Here's the scenario.



13B Turbo II. I purchased after it was wrecked & partially disassembled.



1. All new vacuum hoses.

2. Compression well within specifications on both rotors.

3. good spark at all 4 coil terminals.

4. New NGK plugs & wires.

5. Plugs remain dry, or very small amount of fuel on them when I take them out to have a look. They're definitely not soaked. i.e. I don't think this is a flooding problem.

6. New air filter.

7. New fuel lines & filter.



The engine cranks fine but won't start, although it comes very close. I haven't checked fuel pressure, but I can feel fuel flow & hear the pump running. The pump runs constantly when the key is on.



I put a small amount of gas into the intake via the BAC valve hole. After some extended cranking, the engine started & ran fine for 5 seconds or so, then quit.



I have verified continuity to the fuel injectors back to the ECU and there is voltage present at each injector lead.



I have re-soldered all the connectors on the ECU (this immediately corrected a no spark problem).



I have verified continuity of the Throttle Position Sensor back to the ECU & note change of resistance when moving the accelerator.



Just to satisfy myself, I went through the complicated de-flooding routine by pulling the fuse, removing the plugs, cranking the engine, squirting the ATF, etc. It didn't make a difference.



I suspect a fuel pressure or injector problem, however I haven't gone to the trouble of tapping the line & testing yet.



Because of my unfamiliarity with these vehicles, I don't know if this is importantant, but all of the warning lights come on when the key is on and stay on, even after extended cranking. Also, the auxiliary cooling fan usually runs constantly when the key is on. Is this normal?



The vehicle has not been started in over a year.



Does anyone have any ideas?

This belongs in the 2nd gen section. Is your air flow meter plugged in?

Thanks for moving to the correct forum. Yes, the air flow meter is plugged in. Are there specfic tests I can perform on it without a lot of expensive diagnostic equipment. I have to assume the car was running prior to being wrecked so I'm hoping it's something I've done.

I would make the ECU diagnostic check connector. What this will do is tell you if your ecu is online. Also check your fuel pressure!



Jarrett

Sounds like it could be your MAFS(Mass Air Flow Sensor).Any popping or backfire?

He cant get it started, so im sure he does not know that.

he said it ran for 5 seconds once https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

Does the tank have gas in it?



I don't think the pump is supposed to run constantly, unless this is specific to NA's.



It runs constantly when you turn the key on with some diagnostic connector shorted, otherwise it only turns on during cranking and when the AFM is open (theres a switch in the AFM) ... it opens when there is airflow (running).



Can anyone confirm this?? I'm a bit rusty on the stock ecu stuff since going haltech.

have you checked your fuel pressure? your fuel filter?? how did it sound when it started up then shut off.. did it backfire or anything and then shut off.. or just shut off like if you turned the key off? did you check to see if all your intercooler pipes are good or even connected right?? along with the turbo inlet duct?? it sounds just like a sensor or meter is just not reading somethin right or not plugged in at all

you could also have a bad mafs even if it looks good.... test it to make sure. it could be a bad fuel pump. i would pull the pump and replace it with the Walbro.

Sound like you apex seals are jamed up. Tow start that bad boy

2nd gear 3000rpm Ignition on you should notice a change in the exaust note when the apex seals free up

thats what I said.......talk to us thread starter so we can help https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif

Here's an update.



After extended cranking last night, it finally started. Lots of white smoke due to the ATF which I expected. It ran very roughly until it warmed up, then it smoothed out. It would NOT idle though.



I let it run for about 10 minutes. I then shut it off so I could attach a timing light. It never would restart or even come close.



I pulled one of the plugs to see if it was flooded & the plug was solid black. These were new NGK plugs. I don't know if this was from the ATF, incorrect timing, or some other cause.



I'm going to clean the plugs & try again tonight. I'm also going to check the fuel pump & fuel system pressure. The Haynes manual makes a reference that the pump should kick off when pressurized, however, I can find no such reference in the factory service manual so I really don't know what to look for.



I assume that since the pump IS at least running, that the switch in the Air Flow Meter is operating.



Thanks for the great replies. I look forward to your comments/suggestions.

I also forgot to mention that there was NO popping or backfiring while it was running. Does this indicate a correctly funtioning AFM?

did you have theses plugs in when you did the atf trick??? if so you will need to buy new ones. the atf trick f*cks the pulgs. did you read the thread about the atf trick?





https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...showtopic=2451





hope this helps get that beast running

No it could still be the MAFS/AFM.Sometimes do you have to push on the gas a little for the car to idel?

i never had a problem getting my t2 started when the afm was not attached. the computer has default values it will substitute in when the afm is disabled or not present. the car will run with no afm. it will run poorly, mind you, but it will run. it will bog and smoke like crazy when you try to rev it up, but it should still work.



i would explore other avenues. the factory service manual should have some troubleshooting stuff in there for diagnosing the afm. it should just require a multimeter and a little time checking some resistance.



good luck.

The saga continues:



You guys were on target with the AFM. It seems that when the car was wrecked, passenger side front, it partially pulled the AFM connector out of the AFM housing. Consequently, the leads were broken off of the circuit board. Also, the fuel pump relay switch was only sometimes making contact when the gate opened.



I got all that fixed. A little coaxing, the car started up, idled, and all was good in life. I let it run a good 10 minutes or so. No smoke, seemed to bog down a little at higher RPM's but that's a topic for another thread.



I already had the timing light connected to leading wire #1. I couldn't even see the timing mark. I shut the car off to loosen the nut on the CAS. Maybe a minute and a half at most.



Guess what, wouldn't start back up. Wouldn't even act like it was trying, it just continued to crank. Would a warmed up engine flood that quickly?



I'm thinking ignition timing somehow. I had to replace the front hub, due to stripped threads. I didn't compare the new to the old. Were there differences for different model years & could this be why my timing appears to be so far off.



I used the Haynes manual procedure to set the initial timing, i.e. align the marks on the gear/housing with the pin on the yellow mark of the pulley.



Also, I want to make sure I have the plug wires on correctly:



Front lower plug to white terminal on leading coil (closest to radiator).

Front upper plug to white terminal on trailing coil (closest to firewall).

Rear lower plug to secondary terminal on leading coil.

Rear upper plug to secondary terminal on trailing coil.



You guys sure know your rx7 stuff. Thanks for your help.

glad to have helped https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

did you get it to start after redoing the timing? and yes if your injectors are bad 10 can def. flood the car. next time that happens follow this web pages instructions....



http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/flooding.html



Let me know if that helps

The strangest thing i see is the fuel pump running constantly. Check for a jumper wire someone may have forgotten in a connector near the airbox. If not then check the AFM to see if theres anything jammed in it or if its stuck open.

yea my post about that seemed to get ignored https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

You were right, it was strange. It was due to the broken connector on the MAF sensor. Now the pump comes on and off with the movement of the gate.