Hey all, anyone got any ideas why my rear rotor injectors aren't opening?

Personally, I think its the ECU.



I say this cuz I checked the wiring harness and it has continuity. All the way from the injector plugs to the ECU connectors. But I am absolutely sure the reason my POS S5 hybrid isn't running right is because the rear rotor isn't getting any damn gas!



I took it out on the turnpike the other night, just to drive it, then came home pulled all the plugs and lo and behold the rear leading and trailing plugs are as clean as a whistle, minus a little oil. Next test was to completely pull the rear plug wires to make sure they have spark. Yup, they sparked like mad. So, my conclusion is the ECU is crap. What a waste of $200.



Now here's my usual list of "I don't know what the hell is going on!" questions. Answer if you want, please.

Does anyone repair ECU's? What kind of damage can I cause to the engine running it on one rotor alone? Does this make any sense to anybody? Can I run the car with a NA ECU? Does anyone have a spare N370 ECU that actually works?



Thanks

Mike

N/A Ecu won't work.... i had a spare n370 from my car but i sold it two months ago....... i have a panspeed light sport tuned ecu that might be for sale soon https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

we had a problem like that and it was primary injector not plugged in firmly. if u had a noid light u can plug it in harness and run eng for a min- if it lites up u know ecm is working. i`ve seen them on snap on tool truck. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/mellow.png

What's it called? A "noid" light? Can I find one of those anywhere or just from Snap-on? Anybody know of another way to test to see if the ECU is telling the injectors to open?



I checked the ECU codes but they aren't telling me anything. I was wondering if I could just switch the turbo mother board to a known working circuit board. What I mean is, there are two main circuit boards inside the ECU, I'd pull the turbo circuit board w/ all the eeprom chips on it then take a known worknig NA ECU and pull the NA eeprom board, replacing it with the turbo eeprom board. The thought being that only the eeprom circuit board is specific to the model of car and that the other circuit board is generic or the same no matter what, NA or turbo. I know that is a big assumption, but I really don't want to have to buy another ECU.



Does this sound like a viable option? I've inspected the Turbo ECU and believe I located some burnt out components on one of the two boards, not the eeprom board. Anyhow thats just a thought.

i couldn't give you an answer.... never heard of that

Heh, desperate times call for desperate assumptions or something like that.

i think it goes desperate measures. if i get my other ecu. you can buy my panspeed LOL

Ack! There's that word "buy" again :( Do you offer a "layaway" plan https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

Ack! There's that word "buy" again :( Do you offer a "layaway" plan https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...[/quote]

no sorry. use paypal and use a credit card LOL

ok. i could just be spouting nonsense here..... but are you sure your FCD is working correctly? doesn't the ECU cut fuel to the rear rotor in overboost situations? maybe the ECU thinks boost is too high?

Yeah, have you tried running without the FCD?

Good point. But, yeah, I've tried it both ways. I've also reset the ECU countless times.

Good point. But, yeah, I've tried it both ways. I've also reset the ECU countless times.[/quote]

You tested the pressure sensor, right?

Good point. But, yeah, I've tried it both ways. I've also reset the ECU countless times.[/quote]

You tested the pressure sensor, right?[/quote]

yeah, the pressure sensor results came out alright

Good point. But, yeah, I've tried it both ways. I've also reset the ECU countless times.[/quote]

You tested the pressure sensor, right?[/quote]

yeah, the pressure sensor results came out alright[/quote]

So all of the injector connections are good? How are the injectors?

Good point. But, yeah, I've tried it both ways. I've also reset the ECU countless times.[/quote]

You tested the pressure sensor, right?[/quote]

yeah, the pressure sensor results came out alright[/quote]

So all of the injector connections are good? How are the injectors?[/quote]

Well, the injectors were cleaned about a month ago. The shop that did the cleaning said they were good. Plus, I've switched the rear injectors to the front rotor and they worked fine while the front injectors did not work once they were installed on the rear rotor.



The injector connectors look good, but even so I pulled the harness and tested the resistance from the injector connectors to the ECU connections. The DMM read about .5 ohms, nothing to worry about I figure. i've even gone as far to check the resistance on the injectors just to make sure they were the proper impedance.



I'm sure you guys remember, I also did a complete check of all the fuel lines/pressure, and I've been through about 3 fuel pumps now to make sure that wasn't the problem.



I tried to test all the little stuff before I looked at the ECU, thats the only thing left that I'm unsure of now. I'll probably do some more fiddling later tonight, though. :unsure:

Damn Mike... have you checked out that crazy Knight Sports FCD yet? lol



Cars still not running right, huh? Damn

the na ecu is only different by 2 pins. it also has a different pressure sensor. if it was my car i would plug in the na ecu and see if you have fuel at the rear rotor



mike

hey keith, I pm'ed you the other day



That FCD is permanently off the car now. I think thats what caused this whole mess.



I'd plug the NA ECU in but I don't have one anymore :(

ok does the injector have 12v on one of the pins? the injectors all get power and the ecu switches the ground.



mike

OK, the readings I got with the rear primary injector unplugged, ignition on. black wire/white stripe leading to injector connector = +12v and light green wire from injector to ECU = 0v.



Now, with the injector plugged into the harness I got a reading of +12v on the light green signal output wire from the ECU to the injector, ignition ON.



While running at idle, the light green signal output wire from the ECU to injector still read +12v w/o any ground time.



In other words my injectors are getting proper voltage, but the ECU is not grounding the rear primary when the car is running, hence no firing.

Sounds like a step in the right direction atleast, Mike. Does the FSM have a good schematic detailing the ECU? Can you pop it out again and look for what you thought had been burned out? You're running the JSPEC ECU, right? I don't remember if there was any difference when we were doing the voltage checks that day in your driveway. How much would it cost you to get your hands on another one?

I've tried to find a schematic for the ECU, but no such luck. I think I located a couple of components burnt out on one of the mother boards. Unfortunately, they aren't just something you can buy at Radio Shack.



I have a theory that only half (one of the two mother boards) the ECU is turbo specific. So when I get some extra cash I'm gonna buy an S5 NA ECU and attempt to replace the burnt components. I just hope the processors in the J-spec ECU aren't bad. Maybe I can have two working ECU's.



However, in the meantime, I just bought an N370 ECU (YAY! A-spec!) from a guy in GA. He was really cool and is sending me the ECU before he gets payment. So I'll be throwing that in the car ASAP. Thanks Mark!



I also ordered the components to build the Paul Stoaks FCD from Jameco yesterday. I think I'm going to avoid the mass-produced FCD for awhile, those things are the devil!



BTW, hows the T2 coming along Keith? I must admit that is one sweet car. That car is in such good shape internally. The suspension is incredibly tight for a 14 yr old car. That thing is gonna be badass someday. Not that it isn't already. B) Too bad you moved when you did, the DFW guys are trying to organize a meet at Turner Falls in a few weeks. There are supposed to be like 15-16 2nd gens there.

Mike (OKIERX-7):

Dude, right now the T2 is just sitting. I haven't had time to mess with it since I moved, which so far has come outta my pocket ($2000). I have some plans as soon as I get that money back from the AF, but until then...



I have started putting a plan together, though. A shop my G-pa knows is gonna paint the car for cost of materials and I get to help. I'm going to piece together my own exhaust system (Downpipe, Random Tech Cat, Piping, and Mufflers) and get it welded up. I don't think I'm gonna have time to re-build the engine myself (school's ALREADY started)... so I think I'm going to have it re-built ( https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR ). Don't know if I have any other options. I was gonna go the JSPEC route, but that would take extra time (installing and fine tuning). Dunno man...



Hey your sig says NPR FMIC... did you get another one and have you installed it? I need to pull mine outta storage and work on polishing it. I've been doing some searching and I might get the end-tanks rebuilt so I don't have to do as MUCH hacking to get her in there. Will we see a pressure drop if we're running a small NPR? Mosts posts on these things only mention a drop with the large one :unsure:

Nah, I just haven't bothered to update that sig recently. I'd planned on getting another one in the future so I just left it. How do you like my sig now? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



Anyhoo, I believe the pressure drop is something like .5 psi for the S5 turbo, but I'm not sure if its the same for the S4 turbos. I would think it all depends on the shape your turbo is in as well. I've heard from people I sold those to, that increased lag is the most noticeable drawback. An upgraded compressor wheel would solve that pretty quick.



I just hope this ECU I bought solves my problems.

No emissions? You lucky dog! I've got to plan all my mods AROUND emissions.... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

i think its your ecu too. if its something like an injector driver than you should be able to take it from another ecu and make your work



mike

Agreed. I'm really excited about the prospect of repairing this N374 ECU and having a spare. But I'm getting the extra ECU just in case.