I've always ran the stock thermostats in my 7's, the vert I just bought must have a 120 degree one in it, it won't produce any heat and the guage never moves over 1/4.



Any reason to run a cooler stat in the Florida climate? I mean as far as I can tell at 1/4 temp it really isn't reaching full temp, which is not necessarily good. I am running stock rad, stock fan and belly pan is intact.

maybe the thermostat is bad and thats why it wont get up to temp?

my stock gauge used to only go up to 1/4, but I know it runs anywhere from 160-180.

Yea but this thing isn't putting out any heat at all.



It could be bad, but the guy replaced the thermostat, hoses, radiator caps, etc... when he rebuilt the engine, 2,000 miles ago. I've got reciepts and it's obvious the caps are new. I've got a pressure tester, I guess I could throw it on and see where the thermostat opens, or I could just replace it and not worry about it.

you sure your logicon is functioning properly? My temp sits at 1/4 with the new mazda t-stat.

The hear gets warm, just nothing like my AE. It's not warm enough by any means.

Well iwas just looking in my Victoriabritish catelog and there were 3 different types of t-stats, one for winter, a standard, and a summer, maybe you have the summer. Maybe its not hot enough out for the summer one to heat up ur car to normal operating temps. Is this possible?

get a thermostat from the dealer, with gasket its like $11

Hmm, well i figured that one out, apparently when they dropped the motor in they decided to cap off the upper heater house where it comes out of the firewall. Gonna have to fix that.

they only capped one hose?

hopefully the heater core is good

It makes me wonder too, why just cap it off @ the block? And why was the return side not capped off? Running the stock molded hose from the block to the inlet tube to the heater core isn't a necessity, it can be done with generic heater hose, but it has to be long enough not to kink.

Yea the heater core is good, one side is all that's capped off as far as I can tell, so the core is pressurized, really not sure why they did it, figure I will hook up the other side and see what's up.

maybe its cause the one hose is $50?

Yea they prolly just figured it's florida so **** it.

Do I need to take the intake manifold off to replace that bitch?

FSM shows it snaking around to the drivers side of the engine.



Could have sworn the T2 went under the IC somewhere.

No, it's a little tight but it will go without removing much at all.

your in florida...and you want the heater to work.



wow.



kevin.

I use the heater in florida about 1 time a year. But its worth keeping cuase when you do need it, its ******* cold!

in a convertible you need the heat more



its nice to drive with the top down on a 60 degree night with some heat going.

exactly, plus 10 on the temp lol

i think i can just put in on in an na, no removing of anything

right, I just unplug the sensor from the manifold (S5), and prop the hydro line for the clutch to one side, the lower connection into the rear plate is easier, just loosen the clamp.

i remember the car is blue, but thats about it, lol

I checked it out last night, figured it out, should be easy enough to do with the NA.

woop, forgot it was a vert, my bad. heat + vert does = goodness.



kevin.