i just did swap in my 87 turbo II. i replaced it with j-spec engine. i got it started but it runs very rough.i think it is running on one rotor. compression is good. i dont think that rear rotor is getting fuel. (this was original problem with my old motor) > after i get it hot it is very hard to get it started again. plugs get soaked with fuel( only front rotor though-rear rotor plugs are ok). also it revs really slow and when it gets to higher rpm starts to pop. it runs rich too. cant run it in garage thats how bad it is. i'm stuck guys i dont know where to turn anymore. i dont know if is any selenoids/sensors to cut the fuel to the rear rotor or what. anyone have any ideas please let me know.

thank you very much



(i removed the air pump and pluged the acv.

all the vacum lines are pluged in and i gotta block-off plate for acv)

Sounds like your injector harness is not properly connected and the rear injector is not firing. Sometimes the metal clip inside the injector cuppling backs up and no contact with the injector is made.

Hopefully it's not a bad injector. I had a set of those and mine barely ran and wouldn't rev at all. Swapped the injectors and it was fine.



If the rotor is flooded... try pulling the spark plug wire away from the plug a good amount (do this while it is running)... or someone cranking the engine. This will cause a flooded plug to fire. I had to do this also to get my car running after it sat for some time.

did you reuse your wiring harness?



mike

I second that..I could have sworn I had both plugged in perfect...finally...I saw what was happening...damn clips..... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Are there wiring differences between the Japanese motor and the American motor?

what i did discover today that when i sprayed some carb clean into the vacum line that is located on the plenum(that line leads to the rear rotor intake chamber) engine will run fine. so for sure i'm not getting any fuel to the back rotor. so when i spray carb clean i'm feeding it with fuel and the engine is running good.



I had to use my old injectors because my wiring harnes injector plugs are differnt from the jspec injector



now i have 4 jspec injectors and i found some conectors that would fit perfect. can i just cut my old conectors and solder the ones for the j-spec injectors so that i will be able to use them????

and one more thing ,can you guys tell me when secondary injectors should kick in.

what rpm range.

I don't see why not.. 3800rpms the secondaries come on..

Are there wiring differences between the Japanese motor and the American motor? [/quote]

they dont have the solenoids on the acv, the aws valve or egr, but i think he might have a bad harness



mike

IT RUNS GUYS https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif I got it to run. It was a fuel pump/injectors regulator. The thing was fried. I got a used one and it works. But...............



There is always but......now my idle is 1300rpm and it will not come down. I can’t adjust it either. I did remove air pump and plugged the ACV so I don’t know it that has to do with anything. Also its hard to get it started after is wormed up. I had to wait to cool down and then it would start. I replaced the air temp sensor and now it will start after 5 or six attempts

not a fuel pump/fuel injections regulator. its called resisitor --sorry guys

You mean that same resistor I was asking about?The one that could tell me if my drivelines is a early T2 or later 87 T2 setup?Congrats on getting it running.Glad I could help you on it.As for your idle you can adjust the idle screw at the throttle body.



Luis

hello again,



i am having trouble with idle now. i cant get it to come down from 1100 rpm.



I tryed adjusting it at the throtlle body and and at the idle air control selenoid(on the side of intake) and it doesnt work.

also now whe car is cold idle flactuate up and down untill it gets warm, then its fine.



after car is wormed up and i shut it off it has difficulty starting again. i did change air temp sensor and did not do much so..... what do you guys think ---let me know



thanks

hey i had a similar problem with mine couldn't get it to come don't with anything i tried ( old throttle body on new engine)



was getting pissed off ... finaly in a state of driveway madness i punched the throttle body and it clicked down to 750 idle...

took the throttle body off gave it some wd40 and never had that problem since..

its possible that the thermowax (the thing thats gives you a fast idle when its cold) it either sticking or has air in it. the idle fluctuations sound like tps, it needs to be adjusted hot



mike

hey Luis-i got more questions for you.

since you mentioned to me to get a secondary injectors from 85 se(680cc) would you have any idea where i can get those.



and if i do get them, i guess they will fit into my secondary fuel rail without any modifications????





thanks again Luis !!!!