I've always ran the stock thermostats in my 7's, the vert I just bought must have a 120 degree one in it, it won't produce any heat and the guage never moves over 1/4.



Any reason to run a cooler stat in the Florida climate? I mean as far as I can tell at 1/4 temp it really isn't reaching full temp, which is not necessarily good. I am running stock rad, stock fan and belly pan is intact.

maybe the thermostat is bad and thats why it wont get up to temp?

my stock gauge used to only go up to 1/4, but I know it runs anywhere from 160-180.

Yea but this thing isn't putting out any heat at all.



It could be bad, but the guy replaced the thermostat, hoses, radiator caps, etc... when he rebuilt the engine, 2,000 miles ago. I've got reciepts and it's obvious the caps are new. I've got a pressure tester, I guess I could throw it on and see where the thermostat opens, or I could just replace it and not worry about it.

you sure your logicon is functioning properly? My temp sits at 1/4 with the new mazda t-stat.

The hear gets warm, just nothing like my AE. It's not warm enough by any means.

Well iwas just looking in my Victoriabritish catelog and there were 3 different types of t-stats, one for winter, a standard, and a summer, maybe you have the summer. Maybe its not hot enough out for the summer one to heat up ur car to normal operating temps. Is this possible?

get a thermostat from the dealer, with gasket its like $11

Hmm, well i figured that one out, apparently when they dropped the motor in they decided to cap off the upper heater house where it comes out of the firewall. Gonna have to fix that.

they only capped one hose?

hopefully the heater core is good

It makes me wonder too, why just cap it off @ the block? And why was the return side not capped off? Running the stock molded hose from the block to the inlet tube to the heater core isn't a necessity, it can be done with generic heater hose, but it has to be long enough not to kink.