It Won't Start!
10-22-2003, 06:19 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
Here's the scenario.
13B Turbo II. I purchased after it was wrecked & partially disassembled.
1. All new vacuum hoses.
2. Compression well within specifications on both rotors.
3. good spark at all 4 coil terminals.
4. New NGK plugs & wires.
5. Plugs remain dry, or very small amount of fuel on them when I take them out to have a look. They're definitely not soaked. i.e. I don't think this is a flooding problem.
6. New air filter.
7. New fuel lines & filter.
The engine cranks fine but won't start, although it comes very close. I haven't checked fuel pressure, but I can feel fuel flow & hear the pump running. The pump runs constantly when the key is on.
I put a small amount of gas into the intake via the BAC valve hole. After some extended cranking, the engine started & ran fine for 5 seconds or so, then quit.
I have verified continuity to the fuel injectors back to the ECU and there is voltage present at each injector lead.
I have re-soldered all the connectors on the ECU (this immediately corrected a no spark problem).
I have verified continuity of the Throttle Position Sensor back to the ECU & note change of resistance when moving the accelerator.
Just to satisfy myself, I went through the complicated de-flooding routine by pulling the fuse, removing the plugs, cranking the engine, squirting the ATF, etc. It didn't make a difference.
I suspect a fuel pressure or injector problem, however I haven't gone to the trouble of tapping the line & testing yet.
Because of my unfamiliarity with these vehicles, I don't know if this is importantant, but all of the warning lights come on when the key is on and stay on, even after extended cranking. Also, the auxiliary cooling fan usually runs constantly when the key is on. Is this normal?
The vehicle has not been started in over a year.
Does anyone have any ideas?
13B Turbo II. I purchased after it was wrecked & partially disassembled.
1. All new vacuum hoses.
2. Compression well within specifications on both rotors.
3. good spark at all 4 coil terminals.
4. New NGK plugs & wires.
5. Plugs remain dry, or very small amount of fuel on them when I take them out to have a look. They're definitely not soaked. i.e. I don't think this is a flooding problem.
6. New air filter.
7. New fuel lines & filter.
The engine cranks fine but won't start, although it comes very close. I haven't checked fuel pressure, but I can feel fuel flow & hear the pump running. The pump runs constantly when the key is on.
I put a small amount of gas into the intake via the BAC valve hole. After some extended cranking, the engine started & ran fine for 5 seconds or so, then quit.
I have verified continuity to the fuel injectors back to the ECU and there is voltage present at each injector lead.
I have re-soldered all the connectors on the ECU (this immediately corrected a no spark problem).
I have verified continuity of the Throttle Position Sensor back to the ECU & note change of resistance when moving the accelerator.
Just to satisfy myself, I went through the complicated de-flooding routine by pulling the fuse, removing the plugs, cranking the engine, squirting the ATF, etc. It didn't make a difference.
I suspect a fuel pressure or injector problem, however I haven't gone to the trouble of tapping the line & testing yet.
Because of my unfamiliarity with these vehicles, I don't know if this is importantant, but all of the warning lights come on when the key is on and stay on, even after extended cranking. Also, the auxiliary cooling fan usually runs constantly when the key is on. Is this normal?
The vehicle has not been started in over a year.
Does anyone have any ideas?
10-22-2003, 07:14 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
Thanks for moving to the correct forum. Yes, the air flow meter is plugged in. Are there specfic tests I can perform on it without a lot of expensive diagnostic equipment. I have to assume the car was running prior to being wrecked so I'm hoping it's something I've done.
10-22-2003, 07:46 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: fredneck MD
Posts: 4,107
Originally Posted by 4RotorRocket' date='Oct 22 2003, 08:38 PM
Sounds like it could be your MAFS(Mass Air Flow Sensor).Any popping or backfire?
10-22-2003, 07:54 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Does the tank have gas in it?
I don't think the pump is supposed to run constantly, unless this is specific to NA's.
It runs constantly when you turn the key on with some diagnostic connector shorted, otherwise it only turns on during cranking and when the AFM is open (theres a switch in the AFM) ... it opens when there is airflow (running).
Can anyone confirm this?? I'm a bit rusty on the stock ecu stuff since going haltech.
I don't think the pump is supposed to run constantly, unless this is specific to NA's.
It runs constantly when you turn the key on with some diagnostic connector shorted, otherwise it only turns on during cranking and when the AFM is open (theres a switch in the AFM) ... it opens when there is airflow (running).
Can anyone confirm this?? I'm a bit rusty on the stock ecu stuff since going haltech.
10-22-2003, 09:18 PM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 22
have you checked your fuel pressure? your fuel filter?? how did it sound when it started up then shut off.. did it backfire or anything and then shut off.. or just shut off like if you turned the key off? did you check to see if all your intercooler pipes are good or even connected right?? along with the turbo inlet duct?? it sounds just like a sensor or meter is just not reading somethin right or not plugged in at all
