My back-ordered gauge came in today, is this sender going to fit in the thermostat housing? The sender is at least 2" long, and it has a 1/2 npt fitting on it.
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You should be able to tap into the housing, but the water pump would be more ideal because it will allow for you to get an accurate reading before the thermostat opens.
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So I will have to remove the pump to do this? Or can I remove the hose, plug the hole VERY VERY carefully, then drill and tap? If im removing the pump, a new one will go back on. The sender will clear the impeller and all the other internals as well?
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 03 2002,17:47
So I will have to remove the pump to do this? Or can I remove the hose, plug the hole VERY VERY carefully, then drill and tap? If im removing the pump, a new one will go back on. The sender will clear the impeller and all the other internals as well?
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Its been on there since I got the car, so I figure I can just get another one, tap it, then swap it out, I dont know what to do, I want the gauge to work well, but I dont want jink myself with any problems putting the old pump back on, and by some chance overheating it and kicking myself in the ass for not replacing it while I had it off! Cant I just tap the thermostat housing and pick the temp up from there? I cant see it being any different other then getting the temp upstream of the radiator, which is what I think I would rather see then the temp before the radiator?
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 03 2002,18:46
Its been on there since I got the car, so I figure I can just get another one, tap it, then swap it out, I dont know what to do, I want the gauge to work well, but I dont want jink myself with any problems putting the old pump back on, and by some chance overheating it and kicking myself in the ass for not replacing it while I had it off! Cant I just tap the thermostat housing and pick the temp up from there? I cant see it being any different other then getting the temp upstream of the radiator, which is what I think I would rather see then the temp before the radiator?
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Ill install 2 and see the difference the radiator makes, lol
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I dont know if anyone knows...but, the automatics had 2 sensors on the waterpump housing. One for the front fan and the other for the CPU.
You can do it cleanly with this unit. |
Originally Posted by jmseven7' date='April 04 2002,23:29
I dont know if anyone knows...but, the automatics had 2 sensors on the waterpump housing. One for the front fan and the other for the CPU.
You can do it cleanly with this unit. |
See, he really is a 13b ace. Think we can follow each other to the BBQ? That is if you mind going the speed limit.
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 05 2002,17:01
See, he really is a 13b ace. Think we can follow each other to the BBQ? That is if you mind going the speed limit.
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13bace
I take it no one understood what I meant..let me reiterate. The w/p housing has 2 sensors. If you have the w/p with only one, you can upgrade your w/ the two sensor to make it look OEM. That is what I was getting at. I had discovered this while building my friends engine. What a discovery. My T2 did not come with this housing, nor did 4 others. |
Originally Posted by jmseven7' date='April 05 2002,21:03
13bace
I take it no one understood what I meant..let me reiterate. The w/p housing has 2 sensors. If you have the w/p with only one, you can upgrade your w/ the two sensor to make it look OEM. That is what I was getting at. I had discovered this while building my friends engine. What a discovery. My T2 did not come with this housing, nor did 4 others. |
Let me take this opportunity to thank you 2 for your help, and for giving me ANOTHER decision to make, lol. Now I dont know if I should go with the other pump, so I can not only have the sender in there, but also so everything can look OEM. Wont the temperature reading seem a little high though picking it up before the radiator? Or is this where it picks it up now? What is the point of the 2 sensors anyhow? I see by the factory workshop manual that the sensor in the thermostat housing is for the "water thermo switch for A/T"?
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 05 2002,21:34
Let me take this opportunity to thank you 2 for your help, and for giving me ANOTHER decision to make, lol. Now I dont know if I should go with the other pump, so I can not only have the sender in there, but also so everything can look OEM. Wont the temperature reading seem a little high though picking it up before the radiator? Or is this where it picks it up now? What is the point of the 2 sensors anyhow? I see by the factory workshop manual that the sensor in the thermostat housing is for the "water thermo switch for A/T"?
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Ok, I pulled the cover off the car, and snooped around. IT seems as though the thermostat housing is rigged for a sender, but there isnt one in there. So I figured, great, Ill stick the thing in there, but the probe for the sender is tooooo long to go there, it will hit the thermostat. So Im going to remove the thermostat housing, and have my handy dandy welding friend extend the hole where the factory didnt put the 2nd sender in by about 1", then Ill drill it out where the factory has it closed off, tap it for the 1/2 NPT, and Ill be all good to go
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 06 2002,17:50
Ok, I pulled the cover off the car, and snooped around. IT seems as though the thermostat housing is rigged for a sender, but there isnt one in there. So I figured, great, Ill stick the thing in there, but the probe for the sender is tooooo long to go there, it will hit the thermostat. So Im going to remove the thermostat housing, and have my handy dandy welding friend extend the hole where the factory didnt put the 2nd sender in by about 1", then Ill drill it out where the factory has it closed off, tap it for the 1/2 NPT, and Ill be all good to go
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Actually, the sender has 1/2 npt, and 3/8, if you cant use the 3/8, you use the 1/2, I got them mixed up, but yes it will accept the 3/8 but not all the way down the boss, Im going to have him extend it so I can tap it up high for the 3/8 and still clear the probe that will stick in 1 1/2 inches past the threads.
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 06 2002,18:39
Actually, the sender has 1/2 npt, and 3/8, if you cant use the 3/8, you use the 1/2, I got them mixed up, but yes it will accept the 3/8 but not all the way down the boss, Im going to have him extend it so I can tap it up high for the 3/8 and still clear the probe that will stick in 1 1/2 inches past the threads.
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All he has to do is weld a small piece of tubing to the top of the housing extending what Mazda already put there, then Ill tap it, Ill probably tap it right at his shop, should be doing this tomoroww, so Ill let you know how it works out, its probably a 1/2 hour job total not including taking the housing off the car ( which should take all of 5-10 minutes ), it would take alot more time to take the water pump off.
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 07 2002,18:45
All he has to do is weld a small piece of tubing to the top of the housing extending what Mazda already put there, then Ill tap it, Ill probably tap it right at his shop, should be doing this tomoroww, so Ill let you know how it works out, its probably a 1/2 hour job total not including taking the housing off the car ( which should take all of 5-10 minutes ), it would take alot more time to take the water pump off.
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yea aluminum is hard, im pretty good with steel, I've been doing it since i was like 6. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Then again it runs in my family, my uncle has an award for best welder in MN.
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='April 07 2002,19:35
yea aluminum is hard, im pretty good with steel, I've been doing it since i was like 6. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Then again it runs in my family, my uncle has an award for best welder in MN.
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