It Won't Start!
10-23-2003, 11:40 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,882
Originally Posted by bacca' date='Oct 23 2003, 12:04 AM
you could also have a bad mafs even if it looks good.... test it to make sure. it could be a bad fuel pump. i would pull the pump and replace it with the Walbro.
10-23-2003, 12:15 PM
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
Here's an update.
After extended cranking last night, it finally started. Lots of white smoke due to the ATF which I expected. It ran very roughly until it warmed up, then it smoothed out. It would NOT idle though.
I let it run for about 10 minutes. I then shut it off so I could attach a timing light. It never would restart or even come close.
I pulled one of the plugs to see if it was flooded & the plug was solid black. These were new NGK plugs. I don't know if this was from the ATF, incorrect timing, or some other cause.
I'm going to clean the plugs & try again tonight. I'm also going to check the fuel pump & fuel system pressure. The Haynes manual makes a reference that the pump should kick off when pressurized, however, I can find no such reference in the factory service manual so I really don't know what to look for.
I assume that since the pump IS at least running, that the switch in the Air Flow Meter is operating.
Thanks for the great replies. I look forward to your comments/suggestions.
After extended cranking last night, it finally started. Lots of white smoke due to the ATF which I expected. It ran very roughly until it warmed up, then it smoothed out. It would NOT idle though.
I let it run for about 10 minutes. I then shut it off so I could attach a timing light. It never would restart or even come close.
I pulled one of the plugs to see if it was flooded & the plug was solid black. These were new NGK plugs. I don't know if this was from the ATF, incorrect timing, or some other cause.
I'm going to clean the plugs & try again tonight. I'm also going to check the fuel pump & fuel system pressure. The Haynes manual makes a reference that the pump should kick off when pressurized, however, I can find no such reference in the factory service manual so I really don't know what to look for.
I assume that since the pump IS at least running, that the switch in the Air Flow Meter is operating.
Thanks for the great replies. I look forward to your comments/suggestions.
10-23-2003, 05:06 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 90
did you have theses plugs in when you did the atf trick??? if so you will need to buy new ones. the atf trick f*cks the pulgs. did you read the thread about the atf trick?
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...showtopic=2451
hope this helps get that beast running
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...showtopic=2451
hope this helps get that beast running
10-23-2003, 05:30 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,882
Originally Posted by hcpcjj' date='Oct 23 2003, 09:17 AM
I also forgot to mention that there was NO popping or backfiring while it was running. Does this indicate a correctly funtioning AFM?
10-23-2003, 07:15 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 563
i never had a problem getting my t2 started when the afm was not attached. the computer has default values it will substitute in when the afm is disabled or not present. the car will run with no afm. it will run poorly, mind you, but it will run. it will bog and smoke like crazy when you try to rev it up, but it should still work.
i would explore other avenues. the factory service manual should have some troubleshooting stuff in there for diagnosing the afm. it should just require a multimeter and a little time checking some resistance.
good luck.
i would explore other avenues. the factory service manual should have some troubleshooting stuff in there for diagnosing the afm. it should just require a multimeter and a little time checking some resistance.
good luck.
10-24-2003, 08:06 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
The saga continues:
You guys were on target with the AFM. It seems that when the car was wrecked, passenger side front, it partially pulled the AFM connector out of the AFM housing. Consequently, the leads were broken off of the circuit board. Also, the fuel pump relay switch was only sometimes making contact when the gate opened.
I got all that fixed. A little coaxing, the car started up, idled, and all was good in life. I let it run a good 10 minutes or so. No smoke, seemed to bog down a little at higher RPM's but that's a topic for another thread.
I already had the timing light connected to leading wire #1. I couldn't even see the timing mark. I shut the car off to loosen the nut on the CAS. Maybe a minute and a half at most.
Guess what, wouldn't start back up. Wouldn't even act like it was trying, it just continued to crank. Would a warmed up engine flood that quickly?
I'm thinking ignition timing somehow. I had to replace the front hub, due to stripped threads. I didn't compare the new to the old. Were there differences for different model years & could this be why my timing appears to be so far off.
I used the Haynes manual procedure to set the initial timing, i.e. align the marks on the gear/housing with the pin on the yellow mark of the pulley.
Also, I want to make sure I have the plug wires on correctly:
Front lower plug to white terminal on leading coil (closest to radiator).
Front upper plug to white terminal on trailing coil (closest to firewall).
Rear lower plug to secondary terminal on leading coil.
Rear upper plug to secondary terminal on trailing coil.
You guys sure know your rx7 stuff. Thanks for your help.
You guys were on target with the AFM. It seems that when the car was wrecked, passenger side front, it partially pulled the AFM connector out of the AFM housing. Consequently, the leads were broken off of the circuit board. Also, the fuel pump relay switch was only sometimes making contact when the gate opened.
I got all that fixed. A little coaxing, the car started up, idled, and all was good in life. I let it run a good 10 minutes or so. No smoke, seemed to bog down a little at higher RPM's but that's a topic for another thread.
I already had the timing light connected to leading wire #1. I couldn't even see the timing mark. I shut the car off to loosen the nut on the CAS. Maybe a minute and a half at most.
Guess what, wouldn't start back up. Wouldn't even act like it was trying, it just continued to crank. Would a warmed up engine flood that quickly?
I'm thinking ignition timing somehow. I had to replace the front hub, due to stripped threads. I didn't compare the new to the old. Were there differences for different model years & could this be why my timing appears to be so far off.
I used the Haynes manual procedure to set the initial timing, i.e. align the marks on the gear/housing with the pin on the yellow mark of the pulley.
Also, I want to make sure I have the plug wires on correctly:
Front lower plug to white terminal on leading coil (closest to radiator).
Front upper plug to white terminal on trailing coil (closest to firewall).
Rear lower plug to secondary terminal on leading coil.
Rear upper plug to secondary terminal on trailing coil.
You guys sure know your rx7 stuff. Thanks for your help.
10-24-2003, 04:10 PM
#20
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 90
did you get it to start after redoing the timing? and yes if your injectors are bad 10 can def. flood the car. next time that happens follow this web pages instructions....
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/flooding.html
Let me know if that helps
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/flooding.html
Let me know if that helps