what has to be done to turn a TII into n/a. can i just swap the ECU and put headers. or will that cause problems?



i have a turbo II motor and wanna make a n/a drift project.



if you wanna blast me for dropping the turbo. dont bother commenting. just because its not what you "believe" to be a fast, or great car project. dosnt mean its not a good idea.

Okay, I won't blast you, but I'm curious to know what you've got against the turbo?



My understanding is that the T2 motor is a 4-port design and runs low compression rotors and would be an absolute dog without boost. If you want an n/a motor, get an n/a motor.

all you have to do is put a header on it, and run the afm to the throttlebody. prepare for slow....

you could just do what was said above, and it would run, but not well. You have an 8.0 or 8.4 compression ratio (IIRC), and lower flow characteristics. Even if you rebuilt it with S5 NA rotors, you will still be choking the motor at higher RPMs with the lack of exhaust port area. If you want to do this, my rec is to just buy an NA motor, they're cheap enough. Hell, ill trade you mine for your turbo motor, just to do you a favor https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

acctually...4 port motors create more power. compared to n/a six ports. i plan on swapping in s5 n/a rotors. 9.7 comp. and the s4 comp. ratio is 8.5. s5 is 9.0. for turbo motors. but until the rebuild...i wanna just run it n/a. yes....it will be slow still.



i have nothing against turbos. i have a 93 fd wich i would never go n/a on. but i want an n/a drift fc. mainly for reliability. from what i have experienced n/a's are much more reliable. especially at high RPM's.



also..many people have made 260+ n/a with 9.7 rotors, street port, with TII motor. tuning...all in the tuning. not bad in my book though. any one here built an n/a 13B. im open for unbiest tips and info.

yah the 4 ports are better than the 6 ports, but you're looking at 180-200hp with the stock intake manifolds, the turbo will do that stock......



na fc's do drift, but it takes more skill, and the engine should be a little more reliable na, but not a lot

Once you build up a N/A to that level, it kinda loses most of its reliability quality over the turbo. I'd depend on a 300hp turbo II before I'd depend on a 250hp N/A if both are properly tuned...

Oh really? how big are the exhaust ports on the TII compared to the combined area of the exhaust +5th & 6th ports? didnt know that...



and i dunno where i pulled those compression ratios from, bad memory i guess

4 port and 6 port is directed towards the amount of intake ports not exhaust. also, as far as i know (might be wrong) the TII rotor housings have larger exhaust ports.



and yes i know TII make an easy 200. yes its still reliable. but...the feel of all-rotor is appealing to me. plus. no worries of boost spike and blowing a seal. no ball bearinging shreading and tearing up the motor. no turbo lag. broader power band. and less expspence. no turbo, front mount, blowoff valve, turbo manifold, wasegate.ect. ect... no, i dont need these. but why build a motor and keep stock units.



also...250+ is very reliable with the help of R.A apex seals. and other choice internals.



question j9fd3s...you said "180-200 HP with stock intake manifolds" I planned on using TII LIM. and FD UIP. 50% more slow. supposedly. do you know where to get aftermarket intake manifolds? or individual throttlebodys? i dont like carbs. tuning isnt as precise. thanks...

ra apex seals are "choice" internals???? you will spend 3X as much making the n/a half as fast and just as unreliable...... if you build a t2 right you can do it for less than making a 200whp n/a you can be just as reliable and make 300+