I was driving around on the strip tonight(not getting on it) and all of a sudden I couldn't put my car in gear. As I was coming to a stop I put the car in nuetral and after I stopped I went to put it back into gear and it wouldn't go. I tried every gear. I shut the car off and put into 1st and restarted it. With the cutch pedal to the floor the car moved. What could this be? Bad clutch? Bad slave? Bad Master? I had a friend of mine get in the car and push on the clutch pedal so I could see if the slave was moving. It did. I'm at a loss on this. I just changed the clutch about 2 months ago. Can anybody help me on this one? I'm not sure where to start. Is there a way to test the slave cylinder? Could it be my tranny? Could I have broken a gear? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

if you can shift the tranny with the engine off its the clutch.

to check the clutch:

check the clutch fluid, if its empty you need a master/slave

if it has fluid, have someone push the clutch and see if the slave moves, if it doesnt it could be the master went...

if it moves fine, you need to pull the tranny...

it could be a seized pilot bearing (you did grease it right?) a broken fork, or pressure plate



mike

i agree with mike..... i hope its not the clutch .... that would suck alot

Thanks for the replies guys. Here's what I've got so far. The master still has all of its fluid. The slave still moves. I greased the pilot bearing really good. If the pilot bearing went wouldn't it squeal like a stuck pig? Is there a way I can check the pressure plate without removing the tranny? When I put in gear it felt like the clutch was trying to hold but couldn't. Could it be the clutch disc? BTW this clutch is about 2 months old. Could it be that the line has air in it and needs to be rebleed? Again thanks for the info.

im no expert on this but if there was air in the line i think you would of had these problems alot sooner than 2 months.

The clutch pedal would loosed feeling also, i think its a bent fork or broken ppl plate. Just bleed the clutch its easy then see if that works then if not(most likely) drop the clutch, there is an inspection plate u could try peeping in( just look at the tranny you will see it)

That's what I thought. ****!!!!!!!!!! I was hoping I wouldn't have to drop the tranny. My friend's garage is full and I can't use it. I don't have a garage of my own, so now I'm gonna have to take it to Mazda. This is gonna get really expensive. I hope Mazda will put in an after market clutch for me. :rant:

You dont have to take your car to Mazda for a clutch, any mechanic or transmission shop can do it, there is nothing special about a clutch job on a RX-7.

Take my friends shop for example, he was doing a clutch on a 911 where you have to drop the engine to do it, he saved the guy a ton of money instead of him bringing it to the Porshe dealer.



If it isnt rotory specific ANY shop can work on these cars.

Did anyone say rear main seal. Oil on the clutch will be bad too.

oil on the clutch will not cause what he's experiencing though, it won't engage if you get oil on it, alot of slipping, my front trans seal leaked and got oil everywhere on the clutch... just slipped a bit and smelled like ass. The rear main leaking would probably have a tough time getting oil on the clutch since it has a counterweight and flywheel in the way.



If your slave is moving normally theres nothing wrong with the hydraulics, try move the fork with your hand (simulate the slave piston motion) if it feels free like theres very little resistance (you shouldnt be able to move it easily) then the fork is either broken/bent, or off the ball it sits on... or the pressure plate fingers are fucked (maybe throwout bearing problem too)...



If you have normal resistance (difficult to move with fingers, if possible at all) then your problem is likely something is stuck between the clutch disc and the pressure plate/flywheel keeping it engaged even when you try to disengage it, or the pilot bearing has seized.



I had this exact thing happen to me, and it was my pilot bearing. When I pulled the trans, needle bearings were found everywhere, in the clutch disk, in the damper springs, they were rolling all over the driveway... just replacing the pilot bearing fixed it... don't over-grease the pilot bearing when you reinstall it, and make sure you use the correct lube, and a pilot bearing seal. you also have to be careful when you install the trans, you can easily damage a new pilot bearing during installation if you force misaligned parts to mesh.

I here you. Like I said before, wouldn't a siezed pilot bearing squeal like a stuck pig? I've heard siezed pilot bearings and they aren't quiet. Anyways I had it towed to Mazda yesterday. Before the tow truck showed up I started it and tried engaging the clutch. It sounded like the pressure plate wasn't getting any pressure applied to it from the throwout bearing. I think my throwout fork is broken.

let us know how it goes

Well so far they've told me thay will get right on it. I think that means like sometime around 5pm this afternoon is when they will start. Lazy buggers. :rant:

dude, 911's are soooooooo hard to work on, we did head studs in one



mike

NO NOT the dealer. National Auto transmissions would do a good job since shorty races 7's in circle track. Also Fains automotive. Damn i hate that Mazda dealer. Bunch of worthless fucks. Telling me i need a cam. RETARDS! Oh and thanks for sending that alternator to me. Didn't have to overnight it though, but none the less i appreciate all your efforts. Let us know what's up. sometimes the fork notches wear out and it tends to pop off on it's own alot. Never to me, but i've heard they're known to do this.

:bigok:

Well Here's the update for today. They called me at 5:30pm saying that they think it might be One of the following: clutch disc(possibly discentigrating(sp)), pressure plate(possible broken diaphram spring), Bad release bearing, bad pilot bearing. Gee this really sound firmiliar. Hasn't somebody said this before. They said it will cost $372 for labor but they won't warranty the parts if I don't buy them from Mazda. I say bullshit. If they put it in and the part is brand new they should warranty it. Fuckers. I'm sure I'll have more to tell you guys tommorow. They should be dropping the tranny and seeing what is tuely wrong. Lazy fuckers had it all day and waited until 5pm to do anything to it. Oh well thats what I get for taking it to Mazda.

shoulda just put it up on jack stands and dropped the trans again, it's not that big of a deal, and dealers are just ****** evil. You need to listen to the song by dead kennedy's; 'trust your mechanic'.... for the cost of this crap, you will have spent probably enough to pay for most of the RB aluminum flywheel https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Unfortunately I have niether the time or space to work on my car. I just estimated the cost at about $800. Thats parts and labor.

your in TX. why not take it to marvelspeed or rotary performance ??

It's atleast a 2hour drive from meto get to RP. Then maybe if I got an appointment for sometime this year i might take it to them. Then only if I could drive it there. Tow job to Garland from here costs like $500.

I still way you should have just went to a tranny shop of your good ole' neighboorhood mechanic.

Yeah I know but it's too late. I wasn't thinking right. I should've done some calling around. Probably would've been cheaper. The other thing is that I really didn't have the time to check around and see who could give me the best deal. Ican't get time off of work right now or I'd do it myself or would've atleast called around to get a better deal.

http://www.marvelspeed.com heard good things abotu them too https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Thanks for the link. I wasn't aware he had a website. A friend of a friend just had his fd motor rebuilt by him. I heard he did a really good job. I have yet to see it though.

Update: Mazda has finished pulling everything off and says it's the pilot bearing. I guess I didn't lube it well enough. That's pilot bearing #3. 1st one I messed up by not seating it far enough, 2nd one (this one) must not have lubed it well enough, and now the one that's almost costing me $400. Wow I think that's the most expensive pilot bearing I've ever paid for. Iguess that's what I get for going to the dealer. BTW to tell if your pilot bearing isn't lubed well enough or is going out on you it will make a sound like 2 pieces of sandpaper rubbing together. When you push in the clutch pedal the loudness of the sound will decrease. If you have this sound emitting from your car then go change your bearing before it's too late. Trust me you do want the $400 pilot bearing like mine. Thanks for all the help and support guys.

sounds like a bad slave... i had the exact same problem with my car.. it turned out to be the slave.. if you keep bleeding it you will get by for a lil bit but thats just a band aid.. replace the slave and you will be trouble free..

Dave

glad you got it figured out. :bigthumg: a lesson for all.