if you have a similar setup i think i may just have some leaky vacuum lines. guess it's time to replace 'em



no leaks, factory has a solenoid in there that raises the boost, if your boost it spiking it might be time to cap it off.



its actually SUPPOSED to do that, but when you change the exhaust, the thing will overboost

1988RedT2 07-01-2009 07:50 AM


Originally Posted by kevyn_rx7' post='923752' date='Jun 30 2009, 07:08 PM
sure.

currently; i'm running a 3 inch exhaust with not cats and i have the stock TID with a cone filter. I had made a custom TID for it that was just a straight pipe with a 45 degree bend and then the cone filter and that's when the problems seemed to start.



but here's what i don't fully understand..

when i bought the car, it had the 3 inch open downpipe installed and the stock TID (pipe w/ 2 90 degree bends, maf, cone filter) and it didn't bog out. I had the exhaust made for it and it still ran fine. after we made the intake for it, the car started to bog around 4k rpms (only if you punched the gas though, if you accelerated slowly it'd go beyond 5.5 rpms easily)



i thought for awhile that it was a vacuum leak and i still think it's possible, but according to members on rx7 club, this (boost creep) is a common problem when you add an intake/exhaust.



I'm fairly sure what you're seeing is the mixture leaning out and causing a misfire. Potentially fatal for your engine, BTW. I didn't see any major improvement in performance after going with a 3-inch downpipe/exhaust either. The restriction was on the intake side. When I opened that up, the car was a full second quicker in the 1/4-mile. But I had already made some improvements to the fuel system by then.



Try a fuel pump upgrade, larger secondary injectors, and a way to manage the extra fuel. And be sure to verify that you are getting full voltage at your fuel pump. The wiring is known to be subject to corrosion after 20 years.


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