ok so i have a stock hybrid turbo thingy, and *supposively* a ported stock wastegate.



Ever since i got the car my boost simply climbs higher and higher as the rpm's go higher and higher.



This I sorta knew cant be fixed by a boost controller but i got one just to see if maybe i was wrong...but alas i was right and the boost controller is useless right now.



So what are my options with the stock wastegate? can i convert to a better/bigger external wastegate, does anyone make a bigger wastegate for the stock location?



please help, or send me your old stock wastegate so i can test porting it to see if mine actually is ported https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



kevin.

meh half of what i said doesnt make sense, sorry im feeling lousy today hopefully you get the jist of it.



kevin.

s4? I forgot what you have and im too lazy to hit the back button. Who ported it? Ive seen bnr's work on s4 wg's, and its good. S5, i did mine myself and its really really easy. You can take it apart and do it yourself. You shoudlnt have too big of problems with creep if its ported. You can also use the flap off a 3rd gen wg and enlarge the hole to that size, thats how bnr does it, or a s5.



as for telling if its ported or not, you'll know by looking at it.

After i ported mine i had no more creepy problems.

Exernal wastegate = different exhaust snail



take it apart and post pics

yea from what ive been reading my wastegate definitely isnt ported cause this thing has horrible creep.



what kinda tools should i use to port it? im looking for minimal downtime.



kevin.

took me a collective hour maybe. Just take off the turbo, take off the back plate on the turbo and open the flap. You might have to bend the arm thingy attached to the flap to get it to open all the way, no worries, just bend it back when youre done. I used a dremel and some metal bits. If you have a die grinder, that would be better.. but dremel works. And then just widen the hole, dont go too wide though .. make sure the flap covers it all still https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



then put the plate back on, reinstall the turbo ... and youre set.



also forgot to ask, what are you running for boost, and whats it creeping to?



i would run about 7psi in 1st, 10 psi in 2nd, 13-15 psi in 3rd and 4th... then it would slowly drop down the further i revved it. Pretty ghettofied, but it worked https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

its ported, i can send you pictures of the before and after if you like. there really isnt any more room to open up that turbo without bridging the two wastegate holes. i used a die grinder and a titanium carbide tip to open it up as much as it would allow. ill post pictures when i get home from work

well i have some sort of stock/t04e hybrid turbo on my car and from what ive gone to this is what i can tell:



1st - 10psi at redline

2nd - 13ish psi at redline

3rd - dont redline it but last time i think it was 15psi at redline

4th - never redlined but it will hit around 15psi at about 5-5.5k rpms

5th - never gone past 4k rpms so boost stays low.



i've been trying to baby it which means i haven't experienced the fun of redlining most of the gears yet.



but in like 3rd and 4th the boost just continually builds, no hesitation or slow down in the building of boost.



kevin.

With my WG ported I never saw over 7.5 psi, but that was on an S4 with only a 2.5" exhaust.

use a dremol

what kinda tip should i use on the dremel any bit better then the others for this type of application?



kevin.

really?



i think i may be stuck going to ane xternal wastegate then cause this boost creep is serious.



kevin.

btw pics would be great



kevin.

s5 wg is ALOT different than a s4. s4 have more boost creep problems, they are quite a bit smaller. Also remember, what my boost was seeing, i had a manual boost controller. After i ported my wg the most i saw was 12 ... without the boost controller

did you have a straight exhaust?



kevin.

yeah, 3" .... and fmic

hmm. i hate diagnosis.



kevin.

I know this sounds obvious, but have you verified that the wastegate is actually functioning??? If a line popped off or if the wastegate diaphragm was ruptured, you would get some serious boost creep. Pull off the pressure line to the wastegate actuator and apply air pressure (the FSM says not more than 14 psi, or you'll break it). It should start to move by 5 psi, and be pretty much fully open by about 8 psi. I used a tire pump and a pressure gauge teed into the line to test mine.



I'm also running a stock hybrid, ported stock wastegate, and a manual boost controller. Mine does not creep past the 9 psi that I am currently running, even in fourth gear. Check that wastegate!

mmmm i cant seem to find those pictures. i think perhaps they were on a hard drive thats no longer in my machine. either way, i assure you its ported to the maximum that the casting would allow without bridging the two holes. they are probably 2x as large as they were when i got the thing. it just seems like the casting was poorly designed for flow purposes.



i always had a problem with that boost creep and could never really get on it in the higher gears without worrying about it exploding. keep in mind that it has the factory wastegate actuator attached to that turbo. if it did for any reason go out, it will be a bitch to replace.

here are the ports, note the lack of actual covers on that flap. they broke off for some unknown reason. one got spat out the exhaust and the other blocked the flap open. what a peice of ****.

new flap welded up out of 1/4 plate and the ports were further expanded to accmodate. plate was the same thickness of the plugs that were included but should hold up much better. call it ghetto if you must, but there was nothing else that could be done.

finally, factory wg actuator welded up, as the opening pressure for the included actuator was too high/unknown.

after seeing these pix i'd say you have a broken actuator, this happened on my roomates 240sx sr20det T28 turbo or the flap isn't opening!

what leads you to believe that the actuator is broken?

double post



the actuator tested good before it was reinstalled in the vehicle.

defending a car that isnt even his anymore. thats love i tell ya

unless flapper door is stuck closed ? i dunno gotta take it apart and find out

you should just be able to unclip the actuator arm and move the flapper lever to determine wether or not its stuck.