I was talking to a guy at a mazda dealership, and he says it would be cheaper considering the 200 dollar tranny deals (nopistons) and stuff. I'm just wondering which would be better/safer. I don't wanna blow this engine, cause this is my DD. I just want a lil' boost over the competition (5 psi).....Which one should I do? If you also have suggestions and price ranges, that would be greatly appreciated. My engine blew a bunch of internal seals, so my coolant is in my oil, my oil is in my gas, etc. The engine is blown. So I need a new one anyways. 13b, and start the turbo process, or just go with the t2 engine. Doesn't the t2 engine come with the turbo/intercooler and harness/ecu etc.? Please help me with this mess. I'm in kind of a time crunch.

just spray a wet shot at it

Why bother putting a new 13B in it then turbo'ing it? If you are going to swap out the motor, go with a T2 motor. You can always run it on the N/A driveline until you can afford to purchase the rear, driveshaft, and tranny. Just don't beat on it.

I'm getting the tranny relatively soon (in about 3 weeks). You really think the 13bt won't split my diff if I run it at like 3-5 psi? I don't wanna hurt my baby. Also, what does a used J-spec engine come with? Do I hafta buy da ecu and harness and stuff, or does it come with it? I wanna put my ducks in a row before I blow any money on this...... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png

didn't mean to post *****, but what "rear stuff" do I need? The T2 diff? I have a GXL diff, (I have a base 7 with a GXL parts car). I want to know EVERYTHING I need.....

You need the motor, downpipe, ecu, engine harness, transmission, driveshaft, and differential. I think you need the T2 axles aslo. Your N/A driveline should be OK as long as you are running low boost and not beating on it. Keep in mind, you cannot just swap in the transmission with either swappping in the T2 diff and drive shaft or having a custom driveshaft made.

A guy on here boosted his n/a motor and split his rear diff. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

put a 6 port bck in then turbo it.. its cheaper then doing a a t2 swap and youll get way more power at 5 psi then a stock t2 swap. i did this with mine and i like it much better then a stock t2 set up. it gets up for 5 psi.. a lot of people will argue with me that a t2 is better when not even experiencing a turbo 6 port. and mine is reliable..its my daily driver too.. if you have any questions about me PM me or post it in here

im sure that guy was pushing a lot more hp then 5psi though also. im running 5 psi and ive had mine for a little more then 2 months and everything is holdin up fine so far.. the only thing that went bad was the diff mount. and i just had it welded solid

How do you figure that?

cause i have one.. lol. and its been running better then any rx-7 ive ever had.. and faster..

How long has this car been running?

turbo the 6port, that's what i'm doing. just be careful with the tuning

A little over two months. to me its better to just turbo the 6 port. you wont hurt anything at 5psi and with the right turbo set up and tuning be well above 200 hp to the wheels. my set up costed me about.. 1500-1700. what kinda t2 swap can you do with that and have over 200hp to the wheels? if you where you can get the parts for that cheap lemme know.

My point exactly; the car has been running for only 2 months. A friend of mine ran his stock t2 at 14psi/17psi for 2 months! Sure he thought it was fine and still does. He blew the motor.

Who wants to run just 5psi/200rwhp...

the guy that posted this wants to run 5psi. did you not read the whole post? oh well.. its all based on opinion and my opinion any day is that a 6 port turbo to me is worth it over a t2 swap. and nothin or no one will change my mind about that. becuase i know how my car runs compared to a car with a t2 swap in a car. and mine runs a lot better and a lot stronger at even 2psi less boost. im getting a haltech in about 1 week that way i can play around with the boost a little more.

I'm that one that has posted pics of a split diff from boosting a 6 port. I definitely saw more than 5 psi when it did that! I modified an S4 TII intake to have 6 ports at the flange by welding and then remachining it. I used the starion front mount intercooler, and all of the exhaust manifolds and turbo from a j-spec S5 a friend bought. I have an RB presilencer and 65mm HKS mufflers - no cat.



With this setup I had an AWFUL boost curve. At 5000rpms I could see as much as 13psi (I programmed it to cut fuel at 12.5) with the wastegate (stock, unported) open and by 6000rpms the boost was dropping down to about 7psi.



I ended up blowing a water seal, not to mention wearing out my rotor housings from them moving against the side housings.



So, I pulled all the turbo stuff off, built a large streetport engine, and installed it with all the original S5 NA fuel injection to see what normally aspirated fun I could have. I swore I wouldn't play with boost again....



I have almost enough mileage on the car for my first oil change and I'm already thinking about turbo'ing again! It pulls good NA, but boost is so much better!!! I would like to find a better matched turbo so I can maintain a constant 7 or 8 psi over the usefull operating range. As long as I keep the boost down it's gotta be ok... Those 12.5 - 13 psi spikes were hard on everything!!!



Jason

what kind of Fuel computer were you using? or are you using? I plan on putting mine up to 10psi for everyday and around 12-14 psi when I really wanna go fast. Ill be using a haltech

Fatazzgxl, please give me (email at kornmanxxx) or post in here ALL of the parts you bought, brand name, and approx. price. I would really like to compare. Because remember, my engine's toast, which means I have to buy a new engine anyways, and the T2 engine is only 200 more than the n/a. Just my opinion, and I'm not knocking yours, I just need all info to correctly evaluate the situation. Thank you for all of your posts, keep 'em coming!

kornmanxxx is that your AIM name or what? im on AIM right now. lemme know and ill PM you right now

just remember that when it comes to porting.. porting 4 ports is way better than porting 6 ports... and if doing a 6 port turbo was so good,, why didnt mazda do it.. to me its a waste of time...4 port has always been the standard when it comes to making power, if u ask me.. i would buy a whole junked t2 with a good drivetrain and work ur way up.. or buy a jspec.. it usually comes wit ecu and tranny... and personally i think u would be more happier when a 4 port.. just my opinion tho

If you have the option, I would do the turbo swap. There just seems to be a lot less uncertainty, especially for someone who doesn't have a ton of experience with engine swaps and trying new configurations. But that's just me.

kornmanxxx is my YIM name, i'm not on it hardly. The only real way to get a hold of me is to email, or call. My email is kornmanxxx@yahoo.com, and I doubt you'd call, so I won't post my #. hope to hear from you with your ENTIRE list of parts.......thanks d00d........

I'm not trying to start anything with this subject, and it appears revvin gave up the fight also in this thread,but you all should take what people like revvin have to say more to heart then others...



...fastazzgxl, you can't call a setup that has only been running for 2months "reliable"...obviously, I credit any of you who went the route of turboing your 6port, its different...but seriously..you want a cookie or something? Doing a t2 swap is by no means something I recommend to anybody either, but it is a better choice for somebody w/ limited tuning experience. A T2 swap will be able to take a 5+psi spike and not split its dif..and it leaves the option of going bigger later.



When you go standalone on your turbo 6port and you start trying to get more power, your NA driveline will not take the new found power kindly. So you'll probably end up putting a t2 tranny in after the NA one goes out...then a T2 dif when ur NA one splits...after you have finished busting all of your NA parts and replacing them with T2 counterparts...all you'll have left is an NA engine putting out maybe 220whp or so and a driveline built to handle 300+...little overkill dont you think?



In my opinion...if you have an NA that is blown and you like ur car...just put a rebuilt NA engine in..ported if you prefer...and then save up for a T2 later. Its a direct swap, no real tuning needed..and you still end up with a car that makes good power and is fun to drive...turboing the 6port is like iceskating uphill...makes no sense. You want boost, do what Mazda did...go w/ a 4port and better driveline...you want a fun/reliable car...stay NA.



BTW...if you dont think I understand the situation or dont know what i'm talking about...maybe you should have been on the forum when it first started https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

sell a kidney and testicle and buy whatever is to your fancy. you only need one!

just stay N/A it's cheap reliable fun. Well, IMO anyway. Boost is cool, but walking sux.

Where can I sell a kidney? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif



::: Dreams Of 20B FC :::

I'm prolly just going to be buying a TII that's for sale over here. If, that is, he lets it go for 3k... I hope so..........but meh........ https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...closedeyes.gif

If you really want to turbo your car, and your building the engine anyway. Add some turbo rotors instead of the N/A rotors. Then find a manifold combination that will work together, an adequate fuel system, intercooler...



You will still be limited by your driveline, but if your goal is in the area of 200 hp it should be fine. IF, it is all in good shape.



BTW, an LSD and big sticky tires will put more abuse on your stuff.

HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION BATMAN!!! I posted this a LONG time ago... I'm already getting a streetported s5 TII engine, w/ other goodies (haltech, etc.). So wow, I was shocked to see this at the top...

The subject of boosting 9.4 and 9.7 rotors is just crazy! Crazy that some are still against it. What is the differant between pushing 20psi with 8.4 rotor and pushing 15psi on 9.7 rotors. It is the effective compression ratio that one must understand. Rotary internals will handle lots of pressure, it is the tuning that kills these things and the lack of understanding what causes detination.

S5 and S6 turbo rotors are 9.0, that is .4 less then s4 non/turbo rotors. This is nothing!.

I was boosting 20psi with 9.4 rotors, now pushing the same amount of boost with 8.5 rotors. This car "feels" slow, throttle response is not like the 9.4 rotors. I have to push the turbo and intercooler harder now to make the same power compared to the n/a rotors. Next motor will be 9.4 rotors. One of the reasons for using the 8.5 rotors in this motor was becasue the bad information I got from others always saying "you can't boost n/a rotors". Now I know better. Do a search, you will find a few older guys using n/a rotors.

This guys is not building a all out race car, just something with a little more power. <span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>If done right</span>, it will last a very long time.

chuck

What if I just put n/a rotors in my TII block? Wouldn't that be the same, w/o having to do all the other fabbing involved?

It has been over a year since this post. There is a lot more input now that there was then. I have a 91 Turbo N/A (9.7 rotors) running 10lbs. It is impresive! I am using EMS, however my tranny, driveshaft and differencial are still N/A. I DO NOT abuse it on launching! It has been running for 1 yr now.

I WILL NOT run pass 10lbs on pump gas (93). Anything more than 15 lbs would require a higher octane.

Total investment (including rebuilt , turbo & ems) $2400.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/P6190006.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/sta..._port_turbo.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/P7030011.jpg